The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Torque tube shaft play inspection...how?

My 53 3100 is back on the road after a 3-year restore and I have a vibration and noise starting around 35 mph. I separated the torque tube from the 3-speed and the u-joint has play so I ordered the u-joint repair kit from Classic Parts. I'm concerned the torque tube shaft bushing may be worn as well and want to replace it, if needed, while I have it apart. I cannot move the spline shaft up/down or side to side by hand but I can get movement with a small pry bar. My question is what is the procedure to tell if there is play in this bushing and if I need the Okie bushing. Thanks!

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Testing is how you did it, with a small pry bar.
But vibration & noise could be coming from anywhere.
Are you loosing tranny gear lube?
Is the rear axle filling up with tranny gear lube?
How are the rear motor mounts?

If the clearance between the propeller shaft and its torque tube bushing exceeds .10"
The torque tube bushings (Front and Rear) and the oil seal should be replaced. Inspection

And GM film strip scroll to slide 13, more slides below 13 also.

You can do it the hard way (pull the torque tube from the axle housing) or the quicker way install a Okie bushing
More info HERE scroll

A lot of the times the reason there is vibration and noise in that area is not because the u-joint is bad.
Its because the the front and rear torque tube bushings are bad, making the u-joint to flop around and then it goes bad. Prematurely wearing out.

Troubles and Remedies scroll

Your torque tube bushings are press fit no dowel pins.

Thanks for the info. All of my mounts are new. The rear diff was a little too full. I think I will go ahead and put in an Okie bushing while I have it apart. Jim Carter shows to have these and the tool in stock. There is some wear in the propeller shaft yoke where it rides on the bushing. Since they don't make these aftermarket I guess mine will have to do. I just hope the install goes smoothly. I've researched this and some had fitment issues but they may have had the wrong Okie bushing.

The company that makes the Okie bushing for some of the vendors is Genie Shifter Better Price.
The rear yokes are fairly easy to find. illustration A - illiustration B- illustration C -Living Color - U-Joint Parts Clearer
Group #5.555 Part # 3665768

Chevs of the 40s U-joint
eBay u-joint assembly

Hot yoke pics

xfiles

Make sure the U-joints are phased properly.

Ed

There's only one U joint on a torque tube rear axle- - - - -it's a little difficult to get it out of phase!
Jerry

I don't have any hot spots on the yoke. I got the calipers out and found I have .008 difference where it rides on the bushing. Is that in tolerance or do I need a new rear yoke?

You could bring it to a machine shop and have them build it up and turn it down.
Otherwise you need a little room for a thin film of gear lube.
.008 is pretty small.

I'd be more concerned about the rear propeller shaft torque bushing and oil seal.
And the trunnion/u-joint bearings/bushings..

EdPruss,

I thought same thing phased properly.
Then I thought one u-joint.

The front bushing inside dimension is (Drum Roll Please), 1 ¹¹⁄₃₂" = 1.3437
Grp # 5.451 Part # 3694732

From what I understood is the oakie bushing and seal ride on different areas from the original. Thus any wear on your original parts don’t contact the new bushing/seal.
Keep your eyes open and you can find NOS yokes from time to time as I have.

Thanks everyone. I have ordered the u-joint repair kit and will order the okie bushing tomorrow. I'll see how that fixes the vibration. Finger's crossed I don't have to get a new yoke, too.

When you get your Okie bushing you can test fit the rear yoke by sliding it into Okie bushing.

Good idea!