The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 'Heat soak' on a 1955 235cc

Starts up quick and crisp when cold. Drive around awhile, stop to shop a few minutes, then it goes er. er. er. Click click then dead. Several hours later it starts right up. This has never happened when I ran a 216/235 in the 1949 3600. Bubble wrap seems temp. fix. Shims? argh. Any body got remedy? Brushes? Fused commutator?

Take the starter to a reputable starter/alternator repair shop. They will tell you what is wrong and probably rebuild it like new for less than what a rebuilt one will cost.

Ditto what 52Carl said. I was just having goofy starter issues with my 63 GMC 305. Looked around for a starter locally at the various part stores. None available. Checked Rock Auto, they had 1 but only reman and required a core returned. Called Ed's Generartor about 3 min down the road from me. Took it down, done same day, $58 bucks, And a garentee that I'd never have a starter problem again. Can't beat it. And to help small businesses is what I like to do. Look around, I'm sure there's a place locally that can help ya out. And I'd bet they would be happy to do so. Good luck

Check your timing

I don't understand what you are doing with the bubble wrap.

Insulating the starter from heat? maybe its temporary because the bubble wrap melts!

Bubbawrap fix came from utube...o'reilly autoparts..apparrently

Its excellent., the timing is.

Around 1970 a friend of mine rebuilt his engine and paid no attention at all to matching the piston rod caps to the proper rods. Meaning number 1 may have been mated with number 4 rod and so forth. It did this exact same thing. He tried several rebuilt starters and a new battery...before he pulled the pan and put the rod caps on the proper rods. Then there was no problem. Good luck. If this engine was rebuilt recently this could be your problem. If I had known what he was doing beforehand, I would have stopped him.

This engine was rebuilt 1300 miles ago at a 'reputable' machine shop in Las Vegas...ooo..happens to has very similar name...anyway they also had it timed 180 degrees out. They do big time work for the big racetrack here too. It is out of warranty now.
I guess they saw me coming a mile away. I must have paid several months of rent for them. So far your suggestion seems right on, eh.
BTW how do I determine correct cap and rod match?

Local shop wants 120-180 bucks.

What's the battery terminal voltage and/or starter current draw when the engine refuses to turn?

Like Sun test equipment's slogan used to be- - - - -"Test, Don't Guess!"
Jerry

Yes, be an electrician, not a mechanic... I will force it tomorrow and check. Battery is 13.5 volts w/no load.
Another suggestion is to try a lighter weight motor oil. I have 40 wgt. in it now due to desert heat.
Hey, it is good to see us both around!

Yep, still surviving- - - -one day at a time! I always like to make sure the engine can turn freely before blaming the starter for a slow crank/no crank situation. Sometimes the battery will be good for one cold start only, also, and fail to handle the load of the next attempt. One "load test" I like to do requires nothing but a voltmeter- - - -disable the ignition and crank the engine for 15 seconds. Then, while still cranking, check the battery terminal voltage. A good 12 volt won't drop much below 10 volts on that test. Sometimes it takes a helper to operate the starter while you monitor voltage at the battery.
Jerry