Hi. I am going through the wiring on my 3100. It looks like the previous owner installed a new wiring harness when he switched to 12V. The harness is setup for the headlights, tailights, dash gauges, and ignition switch.
The heater is wired to the ignition switch. It doesn't look like there is a fuse block in the harness for any accessories.
Can anyone recommend a fuse block that I can add off the ignition switch to power accessories I want to work with the ignition on? For example: heater, electric wipers, dome light, maybe radio, turnsignals
This is what happens when you live with a house-full of women, the wife and daughters name all the cars: 1960 Impala - "Frankie" (Frank Sinatra) 1961 Apache - " 'Mater Jr." (wrecker) 1965 Corvair Monza Convertible 1967 C20 "Ol' Blue" (hidden in a log cabin for 30 years) 1972 SuperBeetle Convertible - "Juliet" 1976 SuperBeetle Convertible - "Olaf" 1988 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce - "Romeo"
I used this 14 circuit panel from Painless. It is a good basic fuse panel. Unfortunately the screw connections are on the side and that makes it real difficult to access after the panel is installed. I would probably pick a different one when I build another vehicle.
The Painless 3001 has a single hot feed. It also has a standoff bracket, so wires can be run underneath it. The side screw connections aren't ideal though. Here's a link to the manufacturer's info on it. link There's a link on the page to an instruction manual and wiring diagram.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I like the look of that one. Does it have one hot feed or does it use 8 separate ones? Where did you get the hot feed when you wired it?
No single hot feed. I didn't want a single hot feed. Instruments, back up lights and wipers are wired to ignition. Heater fan and cigar lighter are wired to acc. Dome light and signals wired to bat.
The painless fuse block that Kevin referred to is similar to one I used on another project. The one I got was from a wrecked Chevette. Usually only need one flasher in an old truck as you are probably using a signal stat switch.
I have the heater and wipers hooked up to the ignition switch for now. I wouldn't think the ignition switch is rated for both of them so I would like to create an accessory fuse block for both of them (and maybe a radio if I ever hook it up). I wired up my dome light last night. I found that the headlight switch has a connector for the dome light. I'll probably put an inline fuse in that line or move it to an accessory fuse block when I set it up.
For you guys that installed a accessory fuse block, did you run a new hot feed off the battery, or after ignition switch, or off headlight switch?
I ran the output from the Alternator to the + on the fuse panel on it's way to the ammeter. Also ran a ground from the battery to the - on the fuse panel.
I believe your headlight switch has a fuse already, and a thermal overload. When you do new automotive wiring, it best that everything is fused or a fusible link used. A fusible linked hot wire to the headlight switch. A fusible linked hot wire to the ignition switch. A fusible linked wire to that part of the fuse block which is always on. A wire from ignition "on" to that part of the fuse panel that you want switched.
Accessory position is the same as Ignition "on". Ignition "on" can be used with motor running or not. I realize in your case, you have to add a fuse panel. You are doing the right thing. For updating/rewiring a truck in the future, always buy a prewired fuse panel style harness kit. The fuse panel should always be mounted inside cab. This advice is obviously not for the purist and their cloth wire kits.
You are correct, you do not want a fuse panel with separate ins and outs. You want one with two power inputs. Hot bank and switched bank. I'm talking updating older trucks, not hot rods with electronic, bluetooth, computers, etc.
I don't use ammeters, so all my fusible links come directly off the battery or possibly bounce off the horn relay. A nice bright idiot bulb is easily seen when starting to verify bulb and is easily noticed if a problem arises. Which means I like "3 wire" alternators, 12V and ballast resistors.. A voltmeter will give you gauge feedback if you want that also. It's a simple install in series instead of every hot wire routed to an ammeter, which is used as a terminal block for hot. No good, no how, no reason.
On one truck I did, I bought a donor ATO fuse panel from a newer Chevy truck with all the wires cut. $15. I wanted to do a harness from scratch. I de-terminated all the wires from the panel. Bought wire of various colors. Bought crimp/solder terminals of various types. Bought Packard 56 connectors of various pin-outs, bulb sockets, sleeving and other stuff. I guess it was rewarding or a learning experience. But didn't save enough money to ever do it again.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
I rebuilt a wiring harness on a muscle car a few years back, it sounds like your harness from scratch. I had to get those special connectors inside the block, what a pain in the butt.
I don't like ammeters either, but I'm going to stick with the stock gauges for now.
So you would recommend running two fusible links off the battery? One for the heater and one for the wipers?
