The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop How to "Cheaply" install a LS series engine

It's generally acknowledged that the expense of any engine conversion is directly related to the skills of the converter. Welding skills, fabrication skills, well equipped shop or driveway/shadetree work area and so on are huge factors. All that said, anyone able to contribute to a "Cheap" recipe to install a 4.8, 5.3 or LS engine in a AD truck? Questions right off the top is how much (or little) would it cost if one made the conversion with a modern transmission with overdrive.

Do you buy a donor vehicle and use all the appropriate parts, selling the rest to recoup some of your money?

Buy just the engine and other hard parts from a recycler with a warranty?

Pare down the factory wiring harness or buy a ready to install harness?

What year and platform (donor) makes the best, easiest, cheapest engine upgrade without worrying about max hp.

The above is just a primer and hopefully this thread will provide some of the answers for those of us with no hands on experience with GM's more modern, easy horsepower, high mpg engines.

Added in edit; I'm not planning to make the subject change to my '51 3600 since it's a pretty original truck and a as yet untested 261 is waiting in the wings. But if a pretty straight, original truck came along then a LS conversion would definitely be a possibility. Also I personally like the old school designations of 283LS for the 4.8LS and 327 for the 5.3, then 350LS for the 5.7 LS1. Just sounds right.

RonR

Just my thoughts on this. A donor vehicle might be the better choice as you would have all of the wiring and brackets to aid in the conversion. I would seek out some of your local LS builder for the build of the wiring harness. Here locally I have access to a Tuner that builds harnesses, he will custom build you a harness for your needs for $400.00. The first series (2000 - 2005 or so) LS trucks are becoming cheaper most had the 5.3L. I have seen pickups and Tahoe's selling locally for under $2000.00. It all comes down to how much work you are wanting to put into the project. Barnfind49 would be a great resource on this topic.

Ron, you bring up some good points.
Point #1.... Buy a donor and resell the leftovers.
This approach works fine if you have the space and are not at the mercy of a hostile HOA.
Point #2.... Buy from a recycler.
Do your homework on the particular recycler. Make sure you get all the associated parts.
Point #3.... New or build harness.
Depends on you or your buddies skills. Of course modifying the existing harness would be the cheapest.
Point #4.... Which engine is best.
Go with what you know. Venture into the unknown if you have knowledgeable friends who are willing to get their hands dirty.

I did the 350/700R4 on my ‘62 C-10. Had the engine built cost $3500. Transmission was a recycle special and as installed cost $200. New driveshaft was $150 with new ujoints. P/S and P/B conversion was another $900. New 4 row aluminum radiator was $220 w/new hoses. Total expense when finished was a bit over $6000. I did everything except build the engine and driveshaft. Took a year to complete.

Ok this is pretty much my specialty.
1st question is what are your goals?
Just a dependable daily driver? Hot rod with 500hp? Turbo setup with 800hp? Do you want to stay manual or auto trans?
2nd question is will you do it all yourself?

I put these motors in literally everything. I know how to do it cheap or ive had guys that cant sleep without bling bling polished custom parts that work like crap. Its totally up to you.

This is my example.... my 49 GMC 150 has a $400 5.3 i bought complete from a junkyard shelf. It had everything from the intake to pan and came with the harness still on the motor with the ECU still plugged in. I used $100 universal weld in mounts, stock tank feeding a MSD in line pump ($100), used all stock harness that I modified myself and built a custom fuse/relay box ($20), I own HP tuners software so i flashed the stock ECU myself just to turn off anti theft. I needed to use ls1 style camaro exhaust manifolds to clear the frame/steering box and i think i paid $125 for the used set.

So all in all i had a running swap for about $750-800.
Now mind you this is hooked up to a stock 1949 3 speed trans with column shift. Only parts you need to fit a LS onto the older trans is a v8 truck bellhousing and a deep pilot bushing. It runs and drives like a dream. There are obviously other add ons like gauge adapters, radiator, and heater core and things like that but it’s honestly not bad if your creative and can do the work yourself. My motor has 140k on it and it still has the original spark plugs and wires on it. Runs like a champ and i drive it almost daily with no issues.

Wait, WHAT?? Doesn't each chromed piece add 10 HP?

