Just bought a 235 engine to rebuild. I wondered if I can install the 235 distributor in my 216 motor until I get around to rebuild the 235. The existing distributor in my 216 has Petronix fitted and I want’t to try running points again.
Thanks Chris
Last edited by ThreeSixHundred; 06/29/20199:11 PM.
Certain years of stovebolt engines have steel camshafts and other cams are made of cast iron. One of the part number crunchers will be around shortly to explain which distributor gears are safe to run, and which ones will cause wear problems. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
What is the distributor number under the cap? In my old delco parts catalog, the 55-62 2403 is the service replacement for quite a few distributors from 47 or so and up.
Are OK I thought that may be a thing, cast iron or steel. The engine is at work so I want to double check my serial number rather than give the wrong information. I will report back when I have that next week
I had a look at the engine today and got some numbers and will have ago at decoding them later. But just thouyght I would upload the pictures as I know some people actually know these by hearts !
Thats fantastic information tthanks for the information and links. I will pop over to where I am storing the engine and have another look for the serial numbers. The engine is very dirty so I will need to do some scraping LOL.
Regards Chris
Last edited by ThreeSixHundred; 07/05/201910:51 AM.
The actual engine serial number is on a flat machined pad just left of the distributor housing mount.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Keep in mind, engine circa is usefull but many engines have had other cams installed too. So it is entirely possible to have a steel cam in a later block and a cast cam in an early block, the fool proof way is to look at the gear on the cam and then match the gear on the distributor.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Thanks for replies I think it should be possible to look down into the hole left by the distributor and see the cam teeth. I saw some information about this on HIE website. So i will make a gauge to stick down the hole.
Thanks Chris
Last edited by ThreeSixHundred; 07/05/20193:29 PM.
Thanks for the information. That’s very useful informations as I will be rebuilding the 235 as a possible replacement to my 216 although not decided yet. Interesting that the code comes up as a car as I know the guy pulled it from a C10 truck he imported here to the UK as he was fitting a V8 instead.. who knows what happened in the past etc
Probably be asking a lot of questions about this engine Regards a rebuild. Unfortunately beggars can not be choosers when it comes to truck parts here in the UK as it’s all special import.
To quote from a Hotrod Magazine article of 1955 in which Mc Gurk tests and modifies a 261 truck engine: "All Chev six chilled iron lifters can be identified by their plain lifter bodies as compared to the single groove on the hardenable iron lifters." Earlier Chevs used forged steel camshafts and chilled iron lifters. Later engines used cast iron cams and hardenable iron lifters. Do not use hardenable iron liifters on forged steel cams. That combination lasts about five minutes according to McGurk.
The same holds true for distributor gears. A steel gear must be used with a steel camshaft (PN1865180 superseded many times no doubt), identified by the plain gear. Cast iron gear must be used with cast iron camshaft. The iron gear is identified by the single groove on the gear shank. The two will not mix. I do not know the year in which Chev changed over to cast iron cams but McGurk says 54 and later 235s all used cast iron cams. I would not assume a 216 has a steel cam anymore. Hopefully is someone changed to a cast iron cam they also changed the distributor drive gear. Look for a grove on your distributor drive gears and inspect for wear either way.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
Assuming that the cam is original to the motor, or was a correct replacement for that era 235, the distributor you want to use is the 1112403 distributor. Point gap is .016 with new points at anywhere from 28 to 35 dwell degrees. Use the 55-57 vacuum advance and time the motor to tdc to start and then advance it a little to see if it will stand a couple of degrees advance with today's fuel.
If you want the motor to run its best, send the distributor out for a freshening up. You would be surprised what a distributor operating as it should can make on starting and driveability.
The distributor gear controversy can be solved pretty easily by simply installing a bronze gear. The gear that fits a 250 or 292 six also works on stovebolt engines. it's available from places like JEGS or Summit. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I've posted it a couple of times before. The ad copy says "not for street use", but I think that's a CYA statement on the part of the manufacturer of the gear. It's a "non-OEM" racing part intended for use with roller cams, and sometimes the government gets a little testy about using race stuff on the street. On occasionally-driven Cowboy Cadillacs, it would probably outlive most of us old geezers who drive restored stovebolts! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
