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| | | Forums66 Topics128,101 Posts1,056,179 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | Did a thorough wash and rinse then applied NuFinish according to the directions. Buffed off the haze as the instructions said. Ended up with a dull hazy but smooth finish that will not polish out by hand or with a power buffer. The paint is old but did not have a rough finish and was smooth to the touch prior to and after the application of NuFinish. What is the recommended procedure for removing the product and returning to the unwaxed state. Thanks
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,362 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,362 | If me I’d try carnauba wax (Mother’s) on a small area over the NuFnish. I’ve used NuFnish long ago and don’t recall any issues. It’s silicon based?
A good cut/buff will do a world of good if the right person does it. Good Luck RonR
RonR
1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear 1970 340 Duster 1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain) 1964 CJ5
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | It does not seem to be silicone based: "Calcined flint clay" It looks like it is silicon based. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,989 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,989 | PPG Wax and Grease remover.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 38 | Ditto the use of a wax and grease remover (I also splashed some on my daughters highly polished, red, fender when cleaning years of accumulated grime on her hood underside and it completed stripped the wax down to the dull red finish prior to the car being detailed before she bought it. You might try it on a spot to see if it works. It was on the fender for 15 minutes or so and I did not touch it.) It sounds like the finish was oxidized when you initially waxed and it seems as though most car waxes today are "clear coat safe" meaning pretty mild at removing oxidation. Imagine you will need to use a polish/cleaner product to remove the oxidation (or buff the finish out completely) and then use NuFinish, carnauba, etc to enhance your new shine. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | As a follow up, I used wax/grease remover and it barely loosened anything. Granted I did not let it soak the surface. Tried Maguires Ultimate Compound and it removed the NuFinish but still left a slight hazy look to the paint. Afraid a cut and buff is in my future. Thanks for the ideas.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
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