The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Repo doors?

Has anyone had any experience with repo doors? My 59 doors need work. quote was $750 each ^ mo wait . Looked online at 3 dealers $560-599 + ship Wondering which is a better route.Two of the dealers are within the state so local pickup could save shipping

Bought my doors from LMC. Shipping was free within the continental US, so I had them shipped to Blaine, WA.

Can't remember how long the wait was but it much less than 6 months!

The doors on my 57 were rotted on the bottom. I bought replacement lower panels. Worked fine. I wanted to get
experience welding and leading. Also I was able to gap the doors a letter better along the way.
don

"Wondering which is a better route"..................What are you asking? Which vendor ? Which price? or what other routes are there besides new doors? Don't understand the question yet.
There are 5 other options. We don't have any idea what "need work" means either.
1. Donor door
2. Donor patch
3. New patch panel
4. Make a patch
5. Fix the dents

Maybe some history of the doors project will help. These were in the truck when I got it (20yrs ago) The so fla weather has not been kind. I pulled one a few years back and got a outer and iner lower panel . To practice welding and body work. got them fitted some what and tacked. Then the other door started to sag when I opened it, Fixed the hindge and replaced the hindge mount on the cab. That door also needed lower iner and out panels and the lower hindge mount fixed. met a guy at the local cruze that did paint and body said he could finish them. since I had a full plate with a lot of other life problems. I thought it was a good idea. meanwhile I had found a new cab and started to get it ready for the doors. got it ready to prime and the door guy says bring it ouer and will fit the doors and prime/paint it all. Then comes hurricanes and job related issues and kid problems. I ran out of patience and retrieved the stuff. now I am back to sq 1.5 and am looking for a path to get the truck on the road. So when the next guy quoted 750 a door and a year wait I looked at a quicked option in new doors . Took the orig doors to a friends shop and he nit picked them so I am looking at both sides of the repair. new or more money in the pit. I am not building a show truck just a driver. Sorry for the longwinded speech .

Detail is appreciated. It takes a good explanation because we have no other way of accessing. Thank you.
However we still don't know what actually needs to be done to the doors you have? Did the cruise guy fix them? Sounds like something is wrong with them if you are thinking new doors, but we don't know what? Specifically.

Doors are plenty fixable. Lot's of patch panels for almost every inch. Takes medium fab skills and good thin sheet metal welding skills. But it's just a sheet metal box. Warping is the only big concern. A cardboard profile of the curvature is a good thing to have, traced from a good door. If you are frustrated and too busy and all, then you are not ready for this. Life, family, income, happiness is first.

We will be glad to advise if all is well and you can explain what needs done to the doors. Pics will really help. We have all had this kind of frustration, temporary loss of interest and life's challenges.

Doors is easy. You can do anything with some help from Stovebolt. If you've got the money, buy doors from one of the big vendors. LMC, Brothers, Mar-K, Classic...
Let others give their take on this first. They will need condition of present doors. There are several gurus on this. MNSmith and MPandC to name few.

Thanks for the advise
drivers door needed the lower panels inside and out. midway up it has some dura glass but not to thick. inside does not show any bondo coming thru. but is rusty. has some issues with the edges where the outer folds over to the iner door.
pass door has lower panels replaced also inside does not show any bondo repairs but is rusty. same issues with the door edges.
both the doors have good upper areas but a few 1/4 holes from rust. all the inner braces are in good shape. I have borrowed a tank sand blaster from a friend and was gona blast the doors and prime to get a idea as to what would be needed.
both doors have the oilcan sound mid way up .
my question on new doors was if anyone had gotten some and how was the quality? did they fit how soon did they rust out, all the braces and bolt holes correct. I will try th get some pic of the problems and post Thanks for listening

It's easy for me to say what I would do because I'm retired, I'm cheap and we have no rust here. So sounds like too much rust/work, so I would get some good donors that need minimal work. May change my mind after pix.

If you do have the time, I would at least see what is in your region for good donor doors. Then give it the Ben Franklin list.

hope this works this is drivers door the better of the two

Looks like it did this is pass door

Sand off, wire brush or sand blast the surface rust. Very driver quality from what I see. Better than I thought. Can't see bottoms however.

Paint 'em Danno.

I see purple doors in background?

The bottoms are the new parts . they look good. the two tape marks on the pass door are the bondo but not more than 1/8 deep . picked up sand today and a new water filter . will try the blaster later this week. posted a want add for doors .well see what shows up . That is a burgundy metal flake door.It came from the new cab and is just to keep the truck driveable. Hopefully the weather will get onboard on this project also. Thanks for the moral support.

The thing about blasting is it gets inside door. 1/8" is about max thick to be kosher. I've seen 3/4" last 30 years.

The OP's question was, "Does anyone have experience with repro doors?"

Your answer would be "No."

The OP's question was, "Does anyone have experience with repro doors?"

Your answer would be "No."

Jay Zed:

Not sure what your aim is here. I don't need anyone to answer for me. If that would be your answer, that's great.

I was digging a little deeper into the underlying problem. Looking at his other questions. I was curious if "better route" meant "which price". It seemed a little odd he would want us to state which price without a vendor named. We could only pick the lowest price, sense all of these parts come from the same Chinese/off shore factory. So I asked for clarification and assumed he meant other routes besides new. Then gave other "routes" to consider. As you can see I was not the first to mention other options and you can see he did engage in other options and was appreciative.
He is now checking those options with a little encouragement. I think most of us can detect if a person needs help other than a "no" answer.

"No" is a one word, non responsive answer that does not open up helpful discussion. It seems your post has no basis in reasoning other than to be negative towards me.

I have never had the need to buy a new door because I chose the other options I gave. If he decides on a new door, I have a whole lot if information on that also from the experience of other Stovebolt members I've read over the last 15 years of being a member, from my mechanical background, my studying the issue, my fitment of Task Force doors, purchase of other "new" sheet metal and all the pros and cons of that route. That route has some different issues. Once he decides what's best, others will chime in and we can narrow down the suggested procedures. It's always better to use a good donor or to repair a repairable donor.

Okay fellas, let's keep this civil and not stray out of bounds.

Our goal is to help 59chevy36, thanks.

Those doors are not bad at all for use on a daily driver. I would be tickled to start with doors as nice as those.

No experience with them, but I don't think they are from china, I thought it was Taiwan which is better.

To answer the 59chevy36's original question on repro doors. I do have experience with them. I bought both of my doors brand new. They are made by Dynacorn, but I cannot remember which vendor I got them from. I do remember they were only around $450ish each with shipping around $150 and that was sending them to a nearby autoparts store to not go through a residential delivery surcharge. I bought them at separate times so I paid shipping twice like a dummy. The quality of them I would say is pretty good. They are not a perfect fit no. Just like every other repro part/patch I've bought they will need some work. Mostly just on the front top corners of the doors above the vent window where they meet the curvature of the A-pillar. I haven't done it yet but I will need to cut the door frame and take out about a 1/4" to get the correct gap in that area. That along with some slight twisting of the tops with a big 2x4 to get them to fit the cab slightly better.

Yours on the other hand look like they could be salvageable with a little time and patience. If my originals were half as good as those I would've patched them up and used em. Just my 0.02 though.

Thanks for the in put. I was hoping that new would just boltup and be ready to go. Meanwhile between the rain I have collected the stuff for the blaster and went to town today and got some direct to metal primer. When I get them cleaned up will post a few more pic of the worst areas.

I am assuming this is a joke. If it's not, you can still say it is and I won't know.