BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 | The Green Farmer is driven very infrequently, and the current starter is pushing 25yrs and never missed a beat given a strong battery. I replaced the battery with a new one and all I get is a single click when I turn the key. Jumping with an additional running engine makes no difference and jumping from battery cable direct to the motor connection still gets nothing. Even a few loving taps with a hammer got no results. Is it just a simple dead starter? Given the above, what else could it be?
It’s a bone stock L250 with no accessories at all. Any other checks I can do before trying a replacement ?
'69 1/2T stepside, Sea Foam Green, 250 L6 w/ 3 on the tree, not an option on it, in the family since new.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | You have a dirty or loose connection somewhere on the battery cable ends. That's my bet anyway. I do give you extra credit for trying to solve an electrical problem with a hammer. That is high end methodology reserved for only the upper echelon mechanics. I fix stubborn carburetors the same way. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 | Nope, cleaned them really well, in pretty good shape to start with, plus jumping from a good battery connected to a running engine directly to the cables should eliminate that.
And thanks for the compliments on choice of tools.
'69 1/2T stepside, Sea Foam Green, 250 L6 w/ 3 on the tree, not an option on it, in the family since new.
| | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | Try attempting to start with the high beam headlights turned on. If they go out, or get very dim when the starter switch is engaged, your "new" battery has a bad internal open circuit. If they stay bright or only dim slightly as the switch is turned to the start position, your problem is probably in the starter. By 1969, I believe there was also a safety switch that required the clutch pedal to be pushed in while starting. Does your truck have that? If so that switch could have gone bad. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | "jumping from battery cable direct to the motor connection still gets nothing." Can you be a little more specific on what that means?
Generally, you can short across terminals of the solenoid to bypass ignition switch. Jump across the positive stud on solenoid to the "S" terminal. If that makes solenoid kick in and starter turn, the problem is obviously up stream. Truck in neutral and Ebrake on. Key off. Maybe this is what you meant by the statement above.
The headlight test must also be performed as well as the solenoid jump.
Your problem can be just about anything: 1. Solenoid 2. Ignition switch 3. Wiring/cable connections 4. The starter 5. The battery
.
| | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 | Following up - bought a new starter, bench tested both, old one dead as a door nail. Put the new one on, spun the motor about 1sec, then the same click. Took the new battery back to the parts house (I won’t explain why I thought maybe I killed it, that would make me look bad) and they tested it and said it was fine. Carefully cleaned all the contact points of every terminal and wire connection, cranked like crazy. Didn’t start, but it sure cranked. That led to the carburetor odyssey.
'69 1/2T stepside, Sea Foam Green, 250 L6 w/ 3 on the tree, not an option on it, in the family since new.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Check everything else before you dig into the carburetor (if you haven't already), such as spark at the spark plugs, timing, compression. They are all easier to do than working on the carburetor. My favorite saying is, "Save working on the carburetor for last. The problem is never the carburetor." This statement rings true way too often to disregard. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 | Good advice, but in this case (after starter replacement) . . . . it was the carb. Did a rebuild kit and cleaned it all and (after a float malfunction ) it runs as well as ever.
'69 1/2T stepside, Sea Foam Green, 250 L6 w/ 3 on the tree, not an option on it, in the family since new.
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | Nope, cleaned them really well, in pretty good shape to start with, plus jumping from a good battery connected to a running engine directly to the cables should eliminate that.
And thanks for the compliments on choice of tools. This is why we don't trust posters  This is why we have them do things again. Some listen, some don't. It's very hard to be gentle. Very hard to challenge their efforts. If we move past, or let them move past, the issue we think it is, we get nowhere fast. SO.......... everyone keep that in mind when HRJ, me and others get frustrated. We all try very hard to analyze and troubleshoot from home, to help others without seeing, hearing, smelling, testing or feeling the problem. Most problems on Stovebolt get fixed one way or another. It's a special group. Can I get an Amen. | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 |
'69 1/2T stepside, Sea Foam Green, 250 L6 w/ 3 on the tree, not an option on it, in the family since new.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Well stated bartamos. I made a bet that it was dirty or loose cables. What do I win? A Pepsi and a hotdog sounds reasonable to me.  Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | No Pepsi, Coke.
No Hotdog, Cheeseburger. | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | No Pepsi, Coke.
No Hotdog, Cheeseburger. Now you've done it. Alvin "Chipmunk" will surely chime in now.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 159 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2010 Posts: 159 | | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,374 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,374 | Green Farmer. it sure is nice when everything works out.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | |
| |