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#1332908 11/07/2019 7:08 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 480
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 480
I've noticed that my one ton sometimes bucks when I'm letting out the clutch. It only happens when I'm starting from rest going uphill in second gear. It's not really chattering, and it doesn't last long, just the first few seconds until I get moving. Is this normal? I realize that it takes some force to get this thing moving, especially with the big tires (7.50/17). Should I be starting out in first gear? I hardly ever use first, it's so low in the SM420.

I have no problems in any other gear once it's moving, and I have no problems on the flat. But even a slight rise, like coming out of a parking lot, causes the bucking.

Any hints, suggestions, advice?

Tim


I am currently digging back in to a 1953 3800 (one ton) with a nine foot bed. I've owned it since 1979, and drove it until 1982 (or so). My wife got me involved in restoring it back in 2002, got the body removed and the frame redone, then things came up. Now I am retired and starting again. If anyone is interested I have photos on Imagur ( https://timwhiteblues.imgur.com/ ). I live way back in the woods in the Ozarks on 40 acres at the end of a 2 1/2 mile private road.

Tim
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Higher rpm’s and more clutch slip will be your friend in such situations.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,003
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,003
I think if it was me, Id pull on in 1st on hills. Id rather have an extra shift to get moving instead of causing premature clutch wear. 2nd on the flats is fine otherwise. Sounds like you might already have a clutch wear issue. Monitor it. It will only get worse, sooner or later.

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,756
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Posts: 29,756
Check your motor mounts for looseness. Just a little bounce, especially at the bellhousing, will cause that kind of symptom. The clutch linkage gets to moving back and forth as the bellhousing bounces, and it becomes a harmonic vibration that feeds on itself.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: May 2001
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W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
Yep, in the SM420, true 1st gear would be "granny" or "compound low." That's my parking brake. When I take off in it, I will slow to a stop before I can shift into true 2nd. Uphill would be worse. So true 2nd is my 1st, effectively.

For me, I'd try to use the gas pedal and clutch pedal to figure out how to minimize the buck. Right foot, left foot getting on the same page might solve the problem.





1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 480
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 480
Well, I'm hoping it's not the clutch wearing out. It has 71 miles on it now. And the motor mounts front and rear are brand new. I was worried that I might have some oil or grease on the clutch, but I see no evidence of that. I was worried that I might not have gotten the rear main seal right (the infamous rope seal), but there is no oil leakage apparent. I guess I just need to get used to driving this thing again.

Tim


I am currently digging back in to a 1953 3800 (one ton) with a nine foot bed. I've owned it since 1979, and drove it until 1982 (or so). My wife got me involved in restoring it back in 2002, got the body removed and the frame redone, then things came up. Now I am retired and starting again. If anyone is interested I have photos on Imagur ( https://timwhiteblues.imgur.com/ ). I live way back in the woods in the Ozarks on 40 acres at the end of a 2 1/2 mile private road.

Tim
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,188
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,188
Maybe the clutch just needs to break in.

I always start in 1st gear, but my axle has highway gears.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,361
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,361
Tim, X2 on Jerry's advice to check motor mounts. Tightening them up solved my problem. Even though they are new in your case, won't take long to check to see they're still tight and it would be the easy solution. Well, the easiest thing would be to intentionally slip the clutch and see if that helps. While in high gear at a 30 or so mph and going up hill just ride the clutch a bit causing it to slip. Not for too long, just enough to burn off any oils. May help and if not overdone won't hurt since few will ever drive there trucks to the point of actually wearing out a clutch.

Good Luck,

RonR


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
We had a '51 Chevy car when we lived in Seattle in the 1960's. The hills downtown were so steep that at a stop light, I used the parking brake and released it as I let out the clutch. Otherwise, I'd probably roll back into the car behind me.

Also, "heel and toeing" with the right foot worked. Let up the brake with the heel while giving it more gas with the toes.

Are you rolling backwards at all?

Pictures of the '51 are in the link in my signature.

Last edited by Wally / Montana; 11/08/2019 3:34 PM.

1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
Originally Posted by moparguy
Tim, X2 on Jerry's advice to check motor mounts. Tightening them up solved my problem. Even though they are new in your case, won't take long to check to see they're still tight and it would be the easy solution. Well, the easiest thing would be to intentionally slip the clutch and see if that helps. While in high gear at a 30 or so mph and going up hill just ride the clutch a bit causing it to slip. Not for too long, just enough to burn off any oils. May help and if not overdone won't hurt since few will ever drive there trucks to the point of actually wearing out a clutch.

Good Luck,

RonR
The jackhole who built my truck forgot to tighten the rear motor mounts. I would have fired him but I am a one man shop...
He talks to himself incessantly, yet never seems to listen to himself.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
52Carl #1333065 11/09/2019 2:18 AM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 776
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 776
Originally Posted by 52Carl
The jackhole who built my truck forgot to tighten the rear motor mounts. I would have fired him but I am a one man shop...
He talks to himself incessantly, yet never seems to listen to himself.

I'd still fire him! eeeek


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,003
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,003
I work for the same guy. He insists hes always right and refuses to admit when hes wrong. lol.


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