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Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 31
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'Bolter
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I have a few questions regarding the stock torque tube axle for a 1941 Chevrolet AK series 1/2 ton.

1) Does anyone know if the differential gears between the stock 1941 Truck and stock 1941 passenger car interchange? I have a stock 1941 torque tube rear axle for a 1941 Chevrolet pass. car.

2) If the differential gears interchange, is it advantageous to use the lower drive ratio from the passenger car in the truck axle. I have not done a swap like this before, but I think it's doable.

3) If I keep the torque tube from the 1/2 ton in the truck (instead of swapping pass. car gears to it) what maintenance things should I be looking at in order to get it working properly in today's world (i.e., what modern gear lubricants? What seals to replace, etc.?).

Thanks in advance for your help....Charles Evans
Attachments
Chevrolet Rear Axle.jpg (128.11 KB, 75 downloads)
Passenger Chev Axle.jpg (282.43 KB, 73 downloads)


1941 Chevrolet AK 1/2 retrofitted with a 235 engine
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'Bolter
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Another couple of questions regarding the above.

This style differential has through bolts going through the carrier to hold the differential in. I have to remove the nuts and bolts and differential cover in order to get to the differential so I can release the drive shafts to replace axle seals (this is definitely one time I wish I was working with tapered axle shafts--much easier to replace axle bearing seals!).

Once the nuts and bolts are removed is the differential fairly susceptible of falling out of the case?

Also, can gear lash of the differential be manually adjusted so the gear mesh is close to the factory tolerance?

I have a 1941 Chevrolet Car and Truck Manual to help guide me on this. But any advice or reference to a website where major service has been done to a torque tube rear axle would be appreciated. If I knew more, I would make a video to document what I am doing if that helps.



1941 Chevrolet AK 1/2 retrofitted with a 235 engine
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
I don't believe the bolts go all the way thru. Separate bolts for the cover and studs and nuts for the differential carrier if the '41 axles are like the later '47-54 truck torque tube axles.
In other words, you can take the cover off to access axle shaft locks without affecting the differential mounting.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
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Thanks for the quick response Keven and will do. They look like through bolts because the nuts on one side are in line with the bolts on the other. But I think you're right. I will start by taking the rear cover off.

I may eventually have a question about the axle shaft spacers used in the differential when I have the cover off. I see on page 88 of the 1941 shop manual there are several sizes if they are needed. For now, my immediate task will be to get to the axle bearing seals behind the brake mounting plate. I want to get measurement on the seals so I can get the right size when I mail order them.



1941 Chevrolet AK 1/2 retrofitted with a 235 engine
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'Bolter
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One final question.

At the very least I want to change out the rear axle bearing seals on this truck so that differential fluid won't gush onto new brake linings when I install them.

Are axle bearing seals pretty much a standard part for a 1941 Chev 1/2 ton AK series, so I can be pretty sure I will get a part that fits and seals if I order it from a supplier, or is it a part that really needs to be measured before I order?

Even though my 1941 Chev manual does not have a blow apart photo, it does mention a "leather seal" so I am pretty sure there is a seal under the brake backing plate that I can get to once the half shaft is removed.

I am trying to keep the truck mobile, so I can push it around, and only want to lay up the axle job for a day or so at most.


1941 Chevrolet AK 1/2 retrofitted with a 235 engine
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Apparently rear wheel bearing seals were the same from '33-'62.
Available from Jim Carter Here and probably your FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store).
According to RockAuto's site it would be a NATIONAL 414045. They don't list it under '41 trucks, but do for '51's.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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