The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rochester B rebuild

Last weekend my ‘50 left me stranded for the first time. It has been running just fine for many miles, but started running rough and was difficult to keep running at a red light. Pulled over at a C-store and turned it off. I went inside for a soda, then came back out and tried to start it. No go! Raised the hood and gas was pouring from the bottom of the carb. Suspected a stuck float so tapped on the bowl several times but it still poured gas when I cranked it. Ended up having it towed home on the back of a rollback.

Today I took the carb off and poured out the remaining gasoline, then took the two halves apart. Inside the bowl was about 3-4 tablespoons of a clear-milky fluid that didn’t feel like gasoline and didn’t smell like it either. Gasoline has a strong scent and this fluid did not. I decided it must be a water like remnant of the ethanol in the gas. Nasty stuff that shouldn’t be in a man’s carburetor! I poured it out and let it all dry out, then snapped this pic of the top half showing lots of white crud. I’m going to put a new kit in it, and have decided to buy only *real* gasoline from now on. It’s for sale locally now for about 50 cents more per gallon, but worth it in my opinion.

I discovered the issues running ethanol in anything that has the potential to sit for awhile several years ago. It seemed anytime I had to do something that requires starting gas powered lawn and garden equipment it wouldn’t start or just run terrible, requiring cleaning that gunk out of the carburetors. Sometimes three or four a year. After doing this for a few years I discovered a few local gas stations sold non-ethanol gas. Like you said it cost a bit more but I no longer have to disassemble all of those carburetors. In addition, I also mix a gas treatment in to keep the gas from going bad. Now I carburetor cleaning days are few.

Forgive my ignorance....... looking at my photo, does the tall brass pointed “stem” thing come out of the hole during a carb rebuild or is it permanent? It won’t come out using my fingers and I didn’t want to pull on it with pliers and damage it.

The larger "stem" should come out. Put some carb cleaner on it & work it out carefully with pliers. It has a spring under it & needs to be cleaned up so it will slide in & out. The end will go into the jet holder & knock the little ball off its seat. The small brass tube stays in the air horn.
George

Thanks, I got the stem out and everything is soaking in Chem-Dip.

Youtube has some good videos on this: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Rochester+B+rebuild
don

Chuck,

Just recently had the opportunity to drive my frame-off restored '58 Apache as part of the break-in. I run nothing but 93 octane with a lead additive. None of that junk ethanol gas for my new toy!

There is a new gas station being built not far from me that will sell “real” 100% gasoline without ethanol. It’s about 50 cents/gal more expensive but I’ve decided it’s worth it. I usually drive my truck only on the weekend, so the gas stays in the tank a while and deteriorates. The “real” gas will hold up much longer. I guess I could do like you and add a lead additive. Where do you get it?

In my neck of the woods.....upstate NY,... Stewarts sells non ethanol premium...$3.33 per gallon...and very pleased to pay it....even though my 250 & 292 are thirsty guys, and don't have the compression required for premium.... I don't use them that often, and they both hibernate during the winter months.....The non ethanol gas is regulated by county....where you can get it in one county, but not another...My fear is that someday non ethanol won't be available at all....In addition to the non ethanol, I spike every tank full with Startron....