Well I finally got my 46 216 running right. I found a second fuel filter directly under the gas tank and it was really clogged. I also got me a donor intake and exhaust manifold set that has a working heat control unit and now I want to clean it up before installing. I know some use the Calyx to renew the finish but has anyone tried the Slip-Plate spray product? It sounds better than paint or Calyx. I am really questioning my motor, compression is 110 on all cylinders, and starting and running OK now. The stamping on the passenger side near the starter is only T-41 ,it makes me wonder if this is a 41 motor. This truck is Canadian and researching is difficult. it had an older 3 speed trans with a smaller bolt pattern, I put in a proper date coded 3 speed in it now. It had 2 sets of holes for the tranny bolt patterns. anyone had any experiences with these Canadian trucks? I don't know if this is how things were built back then, or if in the last 70 years someone swapped the motor and tranny or what. Also I read the ring and pinion swap kit may not work on Canadian trucks. Where can I get info?
I have a Canadian 44 1/2 ton and the numbers matching motor is a 1940 and the steering gear is pre 41. Also the headliner is 1 piece. I think they were built with whatever was available. I’m going thru the gear swap right now. Canadian differential is different size from US differential so you can’t just change them. Also ring gear bolt spacing is different so new 3.55 gears will not bolt to Canadian differential. I’m drilling new ring gear to match Canadian differential. I’ve found a lot of differences between the 2 and a lot of non usable parts and money along the way...
I installed a 3:55 ring and pinion in a Canadian differential and can share the following:
The bolt hole circle ( tapped holes) on the new ring gear was 6.062" diameter which I assume is the same for all U.S. trucks. The Canadian ring gear had a bolt circle of 6.188" dia. (thru holes). To make things fit the holes (and spotfaces) on the Canadian carrier need to be elongated 1/16" radially towards center or 1/8" on diameter. This is the only modification required.
This is great info that you are telling me, but I need some more info./ You are not modifying the new ring gear? You are modifying the existing carrier holes to match the new threaded ring gear? I don't have the equipment to do this, but I want to plan on getting it done in the near future. I guess the new pinion is fine and not altered. The photos are helpful.
Looks like curt is modifying the carrier and I’m opposite modifying the ring gear but both will get the job done. For my experience the pinion is a “direct” replacement.
Looks like curt is modifying the carrier and I’m opposite modifying the ring gear but both will get the job done.
I can provide a few reasons why this is a bad idea...
1. If the ring gear ever fails or needs replacement custom machining will again be required on the replacement to make it fit.
2. Modifying the ring gear requires adding an additional circle of tapped thru holes straddling the existing ones. The existing threaded holes were put there BEFORE the ring gear was hardened so this may prove to be mildly difficult up to nearly impossible depending on the hardness of the part.
3. The carrier is made of easily machinable cast iron and requires a minimum amount of material removal. If I didn't have machine tools at my disposal I wouldn't be afraid to elongate the holes with a rat tail file towards the center as shown in my previous post. Th owner of Scotts Super Trucks here in Canada suggests that method to his customers who want to do this upgrade.
Interesting, a rat tail file. Sometimes things that are so simple don't register until someone mentions them. I appreciate these options and the carrier modification sounds better than the ring gear.
