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I'm restoring a '64 Chevy 1/2 ton Stepside, and wanted to upgrade to front discs for safety, and maybe even add a power brake booster. After looking at several upgrade kits and their price (and wiping some tears away), I decided that would have to be a future project. Well, one of my lil bro's coworkers is restoring a '65 stepside. On a trip to see how his was coming along, I noticed he had upgraded to discs, and thought he had bought one of these expensive kits. Guess what? The spindles he had came from a '73-'87 Chevy 1/2 ton! Just change out your ball joints, and presto! Disc brakes up front, for about $70 from the local junkyard. Brand new rotors will run ya about $9 each.

On closer inspection of the truck, I noticed he had 5 lug rims on the rear also, and when I inquired about those, he told me the axles - not the entire rearend, which saves some more $$$ - were donated from a '72 1/2 ton rear end, with no adjustments. Voila! 5 lugs all around. Heck, the donor '73-87's brake lines were a perfect fit, and didn't even have to have any additional bends! The power brake booster even used the same two holes for the orig master cyl, but he had to drill two holes for the lower end of the bracket. The proportioning valve hung right below the booster, unmounted to the body, so no additional holes were drilled for it.

Hope I haven't wasted all these internet bytes on something that's already widely known. Just thought somebody else might like that info, and save a few bucks for something other than brakes.

Ok, Change the ball joints to what year and why? 4 ball joints are $100 And where do you find new 2 whl drive rotors for $9?

Tony

The spindles and rotors off later model trucks ( up to 82 I think ) fit 60 to 66 Chevy / GMC truck if you use the later trucks ball joints. Even with a complete rebuild I think this set up is a lot sheaper than the after market kits, you don't get drop spindles though. You can buy whole junk trucks here for $150 to $300 to strip for parts.Booster, front brakes, power steering,rear axel, and so on. I think Jolly and Ken are the experts here on this.

Judd

Thanks , the reason I asked is I keep hearing how guys swap out the whole suspension and cross member from a 73 up truck to get discs on a 63 to 70 or so.Maybe they just want the later stuff with rubber instead of metal bushings?

Tony, I don't know why anyone would want to hack up an orig frame on something that was as 'modern' as '64, unless you were building a drag truck or something. The IFS is just too darn good on these trucks for street use, and you can get polyurethane bushings for everything on the susp. Judd's right about the parts trucks, dime-a-dozen here. Rotors are $9-$15 at any auto parts store.

Hey, Judd! Small world! I'm from Irvington Al, which is about 45 mins from Biloxi!

Believe me I'm one of the last to hack up old trucks.I have been told the cross member swap is a bolt in.No idea why you would do all that if its not necessary. The conversions requires all the parts off the donar truck like the spindles , cross link, tie rod ends, pitman arm etc. The turning radias is compromised unless 71-72 lower control arms are used.Yup not too hard. Maybe by the time you change all that stuff you might just want to swap the whole seebang. However ,I do believe the rear axle shafts are different lengths from the 60's and the 73 and up.So the rear axles sahfts may not swap out without changing the whole rear. This information is from a guy on the 67-72 Classic truck board who does these swaps.

[ 12-15-2001: Message edited by: Tony ]

I've done this swap. The reason for swapping to the later crossmember is because the front end will not align to factory specs unless you use it. And it isn't even a big deal, 4-6 bolt unbolts it from the donating truck, the same amount bolts it to the 64 frame. You don't even have to unbolt the lower control arms, just bolt it in. Press in new ball joints (spec for the later truck) and bolt on the spindles. Easy as that. Of course you will have to take the brake lines, proportioning valve, and master cylinder (& booster) from a 67-72 truck (fits without modifications) or a 73-79 truck (have to modify a bit).

Below is a message I wrote in response to another persons questions about this swap. Oh, and by the way, 70-72 axles with 5 bolt rear will swap into the 60-72 rear ends. THey are all the same - if you look under the truck, they all have a swingarm/coil suspension. But be careful, a leaf spring option was available during these years. The axles might swap, but the rear ends won't without fabrication....


