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| | | | Joined: May 2018 Posts: 31 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2018 Posts: 31 | Does anyone have a source for axle shaft bolts? These are the 7/16-14 bolts used from 36 to 39 on the 1.5 tons (GM #595646). Only about 1/2 the bolt is threaded (I assume to provide more shear strength on the shank). The bolt houses don't seem to have them and I cant find anything like them online. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | what do the original bolts look like?
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,113 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,113 | What's the actual application. Are they wheel studs? Or do they bolt the axle flange to the hub (as on a full floating axle)? This shows them to be 1-3/8" long per the Part number you posted, but is unclear on the application. If they're axle shaft flange bolts, I wouldn't worry too much about the unthreaded portion, as if they're torqued properly, the axle isn't going to move. I would suggest as bartamos did that you get longer bolts and cut them to the proper length so they don't bottom in the threaded hole in the hub. You won't find a 1-3/8" long bolt at a hardware store or fastener shop. They'll have to be cut anyway. I would suggest grade 8 bolts for adequate strength.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: May 2018 Posts: 31 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2018 Posts: 31 | Thanks for all the replies. These bolts are for the rear axle flange to hub. One side is original but the other wheel has the original bolts replaced with studs, lock washers and nuts.The studs had to be removed because the wheel bearing race is removed by tapping on the race with a punch through these bolt holes. Removing the studs was a pain and I wanted to replace them with original style bolts like the other side.
I did cut down some grade 8 cap screws to come up with a functional replacement with the same amount of unthreaded portion. They will function fine. They just don't look like the originals because the old 1938 bolts have a taller head. Of course,no one will notice but me. | | |
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