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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,778 Posts1,039,291 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 61 Member | Member Joined: May 2001 Posts: 61 | I bought the "How to How to Rebuild Small-Block Chevy Lt1/Lt4 Engines" book. I am somewhat of a novice (as you can see from my earlier messages). My 350 engine block is from a 1976 Chevy truck. Anyway, the book states that before I place the bearings and the crank onto the block, to be sure to place a 'ball bearing' into a particular hole near the rear crank cap? I do not know what they are talking about. I do not remember seeing this ball. Is it some sort of check valve? Is my block from an Lt1 engine? What is this ball bearing for? Help!!! | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 78 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 78 | You might want to get a book on how to rebuild an older carb'd SBC. LT1's and LT4's were used in early to mid 90's corvettes, camaros, and firebirds, and are slightly different than the conventional small block like having reverse cooling, aluminum heads, distributor-less ignition, and of course the fancy EFI. As for your question, I don't know but the ball bearing thing could be specific to the LT1/LT4. Someone who has rebuilt an old SBC will surely let you know.
----------------------------------- Rollin' Hard 1946 Chevy 1/2 ton 1959 Phord 1/2 ton 2001 Chevy 1/2 ton
| | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 Member | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 | Richie-greetings, salutations! As JeffC stated, you should get ahold of the earlier "How To Rebuild Smallblock Chevy" book. Having torn down and rebuilt a large journal 327 smallblock (for my first car, a Chevy Vega) I can positively tell you that there is NO ball bearing in the earlier motors, like yours. Perhaps it is used to restrict oil flow to where the distributor would be in an older engine? Can't say for sure, but the most important thing is to get your hands on the CORRECT literature for the engine you are building. This is particularily important to someone who hasn't done it before. Best of luck to you sir. Hope you haven't gotten any greasy fingerprints on that book so you can still return it! Regards, Wannabe 
"Don't expect anything and you'll never be disappointed"
| | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 149 Member | Member Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 149 | There is a good video that even more helpful. Here is a link to were you can order it thru Eastwood. They have one one hot rodding a small block also I have both and they clear up a lot of thinks. www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/itemdy01.asp?UID=2002123113253507&T1=46034&Dep_Key1=EngDri
"Finish the thing, do it right the first time, and drive the S.O.B.!"
1949 Chevy half ton 3100 In a kazillion pieces 2000 GMC Serria 1500 SL 4x4
| | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 61 Member | Member Joined: May 2001 Posts: 61 | I went to a machine shop today and discovered that there is a steel ball that fits into one of the holes of the block where the rear cap sits. If the ball is removed you would have direct access to the oil pressure sensor on the other side of the block. The machinist told me it was a 'freeze plug'. Thanks! I am sure I will have more to come. | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 12 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 12 | If you are rebuilding a Small Block and have a machine shop clean the block make sure that they replace that plug. If it isnt there or blows out you will lose most of your oil pressure and the oil will bypass the filter.
1953 M38A1 (Military Jeep) 1962 K10 1963 FC170 (Ugly Jeep)
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