More like polished stainless manifolds that melt plugwires on the regular when stock manifolds fit perfect 🤷‍♂️ Or when they buy $100 custom welded coolant resivours when the stock stuff from the truck will work perfect for free. I just sit back and laugh.......especially when they run out of $$$ and give up and sell everything because they cant finish it.
........ but THEN guys like me and my friends get a great deal for our next swap👍

Ok guys, this is the HiPo Forum, lets keep your custom bashing to yourselves. Everyone is entitled to build it as they see fit, even you.

Barnfind49 said “Ok this is pretty much my specialty.
1st question is what are your goals?Just a dependable daily driver? Hot rod with 500hp? Turbo setup with 800hp? Do you want to stay manual or auto trans? 2nd question is will you do it all yourself?”

Luke, your ‘49 thread is what got me pondering this path. I appreciate your contributions.

I personally would be the stock dependable driver with a overdrive automatic transmission guy. I would do the mechanical work myself. All things electronic (as in tuning or making digital components happy) would be farmed out.

My guess is the description above applies to many on the’Bolt.

What did you use for rear end and drive shaft?

You know you can polish top of the line race parts too. My oil pump was $3300 but it sure polished up nice. Everybody knows shiney parts are more aerodynamic and there is the chicks dig it thing.

I used the stock 3/4 rear (HO52) and stock driveshaft. Its all 100% stock from the transmission flange back.

Just wondering out loud here. I'd think you'd need the accelerator pedal assembly or are workarounds available.

I modified the stock pedal to pull a cable from a simple mount off the firewall. Looks all 100% stock.

Do you have a picture of that modification? It sounds neat.

Obviously my learning curve is straight up here. Due to loosely following LS conversions on a couple of V8 Miata forums I thought all LS series engines were drive by wire and required the original accelerator pedal assembly.

Found this which May help my understanding.

RonR

I have to look but i think i have some pics. Earlier setups i think pre 03 were all drive by cable. Newer setups were drive by wire. Some can be converted back to cable too. Either one works well.

Also just gotta be careful what you read in the “LS how to books” many people write them up very closed minded. “You need this said part # kit to make this setup work” when in reality all stock parts with a spacer may work for almost free if your smart enough. A lot of it is just thinking outside the box. Nothing is really a road block to me. Just a speed bump.

Here are a few pics of how i converted the original pedal to pull down on a cable. Sorry one pic is blurry but you get the idea. Its basically a slot cut in the end of the pedal rod where i chopped it. I welded a washer into it and then its just a simple clevis pin hookup. Its super tight to get your hands in there to hook it up but it does work well. That pic looks like a weird angle but after this i did some filing on the clevis and its straight now. Also that’s actually full throttle. I rarely need to use more than 20% throttle at any time. Normal cruise at 55 is probably like 5%.

Interesting, and Great information! I know you mentioned the price for your engine, but what was it original too?

I think it was from a 2001 silverado. They are all the same anyways. No big changes besides little stuff on vans like oil fill tube or dipstick. Dont be too picky about what motor you get. They all act the same. If i sold you a 5.3 and lied to you and it was a 4.8 you would never know it unless you pulled a head and noticed a flat top piston. Even the 6.0 isnt leaps ahead of a 5.3 honestly. I personally own all 3 variations and have had a turbo 4.8 that made great power and currently have a turbo 6.0 that makes a little more power a little earlier.

We do LS, LQ, and LT swaps at an ever increasing rate while the SBC installs have almost come to a halt. Right now we have a 52 3100, 50 Chevy 3100, a 51 Studebaker 1/2T long bed, a 70 Olds Cutlass, a 34 Ford pickup, a 34 Chevy coupe and a 70 Jimmy (Blazer) getting LS or LT engines and a 70 Camaro with a Whipple supercharged LS9. We have done a 1935 Olds LS9 that had the carburetor conversion, a 54 3100 that has the Holley Sniper efi and the 70 Jimmy has the FiTech efi conversion. I agree with Barnfind that the best running one is the all factory LS3 in the 52 3100. Lots of bling on most of the others. I do like how the vented coil covers clean up the appearance.

