I just acquired a 53 3100 that has been 95% fully restored. Just some minor tasks left to complete.
One item, the door locks. It has a keyed lock on the drivers side that works. No key on the pass side.
Neither side locks from inside. The owners manual says that both doors should be able to lock by putting the interior handle in the forward position. But there is only two positions available on both latches.
Is there a different door relay mechanism that has the 3 position (unlatch,latch,lock) than what is installed on my doors?
For a '53, it looks like your inner door relay is upside down. Sorry I don't have a clearer picture. Even though the relay looks like it should fit in the indent, it doesn't. Installing it upside down will limit the travel of the relay.
Thanks. I will give that a try. On a related question (and to reconfirm that I wasn’t the restorer 😉)... what do you call the drive bit necessary for those large screws holding the relay in my photo!?! The ones that look like a circle with it’s top and bottom sliced off?
For a '53, it looks like your inner door relay is upside down. Sorry I don't have a clearer picture. Even though the relay looks like it should fit in the indent, it doesn't. Installing it upside down will limit the travel of the relay.
I believe that he has an earlier model relay. They were "push forward to open and pull rearward to lock" and did ride in that indent in the door. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I looked at this thread last night and dug out my service manual. There are pics of the door relay mounted in both positions, so that's a bit confusing. I haven't looked at my doors to see which way they're mounted, although my truck is a '51. I'm assuming they changed with the outside door handle change to pushbutton type in '52.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thanks. I will give that a try. On a related question (and to reconfirm that I wasn’t the restorer 😉)... what do you call the drive bit necessary for those large screws holding the relay in my photo!?! The ones that look like a circle with it’s top and bottom sliced off?
Cuz, I’m going to need to buy one of them. Lol!
Those are called clutch head screws. You can get a set of 4 different sizes from lots of the vendors or on Amazon. Car parts stores may or may not have them.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
For a '53, it looks like your inner door relay is upside down. Sorry I don't have a clearer picture. Even though the relay looks like it should fit in the indent, it doesn't. Installing it upside down will limit the travel of the relay.
MN Smith - you nailed it!
Here’s the after photo...all latch, unlatch and lock functions in working order. Thanks to all!
Your rod is in the right place, the controller is still upside down. Three bolts attach it. The top one, the difficult one.
His "problem" is that he has a '47 relay, however his solution of mounting it upside down will work as long as you don't worry about it being held on by only 2 bolts. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Thought about getting the correct relay online, but they are only held on with two screws as well (the top of the triangle is eliminated). So I made the 47’s work. Thanks