Hey guys, I just joined the forum because I got myself this project truck and I thought I might post progress pics and pick your brains once in a while. I think everything is original on it except for the bed which came from a donor because it used to have a flatbed on it. I plan on keeping it mostly original, but I've already scrapped the generator and put an alternator on it. I'm also going to upgrade the brakes by installing a booster with two reservoirs in the master cyl. Other than that, I'm just gonna make it perdy, but it's gonna need at least one door and floors and rockers on both sides. Also discovered that the cab roof is rotted inside right above the windshield. I've been a mechanic long enough to know better, but I still say I'm going to enjoy every minute.
Last edited by bsarts; 07/24/201912:06 AM. Reason: Edited to correct model year
Thanks, I'm pretty sure the 283 is original, and I thought I had seen a placard somewhere with the model year 1963. I'll have to verify that when I get home a week and a half from now. But indeed, the grill and the hyd. clutch have me wondering, I didn't know about the emblems....
Welcome! It doesn't matter if it's all original, you have a gem in your possession. Nice find. The hood isn't stock to that year, but again, it doesn't matter, it is technically period correct.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
Is there another version of stock guage cluster that has guages instead of idiot lights? And the inside roof repair,I haven't found any patch panels for that, do you guys know of any source for those, or am I going to have to cut up a donor?
63 is idiot lights. They are more practical than gauges. Unless you are a gauge watcher. Which I am not. Idiot lights come on at start to verify bulb, then go off. If you go gauges you will probably have to change senders. I think the various clusters physically fit 60-66.
Don't see an inner upper patch for 63. Start looking for a donor or use the cutout for a template. Can be made of several hand made pieces. Might save scrap that way. Provide good clear pics of that area of you want suggestions on fix. There are some pretty good metalmen on here.
I would be tempted to modify the 64-66 patch panel if it wasn't so expensive. 60-63 has the wrap around windshield. 64-66 has the flat windshield. If a looked carefully at both trucks, I could decide if the available patch could work.
Called home and got the vin # and it is definitely a 62' k20 and the fifth number is a 3 indicating that it was built and sold as a cab and chassis. I'm grateful that the guy I bought it from found such a nice bed for it.
Hood is correct for '62 - '66. '60 & '61 used different hood. As JoeK stated has '62 emblems & grill.
Originally Posted by DoubleDingo
Yeah, I was mistaken, I thought it was '60 - '63.
That's an easy mixup. Because 60-63 all had the upside down wing windows, and the windshield to match. So it's easy to think all the changes were then (at '63).
Is there another version of stock guage cluster that has guages instead of idiot lights? And the inside roof repair,I haven't found any patch panels for that, do you guys know of any source for those, or am I going to have to cut up a donor?
For sure, any 60-66 door, or door "patch" panel will work exactly the same. Easy to find pretty much everywhere.
I have a 62 K10 that I put power brakes in, first I found an original booster then later I put on one with a split system from a 71 3/4 ton, bolted right up. I have an automatic so the clutch master was not a problem with the later booster but I am pretty sure that the mechanical clutch linkage from later trucks will bolt right in with the correct selection of parts. That way you can keep your manual trans if you want to and still use a later booster. I put on front discs from the later truck at the same time, 1/2 ton, not 3/4.
Hope things are going well.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
Thanks, that's good to know that a later model brake booster will bolt right up, that would save me a lot of money. I'll research the mechanical linkage swap possibilities. Looks like I'll be sticking with drums all the way around as I don't see any kits for a 3/4 ton. I just got my other project out of the way so I'm gonna start in on some body work when I get home.
Finally getting around to getting this thing fixed up, bangin on some dents while waiting for parts to show up. The grill and grill support both need help, I didn't see that the grill support was full of bondo until I got into it, but it's coming along. The shape of the thing makes it real hard to get access to both side of any given dent and I had to utilize all kinds of field expedient body tools like, ax heads and pry bars, and pieces of plywood. I really like a good chunk of hickory ax handle as a punch.
