Laying down sound deadening/dampening mats, can work well. A couple of restoration shops in my area, recommended Deimos Deals. They carry, what appears to be the same kind of product that a Dynomat, or other brand name carries, for a fraction of the cost. I purchased and installed it in my 53 3100. It worked really well. Much quieter than before. Know doubt there are a number of other manufactures of similar products. But, they get my vote for a relative inexpensive way to achieve your goal. Here is a link to them.
I replaced the rubber isolators between the cab and cab mounts on my '53. That made a very noticeable difference. Use something like Dynomat everywhere you can hide it - backside of the dash, inside the doors, firewall, floorboard, on the cab behind the gas tank, even stick a piece on the gas tank. I don't recall how the '65 seat mounts in the cab, but if you can isolate the seat from the floor with rubber washers+carpet, etc that will also make a difference. I tried several different carpet pads, sound deadeners jute pads, etc. and found the absolute best thing is a closed cell carpet pad I got from a home carpet supplier. It's a waterproof sound and temperature barrier that works great! I ran it from under my dash all the way back to the gas tank. I then covered that with interior carpet I got from the same place. It's cheaper and heavier than auto carpet. The problem with your truck is you've got lots of flat hard surfaces - dash, doors, windshield, cab roof and even (I'm guessing) a vinyl seat. Not only do these surfaces transmit road, wind, and engine noise into the cab, they also bounce that noise around and aim it at your head. You could modify your truck with a cloth headliner, full door panels, and a cloth seat, or wear earplugs. I'm doing both
In addition, you may benefit from using a spray on undercoating or bedliner on the exterior of the floorboard. Just a thought for something that would be relatively simple.
I haven't done it yet but I have purchased Hushmat. Similar to Dynomat. All the reviews I have read indicate the users had good results. I am in the middle of replacing floor pans. Once that is done I am going to put down the Hushmat and see what happens. It definitely roars right now. Anything will be an improvement.
I used the sound deadening sheets (2 Layers Thick) from LMC beginning just under the jute firewall pad, to under the gas tank. It helped. But there needs to be more, so I am going to get some insulation soon to combat noise and heat. The seat is coming out anyway to cut a big hole in the floor to accommodate the high hump, so why not add more stuff to the floor while I'm at it, right...lol...
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
I used Dynamat over every exterior metal part (inside the cab). Floors, fire wall, behind fuel tank, roof, inside doors, etc. that helped a ton. I decided to use the water heater insulation (bubble wrap with foil on both sides) under the jute padding and I taped it to the floor with the metal tape for duct work. Once I put the carpet/jute down, I can talk to my kids without yelling. Obviously, my truck get hot inside due to Texas heat, but I think it’s just the hot air (maybe my hot air)! The other thing I decided to do was tint my windows with ceramic 70%. This has helped a great deal with heat!
Easy to cut and stick, coated top of cab, under dash cowl, inside of doors, rear of cab and all the floors even under the seat. Results were a world of difference, money well spent.
Last edited by sstock; 08/03/20198:57 PM.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
I insulated and soundproofed much like most are recommending. It definitely dampens the sound. But honestly, I think the biggest reduction in cab noise was the result of sticking the sound barrier to the underside of the hood.
Last edited by DES57; 12/29/20198:05 PM. Reason: Spelling
1957 Chevy 3200 Daily Driver PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights. Follow in the DITY
Man o man...I never thought about adding sound deadening to quiet a noisy cab...I just thought when I was driving an old smelly truck that it should creak and groan and bang when you drove it....I could even hear the tires rolling on the pavement...
I bet that would have made driving my old heap a tad bit more tolerable....never even thought about it ...
Thanks for the insight...
MikeC
Last edited by mikec4193; 12/30/20193:50 PM.
1951 Chevy 3800 1-Ton Howard Knapp In the Stovebolt Gallery 1948 Chevy 1-Ton (sold Nov 2017) 1953 Chevy 1-Ton (sold 10/1/2016)
I added dynamat to everything metal that would create sound. After that, I added the bubble wrap with tin foil from Lowe’s and put my carpet over that. That quieted my cab a lot and I finally put ceramic tint on all windows to deflect the heat! What an amazing difference.
I use peal and seal self stick roofing from Lowes. a lot cheaper than sound deadener.
Water proof and flexible. This is the stuff used under roofing.
Most of the stuff is black but I had some that was foil backed that I put in my Beetle and it made a huge difference. I just cleaned floor and stuck it down. Then used heat gun to work it into grooves and dips. Put underlayment over that and carpet on top. What a huge difference it made.
I used Fatmat in a small section. Then bought this from Lowes. It is the exact same stuff without the high price. No Smells ect. Worked great! Was a Night & Day difference. Inside doors, floor, gas tank.ect...
//// I can hear my 1950 AM radio Truckernix fixed for me !
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
I used the peel and seal in my '49. I now want a radio since I will probably be able to hear one now.
I put a RetroSound Laguna radio in my 49 and it fit really well. I haven't got it wired up yet as I have to much wind noise coming in. Waiting on the weather to warm up before I install the SoftSeal.
Mass loaded vinyl is what I want someday... it would be interesting to hear if anyone here has tried it?
Not MLV, but several years ago several folks in the Dodge diesel world were using sheet lead to line the floor and firewall and covering it with peel and stick from the big box stores. Sheet lead is rated at lbs per sq. foot and with a Dodge Cummins truck that bit of extra weight is pretty insufficient. As I recall the results were very good at quieting the Cummins. I suspect it'd work well in our trucks in the floor and on the firewall with the same peel and stick on top.
If you put sheet lead in your truck in CA, it would be classified as a hazardous site. Of course everything else in CA is hazardous to your health.
Anything that adds mass to the component will work. Even a blob of tar or undercoating that changes the natural frequency of the component would help, with varying results.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
