The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Need Picture of Dash of Tilt Cab

I am hoping to find someone with a 1969ish Tilt Cab dash that shows the factory location of the cigarette lighter. I suspect it was between the radio cutout and the steering column, about level with the radio knobs but I would like to be sure before I cut a hole.

Thanks in advance.
Dan

I have a 67 GMC 9500 tilt cab.
I'll go out and get a picture now.
But being a firetruck, would it have a cigarette lighter?

Don

That would be great. Thanks much in advance.

Well, this one did not have it. It does have an ash tray however.

I don't intend to use it to light cigarettes, just as a power outlet. I don't know if I can get a correct lighter knob, I have not looked for it yet but maybe one of the reproduction places could supply that. I have an original lighted socket, it will light up with the dash lights.

There is a really old ALF truck in the fire engine club I belong to, we just installed a new alternator in it. It will be a while till it is presentable, it was given free to a young fellow so you can likely tell the shape it is in.

Sorry I took so long, but lets see what these look like.
Remember, this is a 67 GMC and it did have an empty hole that could have been were a lighter may have been.
Hope these show up.

Don

My 1970 T-60 Fire Engine didn't have a cigarette lighter.

My 1970 T-80 Winch Truck had a hole above the top left corner of the heater controls that could have been a lighter at some point in time. It's hard to see in the picture...just above and to the right of the ign key switch.

I no longer own these trucks so can't help with any more pictures...

Mike B

One more to show the cab of the "67".

I was typing while Don was posting...The hole I was trying to show is the exact hole Don shows in his second picture...

Mike B

Not trying to steal the thread, but Mike, Your 70 cab looks the same as my 67.
Looks like you have a hand brake coming off the dash. Could that be a PTO lever?
Also what is the round thing on top of the dash/

Back on topic.
Hope the pictures help you out Sweepleader!

Don

These are very good, exactly, (well almost, since it would have been nice to see a lighter installed) what I was looking for. Thanks to both of you!!

Nice to see the factory dash panel on the right, mine is aftermarket, with the tach and other stuff. I did not know for sure that existed. I suspect that John Bean changed it so they could have a tach on the pump panel and not worry about compatibility with the factory stuff.

Anyway, thanks again for the trouble.
Dan

Glad you like them and they can help.
Let me know if you need anymore detailed pictures.

Don

The Cabs were for the most part the same from 1960 til the end of production (1985?)...

The Hand Parking Brake is the silver knob next to the gear shift lever and the black round knob is the winch control (In - Out), the PYO was also on the console and was a standard cable operated red PTO knob.

The round thing on top of the dash is an electric trailer brake rheostat with manual lever. The controller would be set for the load and in a panic you would pull the lever to get instant help in braking, just like the car and small truck set-ups.

Sweep, John Bean normally installed a separate Sun Tach for the fire control panel, it would have a control box mounted somewhere near the engine...

Lets see some pictures of the truck!

Mike B

Both tachs are Sun but I have not seen a control box, I know what you are talking about regarding the box. I have not traced the wiring for them but they appear to be connected directly to the coil, there are a lot of wires there. I am a little nervous about that as I intend to install an HEI distributor and while it has a tach terminal, I have never used it in other than an OEM situation. I don't know why Bean would have not used the factory tach or the factory gas gauge, it is taped over in the original location and an aftermarket IH style gauge and sender were installed with the aftermarket tach. Of course the gauge is funky, works sometime, and the terminal on the sender is stuck, cannot remove the wire as the stud turns in the sender. I am thinking about replacing the sender with a Chev and enabling the original gauge in the dash. In the mean time, I have a stick for checking the fuel level, seems pretty reliable.

The Chev Steel Tilt Cab was built from 1960 to 1980 when Chevrolet quit selling heavy trucks. I don't know about the GMC version, perhaps they went longer. I have seen a couple different dashes but I am not sure if that was due to the year of manufacture or Chev/GMC leading to the differences. Same thing on the grills, a couple changes with Chev/GMC being different.

I will get some pictures of the truck soon.

Is your gas tank in the stock location or under the tail board? If it's at the rear then it's a custom Bean tank and it's easier to adapt something else that works for them no matter what chassis they install their body on. If you have a mid-shaft pump then it may have an IH parking brake on the back of the transfer case.

