The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop striaght axle flip

I was wondering if any body has ever flipped
the front striaght axle on top of the shackles
or If it would even work?

Wow! I've never even thought about that.

You don't really mean flip the axle, that would be very bad, you just mean bring the current axle to run on top of the springs instead of underneath, right?

I suppose you could make a cradle or spring perch for the bottom of the axle. I think you would find clearance problems galore with the frame. If you go to my web site you can see what monoleaf springs and a 2 1/2 inch mor-drop axle will get you.

I've seen it done.
[img]http://www.oldsub.com/images/2005/08/hot_rod_arama/PIC00024.JPG[/img]
This example had very little room for the axle to move. I would not expect to be satisfied with the ride.

My 48 had the axle flipped on top of the springs when I bought it. The draglink would bind against the tierod when I would turn and there was less than an inch of clearance between the axle and the oil pan. I scrapped the whole setup and had the stock axle dropped 4 inches and put it back under the springs where it belongs. It sits nice and the suspension travel is adequate now.

it works pretty good you have to cut the pitman arm and shorten it a liitle to clear the tie rod and weld a plate to the bottom of the axle with four holes for the u bolts. use good gas shocks and rubber bumpers. the key is there must be oil pan clearance.

Thanks john ever since I posted I have been
measuring and looking I can see IT in my head
just trying to confence my self that it just
might work

John,
How did you cut the pitman arm? I was a little scared to cut mine and weld it back together. I'm a pretty good welder and it just seems a little dangerous to rely on welds for that particular steering component. Shortening the arm would also make it steer harder wouldn't it?

48 Speed Shop...Like I said, I have a 48 that had this set up when I bought it. I saw IT with my own eyes and drove it too. It doesn't work very well.

the picture from old sub looks like it has a lowering block built in that limits travel. regarding cutting the pitman arm use a chop saw and cut it across the middle. cut just enough to clear the tie rod. remember the tie rod moves as the truck bounces. v grove the cut so you can weld the inside together and allow it to cool before you build up the weld. after its welded put a plate on each side of the pitman arm and weld them in for reinforcement. check and see if a 55-59 truck pitman arm will fit i think they might be shorter

i shorter pitman arm will reduce your turning radius. it does not make steering turn harder. remember the best way is to use a dropped axel if you dont want to go independent. i axel flip is a low dollar way but better than removing leaf springs. remember i said it works pretty good.

OldSub's pic looks like a car. Same deal though.

Another alternative to welding two flats is to slip a tube over one side before joining the two. If you have enough room for that. A prettier way, if you don't have enough room to slip the tube, is to split one in half and weld on both halves.