54' 3600. Im pulling the fenders off and the inner one has these bolts here. Are these accessed from in the Cab? If so mine are just spinning and going nowhere. Anyone hot any tips on how to access these?
They are accessible from inside the cab. Those rectangular nuts in your photo are welded/staked to the inner fender. They don't appear to be spinning or loose in your photo, though. If you can, you might consider snapping the heads off them, and deal with the weld-on nuts and remnants of the bolts once the inner fender is off. Replacement weld nuts are available from McMaster-Carr or other suppliers.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Do as Tim suggested but instead of trying to remove the bolt try tightening in just a tiny bit. Many times that motion will loosen the bolt and allow you to remove it.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
But he said the bolts were spinning, indicating that the bolt or nut threads are completely stripped, although the pic doesn't indicate that (maybe it was a "before" shot). Both Tim and Martin's suggestions are good if the threads are frozen. Tighten and loosen as Martin suggested sometimes works, although by a couple of cycles, I usually find the head in the socket with the threads still engaged in the nut. In this case, it would at least get the truck apart. On my truck, the floorboard (or lack thereof) allowed the inner fenders to come loose. I did have to re-weld a couple of the weld-on nuts.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If original, the heads should take a flat screwdriver. This creates a problem since you can't apply much torque to those type of screw heads. It really isn't necessary for these bolts to have that kind of head since the thick, spongy padding under the floor mat will easily hide a hex head even with a washer under it. Grind the heads off with an angle grinder, then take the inner fender to the bench where you can more easily spray them with Kroil or similar, or apply heat to the captured nut, and so that you can get vice grips on the exposed threads (visible in your pic) and easily unscrew them. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
The bolts holding the inner fenders to kickboard on my truck were hex, and I'm pretty sure they were original. The LF fender was replaced but the right was original. But either slotted heads or hex can be ground off like you suggest. Much easier to work on stuck bolts when you're not laying on your back underneath or trying to squeeze under the dash.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Just danced this jig about a month ago. Wire wheeled the threads 1st then applied heat, heat and heat which saved the day for me.
Ended up 2 of the 3 captured nuts broke loose in the process (thats where vice grips come in handy) and I ended up using flat washers, lock washers and nuts as replacements (sorry purists, LOL). Good luck Dave
Ended up 2 of the 3 captured nuts broke loose in the process (thats where vice grips come in handy) and I ended up using flat washers, lock washers and nuts as replacements (sorry purists, LOL). Good luck Dave
Well Dave, that does it. You're out of the club. Not a big problem though. Not very many left in that club anymore...
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission