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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 18
M
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 18
I really could use some advice from someone in the know. I have a 52 pu and have put a camaro front cilp on and 2inch drop front spindles. The front is sitting just right. Then I tried to tackle the back by removing springs and adding 4 inch lowering blocks. That combo looked deadly so I ordered 4 inch drop monoleaf and that sent the rear end way up in the sky. The blocks go back on and sheS siting right but deadly. I call the monoleaf maker and he says I should have order the reverse eye 6 inch drop monoleafs and that I need to be carefuL about going to low and the rear wheel hitting the fender.Guys , here's what I need. With the set up I have what does it take to get the cars sitting just slightly raked? I have a camaro rear end if it matters.

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 82
N
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 82
don't know how low you want to go, but here's what I did. My '49 has a 12 bolt out of a c10 with stock springs, 2nd and 4th leaves removed,and 2" blocks. Tires are 30x9.50/15's. That puts the top edge of the tire about 3/4" above the fender lip. Rides good and still can pull my boat with out bottoming out. Good luck.


1949 chev 3100 3 window. 350hp/327/m21 4 spd, 12 bolt rear, power brakes, 3" dropped axle from Sid's. Disc brakes next.
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,445
R
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,445
NVRDONE, why did you pull out the 2nd and 4th leaves? why not just take out the first two? Does removing every other spring effect the ride height/ride differently?

Thanks.


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 82
N
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 82
I was told by a local spring shop that was the way to do it with out breaking the main leaf. Don't know if that's true, but it has worked for me for about 15 years.


1949 chev 3100 3 window. 350hp/327/m21 4 spd, 12 bolt rear, power brakes, 3" dropped axle from Sid's. Disc brakes next.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 82
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I was told by a local spring shop that was the way to do it with out breaking the main leaf. Don't know if that's true, but it has worked for me for about 15 years.


1949 chev 3100 3 window. 350hp/327/m21 4 spd, 12 bolt rear, power brakes, 3" dropped axle from Sid's. Disc brakes next.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 18
M
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thanks guys. It looks liek Im sending back the 4 in ch monoleafs and trying 6 inch mono's with a reverse eye. i hope it works!

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8
hey guys that is the reason and its tough to set up those monoleaf springs,plus they twist up way too easy for me.but then again im pushing 700 hp on the bottle.


build it to last,drive it like you stole it,enjoy life
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the 4 inch monos have bent sent back and the 6 inchers are on the way! Does anybody now how many inches the rear can be lowered before you hit the axle and rail together? Sounds like 8 inches in the limit until the frame is notched..

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1
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The fix is to replace the stock spring hangers on the frame with lower ones. I got mine several years ago. I belive the company was called the Arizona rod shop. the kit moved the spring eyes about 3 inches closer to the frame and allowed the rear to be set up with no blocks.

A
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Thats a good idea wildpig. Something to look into if I lower my truck. (no plans to until I get skinnier tires).

Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 60
T
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 60
WHAT YOU CAN DO ON A 47/53 IS USE THE FRONT AXLE
SPRING HANGER'S & PUT THEM ON THE REAR IT WILL DROP IT 6" WITH NO ANGLE CHANGE..
YOU TAKE THE FRONT AXLE HANGER & PUT IN UP INSIDE THE FRAME ON THE REAR & USE THE FRONT AXLE SHACKLE'S
YOU TAKE THE REAR HANGER OF THE FRONT AXLE & PUT IT ON THE FRONT OF THE REAR
I HAVE BEEN DOING THIS ON THESE ON TRUCK'S FOR OVER 15 YEAR'S


FRAMEUP TRUCKS - 47/55.1ST
STILL PLAYING WITH TRUCKS

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