The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What makes a block into a boat anchor?

Hello,

I want to preserve the original 216 in my 1-ton, with stamped number matching the VIN plate. I know they are under-powered but I am fine with that. A few photos are at the link below. I am going to pull it out and disassemble it soon.

As it is original, I am very motivated to spend the money to rebuild it. What sorts of issues are a death sentence for a Stovebolt? As you can see mine has seen some moisture but has always been protected by the hood. It is stuck and I won't know why until I take it apart.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zmouIPaIbsZ3CiPe47lpg4MfcKBZENcG?usp=sharing

James

Unless you've got a bunch of freeze cracks to deal with, just about anything else can be rebuilt of upgraded. One thing I like to do with a 216 is get rid of the heavy cast iron pistons that pound the Babbit rod bearings to death. A 60 thousandths overbore (which you might need to do anyway to clean up rusty cylinder walls) and a set of standard bore 235 aluminum pistons brings the displacement up to 224 cubic inches, raises the compression slightly, and makes the engine accelerate better. Connecting rod oil clearance adjustments don't have to be done as frequently with lightweight pistons, also. To salvage a badly worn numbers-correct block, it's also possible to sleeve all the cylinders back to standard bore size. Expensive, but doable.
Jerry

I second Jerry on the cracks. I’d also check under the intake/exhaust along the side of the block. Frequently (at least in my experiences), these old girls’ blocks are cracked badly from lack of maintenance or running water.

Thanks Gents.

Once I get the block cleaned up, is there a good way to inspect for cracks myself? Or is that something an engine shop is best suited to handle? Assume I don't have any specialized tools. Thanks.

James

Machine shop should be capable of doing that. They can magna flux just about everything to check for cracks. Some cracks are easy to spot,others....well they need a little help to be visible..

I hate to unearth this thread, but I think I may have another reason to add to the list... The nightmare all started when I pulled the drain plug and got nothing but pure water.

I then pulled the head off my 216. As it was left with the carb off for years, I believe water got into the cylinders through the intake. I think it came in through the split in between the 2 pieces of the hood.

Here is a link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xG1BIuCZ7Xbk0CO659pNOQ36mr0dI3Ex?usp=sharing

Has anyone successfully dealt with this much rust in the cylinders? #4 is terrible, obviously had the intake valve open when parked. I currently have diesel soaking in the cylinders. My next step is to clean out the rust and unstick the pistons to inspect the extend of the rust damage. Whether or not I go further, I want to know what it looks like.

Again, this is the matching block so I am willing to spend my pennies on boring (maybe decking the block and perhaps sleeving #4?) to get it right again. But is she too far gone? Thanks.

James

It's probably salvageable, but stand by to give your checkbook some CPR. I see at least two cylinders that will probably need sleeves. Also, have a good machine shop do a thorough cleanup and Magnaflux job on the cylinder head. I'll suggest again, since the cylinders will need a big rebore, this would be a good time to scrap the cast iron 216 pistons, bore the cylinders 60 over, and use standard bore 235 aluminum pistons. That can be done even if you still need a sleeve or two. Use a 3/32" wall sleeve instead of a 1/8" to minimize the amount you have to bore out of the original block.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry. Good to hear there may be a chance at life for this thing. Now I have to decide if it is worth it to me!

James

For a numbers matching I would say it's worth it, within reason, as long as there's room in the bank account.