A:
Well, strictly speaking you don't even need the lower control arm. You see, the upper and lower control are the same on the 60-66, 67-72, and the 73-79 (and up until 87, only they used metric fasteners from 80 - on). If you get the ball joints from a 73-79, they will press right in to the 60-66. How do I know this? - I did it on my 66. Unfortunately, the mistake I made was to not change the crossmember. The holes drilled on the 73-79 crossmember locate the lower control arm further in towards the centerline of the truck. When I went to have it aligned, they told me that they had maxed out the camber/caster adjustment, trying to get it to stock setting. Since it is only a degree or so off of the stock settings (and since I've been exceptionally busy with my job), I haven't done anything about it, especially since it hasn't increased tire wear at all. This really comes from other people that have done the swap - they tell me that it is essential to get the lower control arm, but not the upper. If I was changeing the entire mounting point (ie. crossmember) for the front suspension, I would get all of the hardware attached to it, just in case something didn't fit. If I had know this before I did the swap, I would have gotten the upper and lower arms. As it was, I found out the hard way.

I wouldn't worry to much about it adding to the cost of your swap. It seems that the more stuff I get at one time from the junkyard, the lower overall price I end up paying. Be sure to get everything you think you will need to do this swap at one time. Oh, and by the way - if you are planning to get the springs also to freshen up your front end, only go with six cylinder springs - I got the ones out of a V8 smallblock truck, and they are a little too strong for my truck - even though they did fit. Also, you will need to redrill the frame to mount the idler arm. The new one doesn't have the same angle or mounting point as the old one. Be sure to mock up the pitman arm and drag link, level it, make suer that the steering box is centered - then drill the hole for the arm. Don't be too concerned if the drag link is pretty close to the crossmember. Just cycle the drag link from steering lock to steering lock, and make sure it doesn't hit anywhere.

When I was doing this, I bought a complete suspension rebuild kit from Performance Suspension Technologies. You'll only need a kit for a 73-79, if you get the upper and lower control arms with the crossmember. If you order from them (there are a couple others, like Just Suspension). When I ordered, itold them what I was trying to do and ordered everything for a 73-79 truck, with the upper and lower control arm bushings from a 60-66. They immediately hemmed and hawed, telling me they weren't sure this would work. I asked them what would work? They said they weren't sure, becasue they had never dealt with this before - BUT, they DID have a disk brake swap kit for my truck, which they KNEW would work. I asked them how much it was, and then promptly fell down on the floor laughing. I told them to send out the kit the way I specified, and they informed me that there would be no return policy on a "jumbled" kit. I had them send it anyway. I told you this story in case they try to sell you "their" disk brake kit.

It's been almost two years since I did the swap, and I have used and abused the truck in many situations. I've never have a problem with it, even with the alignment being slightly off. It's for sure that it's a LOT safe in city traffic. I can even use it to haul a car trailer now (no electric brakes), before that it was almost too scary to comtemplate.
Q:
"Are you getting the crossmember from the 75 so that you can add disc brakes?
If you use that crossmember, then all you need are the lower control arms, the spindles,
calipers discs, pitman and idler arm plus the cross shaft and the tie rods.
That will pretty much set you up. I've done that swap and it made a world of difference."
--------------

Hey "Vaughn",
Question ... you don't need the Upper Control Arm as well ?
I'm planning this change for next Spring on my '62. ( using Drop Spindles )

Ok, lot more info.I meant the 73 and up 5 bolt axle. 2 whl drive front rotors are around $40 bucks here.For $9 each , I can resell them evry where else in the country and make a killing LOL

Bkndsdl

I moved up to Lucedale about the same distance from you though. I've been going to do the cruise in at the Sonic in Mobile for a year maybe I'll do it one Thursday this summer. I do several cruise ins around in my Buick if you see me say HI. check my web site ( link below )for Buick Picture. My truck is on Jolly's 6066 truck site ( loud ugly mostly white 65 GMC long fleet ).

http://sjmodels.railfan.net

Oh, ok. A slight misunderstanding Tony, but look what it led to! I didn't realize it was a bolt-in!

Thanx for the info, guys. I just got done removing the rearend on my frame, came in to get some sweet, cold tea, and my new e-friends have given me all the mods I need to make my truck handle like a Caddy. Well, close anyways.

Sounds great, Judd! We'll meet up sometime. That's one of my goals, to get the truck ready for the Sonic. Dunno when that'll be, just had an addition to my family - the first. That kinda takes alot of time. Not to mention my other hobby is building/flying model aircraft, and those take time to build too. Heh...don't take but a second to crash, though.....Check our club website out. ACMA website

I also have a sign company, and I sponsor a race car. Chevy, of course! Here's a link to his website. Rehwinkel racing

The Super Stock's pictures were taken on our model aircraft runway. That's my company's name, Moore Signs, on the windshield. This car has dominated the last 8 races at Pensacola's Five Flags Speedway. He's sold it, and now we're rebuilding the late model.