Now that you mention it, the grill, parking lights and dash did get updated as production went on, but for the most part they are hard to tell the year at a quick glance.

Mike B

Yes, the tank is in the back, 50 gallons or so. Clark 5 speed into the pump, with the brake on the back of the pump. Only 6200 miles so far, I am not worried about wearing out that brake!

Here are a couple of pictures:

And the pump panel tach.

I have new lettering coming for the outside, and a buff job to bring back the paint. The exterior shots are old, I have suction hoses now and a ladder for the right side.

Nice truck!

Is that the cigarette lighter hole is right below the fuel gauge?

Does your truck also have the John Bean High Pressure Pump?

Mike B

Thank you, the truck is in terrific shape. The paint is dull but there is "no" rust on it anywhere. Oh, there are a few chips and scrapes that have a little rust color but no blisters, holes or lace work at all. The only operational problems are the "volume/pressure" valve and the primer pump are both rusted solid from lack of use. I maybe able to fix the primer but I am pretty sure the volume valve is a goner. It is in the volume position which is fine, the pump works great with it set that way. The inside of the tank is bad but it still holds water.

That's the hole I am going to use so it will be a "cigarette lighter hole" very soon!

Yes it has a High Pressure Fog system although it only has a single short HP hose as a previous owner allowed the hose to freeze and there were many breaks in it when I got it. I salvaged some of the hose that was not broken but I think the longest piece I have is about 20 feet, out of 400 feet that was on the truck. At $9 a foot, it will be a while before I buy new. The HP system works fine with a short hose, other than the gauge was also frozen. It seems that even people to whom you explain that gauges are not saved by opening the pump drains don't get it. I pull the gauges in the fall and replace them in the spring.

The steering wheel in the picture is not the original, I took that off to preserve it as it is absolutely perfect. I wanted to try a suicide knob and did not want to mess up the wheel. I drive a Ford tilt with a knob at the club I belong to sometimes and the knob is the way to go. I have not found a "good" knob so it looks like I will have to make something that is secure but does not damage the wheel.
Dan

Glad to hear you have a cigarette lighter location figured out!

My pressure/volume valve is hung up as well...not worth the effort to fix it as I never intend to use it in the pressure mode. My high pressure does work, but has a few leaks at the seals.

I have the owners/ maintenance manual if you need a copy, PM me.

Mike B

Thanks for the offer of the manual, I have 2 originals that were delivered with the truck.

Well Dan, you started this thread and it looks like only three of us have any experience with these tilt cab overs.
Should I post up some more picture?

Now for an off topic question.
How is the throttle linkage, cable or steel sleeve?
Mine is the steel sleeve and has caused me issues in the past by sticking WOT.
Makes for some interesting driving.

Right now it is stuck in the yard from all the rain this spring.
Hopefully it's dry enough now, to at least move it to more solid ground.

Don

That's a cool ladder, and I like the steps you have to get in the cab. Mine is 2T so maybe it is a smidgen lower, 8.25x20 tires. You also have tow hooks, I have nothing on the front. I am jealous.

It looks like you need a bigger tractor. I can lift mine one wheel at a time about an inch or two with a 3t floor jack I have. I might try that, to fill in under the wheels, including the front. Likely need a steel plate under the jack.

I have a pull cable for throttle, it is problematic. It is the only thing I have seen on a GM. A buddy has a Ford with linkage that has less friction but much more play so it is not better. I don't know what you mean by "steel sleeve"

At first mine was really bad. I made a new carb end bracket to line things up better and I removed a mounting clip over the radiator to allow the cable to take whatever shape it wanted to. I also lubed the crap out of the cable and now it is drive-able. I have plans to make a hydraulic linkage for it, to get rid of the friction of the cable. That will come along when I install the Q-jet carb and HEI ignition, maybe next summer.

I'll get some more pictures of the engine and linkage later today.
I'm 6'2" and the bottom of the door windows are that far off the ground.
With it sunk a few inches in the front, it is a little easier to get into.
Weighed it a few years ago at a local grain storage scale.
With me in, no water in the holding tank and a half tank of gas.
It weighed 25,800 pounds.
Going out now and see if it will come out of the shallow ruts it's in.

