The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (68ironhead, JW51, 1 invisible), 574 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,776
Posts1,039,271
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 203
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 203
I am replacing tie rod ends and getting ready to do an alignment. When I put the new ends in the old tie rod, it gets REALLY hard to thread at about 3/4" away from the length I need on each side. I don't want to ruin these new ends. Is there a source for a new 1 ton tie rod? I tried Classic Parts, LMC, Brothers and Jim Carter with no luck. Worst comes to worst, if someone can tell me the thread information I can have RuffStuff Offroad fabricate one.


1953 GMC 1-Ton Pickup with 350 and 700R4
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 203
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 203
I found that the threads are .812-18. If nothing else I found some fab shops online that may fabricate one.


1953 GMC 1-Ton Pickup with 350 and 700R4
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 479
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 479
When I needed to replace the tie rod on my 53 one ton I got them from NAPA, took a couple of days to get them in. Of course, that was 10 years ago, but you might check.

Tim


I am currently digging back in to a 1953 3800 (one ton) with a nine foot bed. I've owned it since 1979, and drove it until 1982 (or so). My wife got me involved in restoring it back in 2002, got the body removed and the frame redone, then things came up. Now I am retired and starting again. If anyone is interested I have photos on Imagur ( https://timwhiteblues.imgur.com/ ). I live way back in the woods in the Ozarks on 40 acres at the end of a 2 1/2 mile private road.

Tim
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 203
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 203
Napa can get the ends but not the rod. I did find a tap for the right hand thread if worst comes to worst, but nothing on the left hand thread.


1953 GMC 1-Ton Pickup with 350 and 700R4
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Probably can order a LH tap from McMaster-Carr, etc.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Are the new ends the same length as the old ones? That may be the cause of them hanging up, needing to screw further into the rod socket.

Take your old tie rod ends and file a flute or two in them similar to what a tap looks like, and use them to chase the threads in the rod. It's probably just rust and gunk that's making the new ends hard to screw in. Use lots of WD40 or other lubricant. Also be sure the clamps are released if the rod sockets are split.

.812 - 18 would be 13/16-18 and I didn't see that size on the McMaster-Carr site.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,363
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,363
If you have a Fastnal store near you the should be able to source a l.h. tap.


BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
I suggested the "tap" made out of the old ends, because the McMaster-Carr left hand taps around the size required were $50-$80 each. eeeek
I know a guy can never have too many tools, but holy cow! And for likely a 1-time use.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 479
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 479
My local O'Reilly store loans out a thread restorer kit, a bunch of special files to match most threads. I used it to clean up the threads on my drive shaft carrier. Worked great, and while they "sell" it to you when you pick it up, they return your money (or cancel the charge card) when you return it. Might be the easiest way to solve your problem.

Tim


I am currently digging back in to a 1953 3800 (one ton) with a nine foot bed. I've owned it since 1979, and drove it until 1982 (or so). My wife got me involved in restoring it back in 2002, got the body removed and the frame redone, then things came up. Now I am retired and starting again. If anyone is interested I have photos on Imagur ( https://timwhiteblues.imgur.com/ ). I live way back in the woods in the Ozarks on 40 acres at the end of a 2 1/2 mile private road.

Tim
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Another way to chase the threads is to find a smaller diameter tap with the same thread pitch and use that. The files are likely for external threads (that's all I've seen). They would have the teeth that cut along the length of the file, not across it, but I may be wrong on that.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 203
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 203
Thanks for all the replies. I used the old ends as taps but that wasn't the issue. What I determined was the Napa tie rod ends are .002" more diameter than the originals, measured them with a micrometer. Poor quality parts.


1953 GMC 1-Ton Pickup with 350 and 700R4
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
Male threads of that size have more than 0.002” tolerance on the OD of the threads.
Pitch diameter is difficult to measure without special tools.
Pitch diameter is a tighter tolerance and much better data point for determining correct size of male threads, or if it’ll fit a standard size tapped hole.

I wouldn’t assume the new parts are out of tolerance by measuring the OD and finding only a 0.002” discrepancy.
0.002” is half or less the thickness of a standard hair.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

Moderated by  Dusty53 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 2.348s Queries: 14 (0.058s) Memory: 0.6553 MB (Peak: 0.7444 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 14:28:50 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS