Welcome Rick Nice truck, I’m sure you’re aware of Bluewater or Can Am shipping in Port Huron to order parts delivered there to save brokerage fees? I live up the road in Komoka and will start making more trips soon. Just getting back at my project again.
Speaking of bumpers, and not that it matters much in the grand scheme of the universe, but were you aware that the 1-ton bumpers are different from the 1/2-ton and 3/4 ton bumpers? They are thicker steel, for one. And the bolt holes may not be exactly the same, either. I had a really hard time getting bumpers on my truck until I figured this out (I had 1/2-ton bumpers). Once I was able to trade for some real 1-ton bumpers, they went on without any fuss. Just more to ponder ...
If it helps, here's a picture of my rear bumper. Hopefully you can see how thick it is. The 1/2 and 3/4-ton trucks' bumpers are noticeably thinner.
John
Last edited by John Milliman; 02/05/20201:27 PM. Reason: added photo
~ John
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
1948 International Farmall Super A 1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
I second John’s info. Same with my one ton. 1 ton bumpers are heavier.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
I have a 51 1-ton and put a half-ton bumper in place of the rusty 1-ton unit for about ten years until I got some extra money and had the 1-ton bumper rechromed. Either one fit the same holes in the brackets, though IIRC they are slotted on mine.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
About the Wheels: It will drive a whole lot better with the factory offset (or close to it) on the front wheels. There are 0 offset trailer wheels that work well enough, though they are a little more offset outboard than stock wheels. I'm presently running those. I have used 16" Ford steel wheels and they steer OK. Later Chev 16" wheels will not work as the edge of the rim hits the steering arm so the wheel will not turn freely until it wears a groove in the steering arm. Not good. Factory 17" wheels are the best but your choice of tires is very limited.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
I'm referring to the 51 wheels. There are at least two offsets. I have two of them. One set came from my 51 1-ton, the other I bought loose just for the tires and they are identical to the 51 wheels except for the offset. They are offset two far inboard and won't fit. I don't know when they changed design. My long-ago landlord had a 58 1-ton with 17-inch wheels but they l looked different than mine as I recall.
The originals had an inboard offset of 9/16 as close as I can measure. This offset produced "center-point steering," which was easier on the arms. The zero-offset trailer wheels work pretty well but the steering is still heavier than stock but the radial tires probably contribute to that.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.