Keep in touch! I'm sure I'll have a bunch more questions before this thing's finished!

[ 12-15-2001: Message edited by: Bkndsdl ]

Tony,
The 73 and up rear axles were leaf spring units (slightly wider), and unfortunately the axleshafts were 1/2 to 1 inch longer than the 60-72 axleshafts. A swap may still be possible, but it is not a direct fit. I haven't tried this particular swap, nor have I heard of anyone that has attempted it (although there have been a few people who have suggested it).

You also reminded me about the shortened turning radius. I took a grinder to the spindle stops and removed enough to allow it to turn properly. I didn't need to remove very much. If anyone does this swap with the old lower control arm, don't grind on the arm, because it might weaken it. The spindle is a better place to grind because it is in a non critical area as far as stress, and the cast metal is much stronger than the bent sheet metal of the arm.

i tried a 1972 booster but the push arm wasn't long enough to reach the pedals.what did i do wrong?i want to stay six lug,where can i get nine dollar six lug rotors for my 1980 spindles?

I don' know where you can get $9 six lug rotors. I do know where you can get six lug rotors, however. Rez Engineering has them (406-727-9267). There are a couple others that have them, can't think of them right at the moment. Or, you could have yours redrilled - it will probably cost the same either way (approx $50 apiece).
Are you sure that you have a 72 booster? a 67-72 booster should have a bracket that spaces it out and UP from the firewall. It should only bolt on by TWO bolts, not four.

[ 12-17-2001: Message edited by: Vaughn ]

Vaughn, thanx for the info! I took some time yesterday after work to check out the crossmember on my truck, and sure enuf it's bolted on. I guess it pays to ask advice....

GOOD EVENING. FIRST TIME ON THE BOARD. I WAS READING THE INFO ABOUT THE SWAPS AND WONDERED IF MY PLAN WAS ANY GOOD. I BOUGHT A COMPLETE 72 LWB THAT HAS HAD THE BODY CHOPPED UP PRETTY BAD BUT PLAN ON PIRATING THE COMPLETE FRONT CROSS MEMBER, REAR END, MOTOR, TRANS, BRAKE BOOSTER, PS ASSY, AND STEERING COLUMN. I BELIEVE THAT IT WILL ALL PRETTY MUCH BOLT RIGHT IN. ANYONE'S COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

I realize that this is an old post, but I've been looking into a bone yard upgrade on my '63 similar to what's being discussed in this thread. From comments in this post it looks like the best donor is a 73 - 79 truck. Anyone have any other thoughts? Also, does anyone know if 73 - 79 (5 bolt) axles will swap into a 63 12 bolt rear end?

i put a 1980 crossmember in my 64.if you want to lower your truck it will be cheaper to buy drop spindles for a 63.1971-72 rear ends will bolt in if you use an adjustible panard bar.it is five lug and 1.5" wider.

You also get the rubber control arm bushings if you go with the 73-87 complete setup. Not only do these ride better, they are a lot cheaper than the older steel ones.

A few months back when I went to purchase a new trans for the '62, the owner was building a '70 swb fleetside in the one garage stall.

It had disc brakes at all 4 corners!! He said he got the rearend out of a Lincoln, which had rear discs, and a 5 lug posi to boot!! The only thing he had to do was order the kit from CCP to install it onto the trailing arms.

A board member off of another site I visit used the stock spindles, "A" arms, and bolted them directly to the '65 IFS saddle on the '65 C10 frame. Then he had to also use the idlerarm, and the steering rod(the item that steers the 2 front wheels ).
David

Bkndsdl,
I just picked up a 66 short box that I am rebuilding, I am in Navarre and would love to come check out the front end on your swap. I am currently building a Blown 400 small block for mine. If you dont mind maybe i can check yours out.

Barney

Bkndsdl,
I just picked up a 66 short box that I am rebuilding, I am in Navarre and would love to come check out the front end on your swap. I am currently building a Blown 400 small block for mine. If you dont mind maybe i can check yours out.

Barney

heya Barney Fyffe...

Bkndsdl started this thread back in 12-14-2001...

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-W