The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 235 won't start

I used Liquid Wrench for years before I discovered PB Blaster and never went back to Liquid Wrench. Then I discovered Kroil and never went back to PB Blaster.
Now I am out of Kroil and I am sad because the dude who supplied me with the Kroil quit the job where he stole it from. He now works for himself and has no one to steal from anymore.
I guess I need to find a new friend.

It's cheaper by the gallon- - - - -order it direct!
Jerry

Light oil first before PB Blaster or KOIL, or just use KOIL?

KROIL is a penetrating oil, intended to get between rusty or corroded parts and free them up. Put a couple of ounces into each cylinder, let it sit a few days, then drain it out of the oil pan and pour it back into the cylinders if necessary. (Drain the oil first). I've gotten virtually all of it out of an oil pan after it sits in the cylinders a few days, even on engines with the piston rings rusted tight to the cylinder walls. If the engine isn't stuck that badly, it will usually end up in the oil pan overnight. Apply a liberal squirt to all the valve stems and guides to minimize the chance of sticky valves and bent pushrods. If you're storing an engine for long periods of time, use a thicker coating like 30 weight motor oil in the cylinders as a preservative.

Once the engine is spinning freely and appears to be ready to run, fill the crankcase with fresh motor oil, clean up the spark plugs, set the timing, use fresh gasoline from a clean container like an outboard motor fuel tank (NEVER the vehicle tank unless it's been thoroughly cleaned or replaced) and run the engine until it's warmed up.

If you want to clean sludge and crud from the crankcase and rotating assembly, add 3-4 quarts of Diesel fuel or kerosene to the oil so the crankshaft is running in the lube oil/solvent mix, and run the engine at a moderately fast idle for 20-30 minutes. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE WITH DILUTED OIL! The spinning crankshaft and connecting rods will splash the thinned-out oil around inside the engine like a washing machine agitator and do a better job of cleaning the lower end than removing the oil pan and using a brush and solvent could ever accomplish. Drain the thinned oil while it's hot, change the oil filter element and add fresh oil. The engine should crank and run normally, with 6 volts. Don't forget to reinstall the 6V coil.
Jerry

I’m in agreement with those that prefer Kroil whether it’s stolen or purchased. I also use ATF. I have used Jack Daniels too, it’s better tasting than Kroil. MontanaLee: Keep us posted on your progress. These things can draw down the patience reserve, but some of us are learning along with you too.

You got any Kroil, buddy?

it has been cold in Montana and even though my truck is inside a garage, I had not trouble starting it about 2 weeks ago, and the first sign of the cold (30's) is when the starting problem started. my next move is to remove the plugs and see if it turns over easier. Next I am going to drain the oil, and if I got some resistance still with the plugs removed, I will use KOIL, which I ordered and should be here today. one thing I forgot to mention, I have a factory installed hydraulic pump, operated off a fan belt, could that be the source of the problem. I have not got it operational since there was a leaking hydraulic cylinder on the bed, when I got the truck this summer. Just a though, I am just baffled that I replaced the battery, cables, adn starter, to improve the starting issues, and not it seems to have gotten worse. I am told there is less than 600 miles on the rebuild of the engine. thanks for all the input!

I'd suggest removing all the belts while diagnosing the slow cranking problem, and once you have determined whether or not the engine has an internal problem start adding belt driven accessories back on one at a time. The recent rebuild concerns me- - - -it's possible some sort of mistake was made that is just now coming to be noticed. I've seen situations where a less than clean assembly allowed debris to accumulate in a rod or main bearing and result in the bearing and crankshaft clearance tightening up. That happened on a competitor's racing engine once, and he ended up losing a $10K rotating assembly over it.
Jerry

just did the 15 second ignition off crank, lowest battery reading was 5.2V. tomorrow going to remove spark plugs and see how it turns over. very very slow today, but it is pretty cold.

I just finished removing the plugs and it turned over much faster. I am draining the oil now. should I still use the Kroil down the spark plug holes?

If you can't turn the engine over with the spark plugs removed by grabbing a fan blade (with a properly tightened fan belt) it probably needs more lubrication in the cylinders. Get the rings well-lubed and spinning freely before going any further.
Jerry

thanks jerry.

by grabbing the fan blade I can get it to turn over.

In that case, you should get plenty of cranking RPM with a good 6 volt starter, battery, and properly routed cables. Maybe you're expecting too much in the way of cranking speed? While the plugs are out, try a compression test. If it's got at least 70-80 PSI on all cylinders, it should start and run. 100+ compression pressure is better, but not really necessary. a 6.5:1 compression ratio engine would have 95 PSI of compression pressure at seal level if it was 100% efficient with no ring or valve leakage, something that's virtually impossible to accomplish. As long as all the cylinders are within 5-10% of each other on compression, the actual numbers aren't terribly important.
Jerry

I did everything Jerry told me to do, ATF plus Kroil into the park plug holes, refilled oil with 5-30 , spun it a half dozen times with spark plug in (much much improved) , ignition off, then lug engaged the ignition, the starter seemed to much improved, after a couple tries it fired off. It is running- Jerry is a genius! I can't thank all of your for your help- till next time, I hope I don't jinx myself by writing the note- Merry Christmas stovebolters!!!!

I really think the key was the Kroil mixture, leave it for 3 days, then refill with lighter oil.

"I love it when a plan comes together!" I seem to remember spending a couple of days at a homecoming a few years ago, working with a 235 that had sat unattended for several years. With a lot of work, and a little drill sergeant language at times, it finally fired off!
Jerry

Awesome. I love it when my engine starts after I work on it.. I bet you learned a thing or three as well.

Those special words do indeed make us feel better - we can believe they make a difference in getting them started.

I put a HEI distributer on my 235 to eliminate the points, condenser etc. Also took out the ballast resister and now get a full 12 volts to the coil to start. Motor starts right up every time!