My neighbor and friend just acquired a 1939 COE GMC in remarkable condition, has very little surface rust, no windows and is about 98% complete. He hasn't decided if he wants to leave it stock or improve it for a car hauler, Have any of you purchased cut flat glass for a glass shop? Any other recommendations? Anyone have any sheet metal parts (trim around windshield mostly) or know of a source/alternative? TIA, Shack
Flat glass is relatively inexpensive. Normally they use the old window for a pattern on old vehicles where they don't have the pattern in stock. That could be a problem if you don't have an old window. You might have to make your own pattern. Or they might have it, no problem. Check around the shops near you, see what they say. They might recommend an 'old' shop that can help. You will need the metal tracks so they can be mounted on the glass.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
I bought new flat glass from Street Rod Glass. The prices seemed to be fairly good, but they are in California so shipping might be an issue. https://streetrodglass.com/glass-kits/
One thing to remember. IF you are upgrading to electric windows, tell them that!!! because they need to add a couple inches of glass.. yes, I bought a second set of door glass.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
OK, If your friend is wanting to build a car hauler, here is the best advice I can offer. I have a 1939 Chevy COE 1 ton hot rod. Still all one ton, but up-graded. First, yes he will need to tell the glass provider weather he is going stock or going electric. The glass will be sized different. Only the doors will be different. The windshield can be changed to a one piece glass if he doesn't want to keep the crank.out windshields. But if he is building something to drive every day & make a hauler, the best way will be to go find a complete 1 or 2 ton GM stepvan for a Donner, like a bread truck or moving van, one he can drive & be sure it is road ready. If GMC was made by GM you will find that his frame is a P30 frame. GM still uses the P30 frame rails on big trucks. It doesn't matter if the Donner is longer than he needs, the rails can be shortened out back. He can sit his cab & pedestal right on a newer frame & everything will bolt right up. Use the Donner's gauge panel in his dash, wire it up & drive away with a newer independent front suspension with disc brakes, a V8 & complete drive train that matches. He will save money time & headaches trying to figure what will work together best. When it comes time to replace parts, he won't have aftermarket mix match parts to look for. I wish I had gotten a complete driver Donner. I found a 1980 Chevy stepvan frame & front-end to started my build. First thing I found was that if I had wanted my truck to sit stock on the frame, all I would had needed was to keep the pedestal on my cab & sit it on the Donner frane, some of the bolt holes in the frame were even in the right place. My truck was originally a short 107" wheel base tow truck. It's still a short 1 ton tow truck but with no boom yet. I wanted it to sit just off the ground. So I did away with the 10" pedestal & built a tilt cab sub frame. I added air ride all around, 4 bags in the rear to haul the weight. It still has dully wheels & sits 2" off the ground. Because of all my changes I'm still working out bugs but it will work in the end. Find a complete driver Donner truck...... I once spoke with a old COE builder that builds trucks for a living. He uses Isuzu NPA trucks as Donner's & say's they work good?
Last edited by OLDSCHOOL CHEV; 12/28/20198:21 PM.
Darrell, W.L. 1939 Chevy COE tow truck/My Stubbed toe 1939 Chevy 2 door Sedan
Car chat means talks about Chevy's. All other car makers only build transportation. I don't work on my cars, I entertain my self in my garage, so my nabor tells me.
