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| | | | Joined: May 2019 Posts: 17 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2019 Posts: 17 | Hi there:
I am trying to remove the engine, 235, and the 4 speed tranny out as one piece. The front clip is off but I am having hard time moving the engine using the cherry picker. The engine is almost touching the firewall and tranny mount are like c-clips over the cross member. Is there a trick as to how to remove the engine and transmission all together? Tranny cross member seems to be rivetted in therefore it would be a pain to grind all these rivets. I also prefer to remove the engine and tranny as one unit since thee is more than couple of inches of dried gunk all over every single bolt.
I appreciate the tip.
1953 GMC 150: new member 1967 Chevy C20, 4 wheel 8 lug disc, 350 engine with Fitech carb (in progress) , T5 1972 Chevy Nova, 4 door sport sedan in the making  1979 Chevy Camaro Z28, 5,3 Vortec and TH350, 4 wheel disc and Hydroboost; Just about becoming summer daily driver
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 | The only way that MIGHT work, and I'm not sure it will, would be to remove the top of the transmission with the shift tower and shift stick attached. That might allow you to lift the transmission high enough to clear the firewall crossmember. Virtually nobody does it that way- - -does the truck have an open driveline or a torque tube? An open driveline setup only requires removing the front universal joint and four bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing to drop the trans, but be aware it weighs about 120 pounds. Using an engine lift through one of the cab doors is the easy way to handle the transmission without hurting yourself or bending something. I've also used an 8 foot piece of 4X4 post between the open windows of the cab and a cable come-along to remove and install transmissions.
Jerry
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| | | | | Joined: May 2019 Posts: 17 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2019 Posts: 17 | Thank you Hotrod Lincoln.
It is open drive line and I have already removed the drive shaft and the shifter handle. I guess I have to separate the transmission. How about lifting the cab off a little since I plan to remove the cab at one point?
Also, how do you remove these steering column? from the box? I don't see any rag joint.
Thanks again
1953 GMC 150: new member 1967 Chevy C20, 4 wheel 8 lug disc, 350 engine with Fitech carb (in progress) , T5 1972 Chevy Nova, 4 door sport sedan in the making 1979 Chevy Camaro Z28, 5,3 Vortec and TH350, 4 wheel disc and Hydroboost; Just about becoming summer daily driver
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 | Pull steering wheel, unbolt the box from the frame. Slide out column assembly. Regarding gunked up bolt head and nuts: Get a couple sacrificial sockets and grind around the perimeter for a sharp edge and tap through caked up grease. This worked for me when i had a bunch of bolts to remove and didnt want to take the time to clean each bolt for a socket to fit.
Last edited by tom moore; 07/16/2019 10:29 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 | I find it pretty easy to first disconnect and drop the gearbox. Then pull the motor.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,518 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,518 | The bellhousing mounts are to be unbolted from underneath not from the side, just one bolt per side then the entire mount slides off the rear crossmember and stays attached to the bellhousing.
1953 Chevrolet 3100261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY GalleryVideo of the 261 running1964 GMC 1000305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 14 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 14 | I just did what you are trying to do. I unbolted the transmission 1st, and removed it. Then from the underside of the crossmember I unbolted the 2 bell housing bolts, then the front mounts. I then disconnected the push start assembly, hoses, electricals, and it pulled out easily. I took the time to scrape away at the grease and also used simple green. | | |
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