The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Ranco heater valve

Just asking- how hard is it to rebuild the Ranco valve? I’m weighing the cost of having it done ($150 if you have one to send them) or rebuilding it myself. I saw Dave’s descriptions and they look pretty complete but just want to hear if it’s harder/easier than it looks.

Very easy to rebuild, You only replace the rubber stopper and some kits give you a new plunger, but is not needed .
Just take your time taking apart ,has brass lock down tabs ,once straight you just wiggle and pull and it will come apart,
Also the new seal only will cost you 10 to 20 bucks. Napa sells them.
Have fun very easy

Thanks. Looks like you have to be very careful re-assembling it. Any “tips” to look out for from previous repairers?

Another question–– where/how does the capillary tube attach? There is a small bracket on the end of the tube with a hole in it, I assume for a screw.

The cap tube is supposed to measure the temperature of the air exiting the heater as you probably know. IIRC the tube on mine was screwed to the cardboard firewall pad adjacent the air outlet. It worked well. I repaired mine years ago with a kit specified for a 70s era Volvo. It was cheap and easy.

I rebuilt my Ranco valve a few years ago. Achipmunk sent me a few photos that really demonstrated the process, but I couldn't locate them. A quick search and I found this step-by-step Ranco valve rebuild by Czechman aka 'Woody'. This gives you a pretty clear picture of what you are in for and it is quite doable.

RANCO VALVE RESTORATION

I may even have another seal or two BK 660-1000. Send me a PM if you're interested.

Don't tell tclederman, but I completely disassembled my leaky Rancho valve, including unsoldering the end cap to facilitate the complete gutting of the internals. I then reassembled it so that it is nothing more than a solid, leak-proof pipe fitting.
I still have the now non-functional bellows in place as well as the "warmer" knob which still turns, but doesn't do anything.
It now works just as well as the originals did. Not at all (in my opinion).
And it will never leak again, which is more than can be said about the original ones.
Carl

Could a newer type valve be used or modified to work as the original with the turn type knob instead of a cable.

Mine worked fine and kept the temperature constant, up hill and down dale unless I moved the "warmer" knob. Kept the cab toasty down to about 10 deg. F. Then cardboard had to be put in front of the radiator and a 195 thermostat but even that was marginal below zero. We're moving into that kind of weather now where I am. Seven degrees this morning. The later deluxe heaters had a door on the front that could be opened to recirculate the air in very cold weather. I passed one by in the junk yard years ago and have regretted that many times.