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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 251
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'Bolter
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Hey guys,
I have a ‘57 3200 with a rebuilt 350, topped with Carter AFB Competition Series 9635S, pushing a TH350 tranny. On occasion, it surprises me at a stop sign with an engine rev of probably 1000 rpm. A quick shift into neutral drops it back to normal. Does this sound like a vacuum problem or could it be transmission related?


1957 Chevy 3200
Daily Driver
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights.
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'Bolter
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Hy DES57, welcome, I can honestly say that never in all my years have I heard of such a symptom. I wouldn't put something like this past a confusilator controlled engine, but a carbureted one? You say when you shift the transmission into neutral the engine returns to idle, no load on the engine and the r.p.m. goes down??? Does this occur as you're coming to a stop or after you're actually stopped? I'll be very interested to follow this thread.

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'Bolter
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It occurs while stopped for 10-20 seconds with my foot firmly placed on the brake and my hand on shifter, ready to throw it in neutral. I have a three mile drive to town at 45 mph so it’s typically warmed up. Just this week I discovered an open vacuum connection so I plugged that but haven’t had a chance to see if that made a difference. I have the door panels off to upholster them myself. This past spring I had a/c, ps, tilt column, parking brake, and exhaust installed. After four years, this is my first year to actually start driving it. Just building a daily driver. Any suggestions appreciated.


1957 Chevy 3200
Daily Driver
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights.
Follow in the DITY
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'Bolter
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It occurs while stopped for 10-20 seconds with my foot firmly placed on the brake and my hand on shifter, ready to throw it in neutral. I have a three mile drive to town at 45 mph so it’s typically warmed up. Just this week I discovered an open vacuum connection so I plugged that but haven’t had a chance to see if that made a difference. I have the door panels off to upholster them myself. This past spring I had a/c, ps, tilt column, parking brake, and exhaust installed. After four years, this is my first year to actually start driving it. Just building a daily driver. Any suggestions appreciated.


1957 Chevy 3200
Daily Driver
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights.
Follow in the DITY
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,063
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,063
power brakes? that could change the vacuum when you come to a stop, which could change idle a bit but I would not think that much. It may be that he vacuum leak you fixed will solve your problem. I would take it for another test drive and see!


Mike
1955 Chevy 6400 ex-flatbed (no bed now!) sold September 2023
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Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof
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'Bolter
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Update: Ran some errands today and it still revved up at the first traffic signal. My fixed vacuum leak didn’t change anything. I’m wondering if something from the transmission is affecting it. PO rebuilt engine and transmission. Also, no power brakes.

Last edited by DES57; 11/21/2019 3:21 AM.

1957 Chevy 3200
Daily Driver
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights.
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Renaissance Man
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Is there a vacuum line going to the transmission?


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Check your motor mounts. The engine could be shifting around enough at a stop to pull on the throttle linkage.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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'Bolter
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There is a vacuum hose from Carter 9635s carb to the TH350 transmission. Motor mounts appear tight and not cracked. Took another drive today and it did not lunge/surge. A little cooler out at only about 35 F. When I get time I’ll see if it will stay running with the warm idol dropped a tad. No tach, but I’m guessing it’s about 900 now.


1957 Chevy 3200
Daily Driver
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights.
Follow in the DITY
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,286
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Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by DES57
There is a vacuum hose from Carter 9635s carb to the TH350 transmission.
Check to see if the diaphragm to which the vacuum line is attached is not ruptured. You can use a Mitey-vac or your mouth on the hose. It should hold vacuum until next Tuesday if its good.

Last edited by 52Carl; 11/24/2019 3:48 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Apr 2005
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'Bolter
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I would consider what HRL suggested regarding motor mounts. Not that they are loose but where they are located. I have seen some conversions that are using the "bird leg" front mounts and a rear mount for the TH350 transmission. With this configuration there is an extreme distance between the mounts and can cause the engine to torque over to one side which may cause the throttle linkage to bind up.
If you are using the "center" mount position on the engine with the rear mount it is likely OK and would look for another cause.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
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'Bolter
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Hey Guys,
I’m sorry I haven’t posted lately. Haven’t driven the ’57 for three weeks. I have not tested the vacuum yet either, as Carl suggested. Surprisingly, my 26 year old grandson threw out the idea of the torque converter between engine and transmission. He’s way more mechanical than I am. I’ll have to research that. You gents have any thoughts about the torque converter? I’m not even sure if the old truck has one.

Last edited by DES57; 12/23/2019 2:48 AM. Reason: Misspelling

1957 Chevy 3200
Daily Driver
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights.
Follow in the DITY
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Any chance your brake linkage is rubbing on accelerator linkeage somewhere?

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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'Bolter
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Sorry it’s taken me so long to post a resolution to this problem. As colder weather has begun here in Illinois, and I found need to drive my 3200 numerous times, I was experiencing idle kick down problems and began the hunt for the cause. As I started with idle mixture screws and subsequent movement of the throttle linkage by hand, I noticed the linkage hanging up a bit. I initially thought the gas pedal rod through the firewall was binding a bit, but further investigation revealed the culprit. The bottom of the accelerator rod lever was touching the firewall. I adjusted the accelerator rod length at the carburetor and subsequently reduced engine idle and all problems solved. Thanks for you interest, help, and patience!


1957 Chevy 3200
Daily Driver
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights.
Follow in the DITY

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