Is there another version of stock guage cluster that has guages instead of idiot lights? And the inside roof repair,I haven't found any patch panels for that, do you guys know of any source for those, or am I going to have to cut up a donor?
They can be found if you search hard enough. I found a cluster from a "Big Bolt" that fit right in. Only give away that it is from a Big Bolt is the Air gauge and the Over Speed indicator light. I will eventually be replacing the Air gauge with a Vacuum gauge and I'm not going to worry about the Over Speed light. It's not hooked up to anything so it won't show unless you know what you're looking for.
Thanks, Stick, I'm on the lookout for one of those big bolts.
I've been working away with a planishing hammer on the hood and I think it's about as good as I can get it. I learned a lot about stretching the dents out with a hammer and dolly when the dent is on a radius. I don't get out much, but I was actually having fun.
Hi Bsarts, LMC sells roof panels for 60-66 chevy trucks. The roof lines are the same in all these years, the windshields and pillars are not. Doors/pillars/windshields are the same for 60-63 only and 64-66 are the same for their respective styles.
See the link or path above for reference or just google it too.
Usually it's the inner panel that rots out near the rear view mirror location.
I did a couple of these trucks, they are fun to do and you'll like it when it's done. Key is like anything: money, time and space. I had a crap load of the parts you needed, but sold most of them.
Thanks RYD, I read where someone used the 64-66 inner roof panel on a 62 and it worked out fine so I got one with the batch of panels that I ordered from Classicparts.com. But my experience with them is to be less than ideal. I put in the drivers' side outer floor panel and then noticed that it's all screwed up. The bottom edge of it is not correct and will not mate up with the outer rocker. I tried to get a little restitution from Classicparts and got nowhere. The fact that I just spent a thousand bucks onpanels from them and sent pics and measurements illustrating how defective their product was got me no leverage at all. I'm done with those people.
Then I started on the drivers' door skin and bottom replacement and screwed up my own job. I botched it up badly when I transferred the marks and cut out the bottom of the door and ended up with a huge gap but managed to save it by using a piece of copper as abacker for the welds and planishing them after each weld and it worked out well. I didn't get a pic of the finished product before I left home for work so I won't be able to show that for a couple weeks yet.
Well, I had a bit of a set-back,but was able to come back and make some good progress. I decided that the best way to remedy the inner rocker issue was to cut out the front half of it and the floor panel inner rocker portion would replace it. So I got the die-grinder and cut it out and, and as I was trying to pull the front portion of the outer floor panel out from behind the lower pillar, I learned the hard way about the burr that a cut-off wheel will leave on the bottom edge of the metal as the piece I was reefing on broke loose and my hand hit the burr and it cut through my glove and through the tendon behind the little finger knuckle. 8 weeks of recovery time later and I'm back at work, but I did manage to use some of my time off to get some work done on it.
I decided to tackle the roof above the windshield. They don't make a patch panel specifically for the pre 64s and I knew that the 64 and later patches would work with some extra effort and I think I made the right choice in not trying to utilize both ends of the patch with the sunvisor holes. I cut out about a foot from the pass. side where metal was good and had more freedom with modifying the dr. side end at the corner. I read the other threads that detailed the roof skin removal and was curious as to what I'd find in the way of mouse nests,( with this being a north Montana ranchers' truck and all). I didn't have a mouse house, I had a mousy condominium complex, complete with a deceased former resident. Now I know why the original seat was replaced, because all the stuffing got tore out and put into the roof! It was kind of a nasty job cleaning it out because of the several decades worth of mouse poo packed into the seam above the windshield, also dangerous because that dried out stuff can make you sicker than hell if you breathe in the dust.
Anyway, I got the inner and outer pieces put in and had to fab a little piece for the pillar beyond where the roof patch would reach, it looked kinda rough before it went in but, considering my abilities and experience, I was pretty proud of it, it filled the hole and looked pretty good when it was welded in. I cleaned up under the roof skin and painted it with some rust converter and put some insulation up there and welded it back down.