Oh, and the tractor is a New Holland TS-100, 100 HP with fluid in the tires.
Wish it had front wheel assist.

Read about it in my sig.
Don

Got some more pictures today after moving it in the yard.
The front end was sunk down farther that the duels on the back end.
But with the dry ground, backed it up about 5' and cut away from the holes that the front end sank in.
Now I have some yard repair to do.
Measured the door window sill on solid ground and it is 6' 5" from the ground.
Took some more pictures of the 637, inside the cab and the throttle linkage.

Don

A few more.
You can see the sleeve type throttle linkage in the first picture.
When you pull the cab back down, the pipe slides over the rod and stops at that small hose clamp.
Have to keep it clean and greased real good for the throttle not to stick open.
If it sticks open when at FOT, I have to turn the key off.
But be ready for a really loud backfire and a lot of smoke.
It will draw the cops to you right away.
Don't ask me how I know!

Don

That is a strange throttle setup, I can see why you might have trouble with it.

Mine is about 5' 9" so it is a lot lower than yours, I would not have expected that much difference. It looks like there is a fender extension on yours that mine does not have, the cab may be mounted higher. My exhaust goes out between the frame rails, standard center dump manifolds.

Does yours have access doors behind the passenger seat and in the package shelf? Mine does for dipstick, oil filler and rad cap access. I see your dipstick is behind the engine, I bet the rad cap is back there on the tank. I might have to move my fuel filter, unlike yours, it is buried high up under the truck, beside the trans. Very tough to get to, same filter. I suppose I may never change it again...

I think your engine way forward of where mine is, my air filter is on the carb with plenty of clearance to the console. There is no hump in my floor.

I will try to get the same views of mine and post them to compare.
Dan

Dan
I will have to look again on where the duel exhaust runs, but I think they are inside the frame rails and not connected.
It does have that access door on the shelf, but it opens and you cannot access anything.
It has duel oil bath breathers and a big 2 barrel carb that will suck the money out of your pocket when you drive it.
3 to 4 MPG. 5 rolling downhill.
Tilt the cab over and you have access to everything including the ignition switch and choke.
Stand right next to the motor and start it.

When you tilt the cab, make sure it is in neutral, or the gear shift may block the cab from coming back down.
With the cab up and the tranny is in gear and maybe in a bind. You can't get to the clutch to release back to neutral.
Also, DO NOT, open a door when tilted. The doors are heavy and will mess the balance of the cab.
Just some tips I learned the hard way.
I'll think of some more latter

Looking forward to seeing some more pics and I'll get some more if you want them.
Added a few from a couple years ago!
Don King

Wife took the first picture when I first drove it into the driveway.
Second picture the wife also took of our son climbing the fully extended 65' ladder.
It puts you way up there!

Don

Don, on a different subject--is that yellow '54 Plymouth the one you were trying to sell Ron? Looks to be in good shape. My folks had one when I was growing up.

Yes Rich it is.
Bought it in early 1975 I was 19.
The green one is a 1954 two door Pontiac with the straight eight flathead.
Both are in really good original shape and have not been run for 10+ years.
Drove both of them and parked them where they sit now.
If someone would offer me some cash for either one, I would probably take it.
Take notice Ron, you could have a pair of 54's. Trips if you so dared.

But we are way off topic and Dan, if you want I'll delete this post.
Another pic just to bring us back some.
Don

Sounds like you guys are discussing a picture of a Steel Tilt Cab to me, I have NO problem with that, seems right on topic to me.

Dan
The GMC does fit in the shop, but barely. The ladder hangs over the Pontiac.
Needless to say, I have to move the GMC if I want to do anything at all in the shop.
Including just walking around.
What is that saying I have read in someone's sig. "When I die, I hope my wife does not sell everything, for the price I told her I paid for it"

Don

I heard that... :{)

I'm the one who took it off topic. My apologies.

Here is a couple of pictures of my engine compartment. I think you can see how much farther back my engine is and that my shifter is much shorter. The engine mounts look stock, I doubt that they have been modified. It looks to me like your alternator is about where my radiator is. My alternator is behind the support for the console. I wonder why they did that.

