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| | | Forums66 Topics128,052 Posts1,055,727 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 | Anybody else have a heck of a time removing the slot headed set screw in the rear diffrential? Mine is STUCK.....big time.
1950 suburban, all original
1950 SUBURBAN / SCHOOL BUS A.K.A "THE SCHOOL RUST"
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 | Are you referring to the screw that holds the pin in place between the spider gears. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 | Yes sir. I cannot get it to budge.
1950 SUBURBAN / SCHOOL BUS A.K.A "THE SCHOOL RUST"
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 | I don’t remember them being a slot head .thought they were a bolt head .I do know they as well as newer pins would break the heads off leaving the pin stuck in . It threads in about a quarter inch then is more like a pin ,the one I had trouble with was on a newer truck and it broke leaving one thread and the pin .I was lucky used a pic to turn it out while wiggling the axle to take the pressure off .Maybee someone put a regular screw in with locktite .The tuff ones at the shop I used to work at the guys cut the pin out with a torch and would have to use a new pin and lock .yours would also have the square block that the pin goes through making it difficult to cut with the toarch. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 | Hot rod.com has pictures of a 1950 355 gear swap shows the pin and yes it is a slotted screwdriver head have you tried a little heat in case there was some lock tite. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 | No loctite. I pulled this truck out of a field where it had been sitting since 1962.
1950 SUBURBAN / SCHOOL BUS A.K.A "THE SCHOOL RUST"
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,035 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,035 | Even if there's no loctite, a little heat should help loosen things up.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 631 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 631 | Plan A........Flat screw bit witha socket and ratchet
Plan B.......Sharp chisel and catch the edge to move the fastener in the loosening direction.
Plan C......https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_36882_36882?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hand%20Tools%20%3E%20Screw%20%2B%20Nut%20Drivers&utm_campaign=GRIP&utm_content=15825&&gclid=CjwKCAjw9L_tBRBXEiwAOWVVCSWWAVolkcAISopU6ej6ZpUTvp0PL7bIJcAYn6MBuLvUArTKgIdxyxoCdRgQAvD_BwE | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,035 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,035 | An alternative to Plan C is a battery impact driver. I had a need for one on my road trip and found a nice deal on a Dewalt 1/4" hex driver with 20 V battery. I picked up a set of bits at the same time. Impact is a good thing.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 | Try a impact driver when you strike it won’t slip off and ruin the slot .You should have a little room to swing that hammer | | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 | Thanks fellas.
Plan A.....done
Plan B.....done
Plan C........up next
It's amazing how much beating I've done on that screw and the slot is still good. Must be hard stuff.
1950 SUBURBAN / SCHOOL BUS A.K.A "THE SCHOOL RUST"
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I would recommend the the impact driver and hammer. Try to get a driver that completely fills the slot. I have have made drivers from metal chisels that have the same hexagon shaft. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The older ones came with the slotted head. Ive gotten them out using the impact driver that you hit with a hammer. Then you cross your fingers & pray that it is not broken like Stevinski described. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 496 | Good news... I got ot out after hearing it with a torch.
Now, my buddy has a 52 truck and his special bolt is a half inch bolt head instead of a slot! Looks like GM figured out how stupid it was to use a slot head. He gave me the bilt headed screw and I'm better off for next time. Thanks for the help fellas.
1950 SUBURBAN / SCHOOL BUS A.K.A "THE SCHOOL RUST"
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