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#1323054 08/22/2019 9:16 PM
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 147
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 147
I have some rust holes on the inner and outer cowls that needs fixin but am debating about how far to tear it down. Most of the inner and outer cowls arent bad but when I look down between them there is a hole in the bottom and some surface rust throughout (see pictures). My questions is should I just take care of the rust holes on the inner cowl and the bottom of the outer cowl or should I remove a large section of both so the interior can be sandblasted then install new inner and outer cowls? Thoughts?

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1950 Chevrolet 1/2-Ton 3100
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Not too familiar with AD but I don't see any "interior" rust out. Try to stick to the rule of only replacing rust, not a whole panel.... except where it is necessary to cut a little more to attach a patch using a more practical/favorable method. I.E. land on a ledge/spot weld flange/access for welding/backer.

At least one of your pics shows a pillar/hinge pocket not a cowl.

Interior light or heavy surface rust can be: reach-in spot blasted, wire wheeled or just scraped. Vacuumed. Then apply Rustoleum Reformer spay-on or Ospho or any type converter or encapsulator you like. That's exactly what those products are for.
Read all

I would just make a flat patch for that pillar using a left over piece from some other patch. I would use a thick used grinder wheel to round out that bad welded inside corner radius.
But most of this is from just seeing a few pics from a far away place. Your informed judgment is best. Many other members here with patch experience.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Dongray #1323074 08/22/2019 11:51 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,026
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,026
There are patch panels available for that inner cowl panel. You're on the right track there. Cut out the rust and weld in new metal. For the A pillar (below the hinge pocket) scrounge up a small piece of 16 gauge steel and cut a piece to match what you cut out to get to solid metal. Butt weld that in.

As far as the rugged weld between the A-Pillar and rocker panel, that looks pretty typical for the factory welds. I had my cab sandblasted, and there were still pockets of weld flux in those weld joints. Not quite birds**t, but close on the weld quality. If it's solid, a little filler will make it look pretty. Or like bartamos said, dress it up with a grinder.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
We discuss the use of Ospho a lot. It goes back and forth, pro and con.
If there was ever a clear call for using Ospho, your hard to get to inner parts would fit that build. Get a generic spray bottle from Ace Hardware or where ever and spray the Ospho as far as you can reach from above and below. It is very wet and will end up running to where it need to be. No need to clean up or paint afterwards. It will do its job of converting the rust (iron oxide) to inert ferrous phosphate.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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