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Joined: Feb 2007
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'Bolter
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Hi All,
In 1978 I bought this 1968 C50 from the original owner who was retiring.
It was a 19,500 lbs. GVW truck.
327 V8, 4 speed, Vac. operated two speed truck.

It was a nice truck, and I worked it through the nineties into 2000.
In 1993 the 327 was replaced with a GM Goodwrench 350hd engine.
According to my records the 350 engine now has 15,xxxx miles on it.

Well life changes and went on to other ventures and the truck was parked.

I then loaned the truck to a friend to aid in developing his new property and house in 2003

Then he parked it in 2005.
I never really thought about it much, as I knew were it was, and thought all was fine,
And figured he still used it occasionally, but kind of lost touch.

Then I'm told from his ex I need to get it off the property . Fine I can do that.

When I get there, I quickly realized that this didn't end well.

The truck was parked in a area that grew back up, (think Woods)
It was a mess.

I spent most of Sat. with a chainsaw cutting my way in, cleaning it off, and inside out best I could for now.
Think leaves, acorns, rodents, etc.

The accelerator pedal, and clutch pedal were stuck.

I got the throttle working by freeing up the linkage on the carb.
The clutch is better, but I have to pull the pedal back up by hand, so where gaining on it.

So I put in a new Battery and got gas flowing to the carb, but won't run.

60 psi oil pressure I noticed while cranking, which is a good thing.

Also after topping off the coolant I see it dripping out the heater box. So I bypassed the hoses for now.
Cleaned and re-gaped the points after I realized I had no Ign. spark.

Try it again the Old girl took right off, even raising the bed in the process. I had forgot the dump and PTO controls
Are backwards from what you would think.
Also I left the Clutch pedal stuck down but Obviously the disk is also stuck.

So I let run for half hour or so and tried braking the clutch free by yanking it in low gear, but that didn't work.

Now I need to free up the clutch, and bleed the brakes some.
At lease it does build somewhat of a pedal, and move more junk to get it out and on the trailer.

The plan for now is to at least get it back home, and clean it up and save it.

Tom








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'Bolter
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The clutch in mine had similar symptoms. Mice built a very dense mess in the bell housing and the urine froze the throwout bearing to the snout of the tranny. I had a hard time getting the trans separated from the engine and couldn't pull them out as one unit. I was able to save the input shaft bearing retainer and with new clutch and throwout it works perfectly. I put her to work today and hauled 105 bales of hay, only a 30 mile round trip but it does a good job.

Last edited by 78buckshot; 12/08/2019 11:19 PM.

1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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'Bolter
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Get the clutch linkage working, I presume it is hydraulic, correct me if I am wrong. Fix the return springs or whatever is wrong with the linkage on the outside of the clutch housing. Put the truck in high gear and start the engine, or whatever gear it will start in. Hold the clutch pedal down while starting. The truck will at least lurch and clutch should come free. Be ready to shut it off quick if it does not come free or if the brakes don't work.

If you have the room, joggle the throttle to stress the clutch, that is why I suggest starting in high gear, more stress on the clutch. Keep the clutch pedal down so only the rust is holding the clutch engaged.

If it gets moving and the brakes don't work, shut it off to stop it and fix the brakes.

Nice truck, love the short wheelbase!


Mac :{)

1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally
1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
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'Bolter
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Nice truck. Too bad your buddy screwed you over on it. Hope you get it going again.

My truck doesn't get driven as much as it should and the clutch will sometimes stick on it if it sits too long. I start it up in gear with the clutch held down and hit the brakes hard. That breaks it loose. I've gotten to where I block the pedal down with a piece of board when I park it for a prolonged period.


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
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Big Bolt Forum Moderator
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good luck getting the clutch unstuck! My 55 2-ton does the same and as suggested above, I get it warmed up and then start it in gear with the clutch pedal all the say down. That usually frees it up. (mine is not stuck that bad though, an does not sit more than a few months at a time).


Mike
1955 Chevy 6400 ex-flatbed (no bed now!) sold September 2023
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1959 Chevy Suburban Owned for almost 20 years, Daily Driver -- sold May 2016
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Originally Posted by 78buckshot
The clutch in mine had similar symptoms. Mice built a very dense mess in the bell housing and the urine froze the throwout bearing to the snout of the tranny. I had a hard time getting the trans separated from the engine and couldn't pull them out as one unit. I was able to save the input shaft bearing retainer and with new clutch and throwout it works perfectly. I put her to work today and hauled 105 bales of hay, only a 30 mile round trip but it does a good job.

Well I removed the clutch cover and mine is no where near as bad is yours was.
Clean but dry in there.
I do think the bearing collar is sliding ok now, I think the problem is under the dash
Were it crosses over from pedal to rod.

Thanks for the reply

Tom

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'Bolter
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Well, that's good news.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy

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