Running LS swap for $800, that will get your attention. Would it be possible to send a video of it starting, running and driving via PM or if the rules here don't allow I can send my personal email.
I'm assuming you already have one. Many thanks

Barnfind49's Project thread here.
There's a start up vid.

You ask you shall receive....
overview


Driving

Yep, That's a WIN. I'm happy with the 261 swap (engine is just setting in the shop waiting) that's in my trucks future. But, if that wasn't possible, a LS283 (4.8) or LS327 (5.3) would be on the upgrade list.

Excellent job Barnfind and thanks for those videos. Good marriage of old and new on a budget, and you kept the push button start to boot ! At a car show last week a fella had an LS3 swap in a C3 corvette, but he spend about $35K on it, so well done. Good thing is that if you get nostalgic in your older years, you can stuff a 235 back in.

Thanks Allen! Yes a tried to keep it all as original appearing as possible from the outside and from the drivers seat.

As for the 35k motor swap you speak of well thats a very easy thing to add up when you buy a crate LS3 for sticker price then add custom mounts, accessories, and associated hardware and add ons then pay a shop to do it. I have always had more fun with the “less is more” attitude on most of my builds......and that dosent include horsepower numbers but just $$$ and parts. Some people wont believe that you can drop a stock 4.8 or 5.3 from a silverado with 280k on the clock and never even pull the oil pan or heads and go ahead and add some boost and a fuel system and swing for the fences and make 800-1000hp on all stock parts basically and drive around like no big deal. Its been done numerous times. Never underestimate the underdog with nothing to lose hahahaha.

As for going backwards to a stock motor...... sure its totally reversible...... but i will never be the guy to do it. I doubt this truck will ever leave my possession anyways and im only 35yrs young so it should have a very long happy driving life ahead of it as i drive it as much as i can!

You mentioned 327s in your og post, Mine had the swap to a 327 back in 1969. I replaced it with a new one last year. I found a rebuilt 327 with a mild cam and a 100k warranty for $1600 or thereabouts. Mine has a 3 on the tree and an overdrive. I would think going with a rebuilt set up like mine would be cheaper and less work than a modern automatic with overdrive. BTW all that new power and high speed cruising ability, well you better have a real tight and ship shape front end and steering or it will always be an interesting time on the highway at 70. So more money there. Maybe it's just me, but a nice clean 327 just looks right in an old truck.

My truck has a 100% stock front end besides radials. It is tight and alignment is good. No overdrive at the moment because I didn’t swap my old 3 speed with borg warner electric overdrive in yet. Truck will still drive 65-70 on the highway with absolutely no issues. Can have one finger on the wheel and just cruise. The 327 is a good motor but once you go to a newer LS style engine nobody goes back unless they are bored and just want something to work on. My 5.3 has all factory gaskets, sensors, switches and accessories. Not a drip or drop under it (besides steering box hahaha) It still has original spark plugs and wires with 140+ k on them. Runs like a top and last time i checked it via GPS it got 17.5mpg on backroads when it still had 4.56 gears in it. I have not checked it yet with the 4.10’s.

I can understand that. The GPS speedometer app is so nice for long trips. Just did a 700 mile two day trip-mostly highway with a few back roads. Got about the 15 mpg. Had a big heavy flathead in the bed for half of it. Super windy for one day. The wind and mountain roads with the load was probably what hit my mileage the most. But it ran like a top.

I need to check my MPG’s on my next tank because this new overdrive setup has me VERY curious because it cruises so easily now. Im guess 20’s for sure.

What a ton of great information. I am getting ready to do the LS swap and had a few questions before I jump in. I have a 1951 Chevy with a bolt in Speedway crossmember. I am putting in a 5.3 with a 4L60e trans with a column shifter.
I would like to keep the original gauges, is it possible to keep them and be accurate?
Is the original oil pan going to clear or am I going to have to use a low profile pan? I am not slamming the truck.
I would like to use a frame mount brake booster from Pirate Jack, does anybody know if there will be room with the 4L60e installed?
Barnfinder49, could you post where you found your $20 fuse box?
Thanks again for the information, it has been very helpful and motivating.

I have no idea on the speedway crossmember/oil pan clearance. Mines stock. My pan sits slightly higher than the bottom of the straight axle. All stock gauges can be adapted to work with some trickery. Check ebay for universal fuse/relay box.