The close-up is to show my throttle cable, I made a new bracket for the carb end to line the cable up straight. That took a LOT of friction out. I also removed a clip over the radiator so the cable now finds its own path and is not forced into such a tight curve when the cab is lowered. I have plans for a hydraulic linkage for when I get a roundtoit.

Here's a shot of my 1970 T-60 throttle to the 427 V8...looks like the engine is set back just like your SBC.

What year and size is your tilt cab? Both that I had were 5+2 with the bent gear shifter.

Mike B

Mike, yours looks very similar to my '69 T50. '69 was the first year for the 350. Mine has 5 spd Clark with direct high gear, singe spd rear. 3 trucks, three shifters, better not break a shifter, I bet parts would be tough.

Your cable looks very similar to mine after I changed it. Yours is plastic coated, mine is bare steel.

Don's earlier GMC must have been decided to need something thus they moved the engine back. I always wonder about such things, why did they decide to do something one way then change their minds? For me, it looks like the engine to the rear would make fixing things easier and maybe that is all it was.

I see mine has no flap around the front of the radiator, Mike's does. Mike's air cleaner is much higher, there is a spacer under it, mine sits on the carb, Don's is remote.

With this many differences in 4 years, it makes me curious to see a 1960 and a 1980, Chev and GMC.

I would really love to have these three parked next to each other and argue with you guys about which is best!! He, he. :{)

Dan
You won't get any argument from me about which one is best. It's not the one I have!
I would like to go to a cable throttle. The slide system is a PITA.
As for the engine location, that may be because of the size of the 637, the GVRW of 32,000 # and the aerial ladder.
Fuel pump is mounted on the top front of the engine with the 10"+ arm pointed down.

Now for a question for you and Mike.
The input drive shaft spline, to the pump transfer case has only about 3/4 inch engagement and is worn bad.
It looks to be designed that way.
I get bad vibration at 45 MPH. Top speed is about 55 downhill.

How much spline engagement do your trucks have?

Don

I don't know about the slide system, looks bad to me, but the cable system I have is poor. In spite of my rework resulting in great improvement, there is still a tremendous amount of friction so the pedal sticks up and down to a degree. You have to push past where you want it, then back off and you have to release past where you want it and push again. Far from ideal. I have a couple of small air cylinders that I am going to use to build a hydraulic linkage.

I used a small master cylinder and a clutch slave cylinder from some import to make a hydraulic link for my '65 G10 Chevy Van with a 350 in it. Worked great, very smooth, difficult to adapt the parts though. I think these smaller cylinders will be better. I would offer you my cable but I don't think it is the way to go, in any case it would certainly be too long and cause more trouble than on my truck. Don't hold your breath waiting for me to get this new setup working, it might be a while.

I will crawl under and check the spline when I get a chance. Not sure how to tell the engagement short of taking it apart, I will try for pictures. A local drive shaft shop should be able to fix your shaft and splines.

Do both of your trucks pump? Mine does on "Volume", the selector valve is stuck there, no "Pressure" on the main pump. The Bean High Pressure system works fine other than the hose is short. Previous owner allowed the hose to freeze and I was only able to salvage about 50 feet out of 400. New hose is $8-$9 a foot, not buying much of that soon.

I bet we could get a good argument going, gotta figure out how to get the trucks together first, eh?

I took a look at my shafts and you can see by the pics that they are very different from each other. The one with all the spline showing is the trans to transfer box shaft, the one with the brass valve behind is the transfer to rear end, and the one with the spring above is the PTO for the high pressure pump.

I don't know how much engagement there is with that first one, it does look scary. The exposed spline is about the same length as the female side of the joint, perhaps 6" each. The other two look "normal". I tried to wiggle the one side to side and got nothing, my truck only has 6200 miles so even if it were not engaged very far, it might still be tight.

I wonder if they got shafts with long splines on them so they could be cut to length at installation... I don't like that idea but there are a lot of things that Bean did that I would not do. I am hoping yours is an anomaly and mine is not like it.

I'm limited on pictures already takes as I sold the fire engine years ago. The wife wouldn't ride anywhere with me, she didn't like nothing in front of her but the windshield

My rear shaft has lots of spline showing.

There should be a grease bleeder hole in the yoke at the U-joint. Slide a piece of baling wire up in it as a gauge and see where it bottoms out.

Mike B