The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop rear window rubber

Well, I finally got my rear window installed. I haven't put the lock strip in yet, but at least the glass is in place.

The oly thing I can see as a problem at the moment is the fact that the rubber doesn't bend well around the corners. I don't know what the problem is. Is the glass not seated properly? Is the rubber somehow distorted? Will the rubber settle in after I get the lock strip in?

Anyone else have this problem? And if so how did you deal with it?

I'm attaching a couple of photos to show what I mean.

Tim

Time and summer heat should make that lay down. You could also try stretching it tighter in those corners with your fingers (looks like you have sealer in the channel which may not allow it to move however).

I like the color of your truck.

There is a bead of butyl rubber holding the channel to the metal pinch weld, no sealant in the glass channel (yet). I'm thinking of hitting it with my heat gun, then taping it down while it's soft and letting it set up that way.

I like the color, too! It's called Burgundy Maroon, and was only offered in 1953,

Tim

Tim,once the lockstrip goes in it will help,your suggestion of the heat gun will help too but just go easy with the heat,yours don't look too bad
Claytonrite rubber,the type used in the rear windows is available in many different sizes,some of the wider profiles do tend to pucker in the corners and the small radius plays a part too.

I don't use any sealant whatsoever on back glass. The locking strip will create a water tight seal.

If it doesn't lay down on its own, I have carefully notched it with a sharp razer blade and sealed the cut with black RTV. Not really proud of this fix, but it works. In my experience, its tough to get things perfect on older vehicles due to differences in the thickness of modern glass and the rubber is always quite the same as the original. John

I just did this last week. Looked the same as yours untill I installed locking bead, then all good. Side note, I used nylon pry bars from harbor frieght to install bead.

Update on the rear window.

I spent a couple of days trying to get the lock strip in, but could only get it started and about one foot before the tool slipped out of the channel. And I couldn't get it back in with the lock strip in place, so I would have to start over.

I finally went to my local O'Reilly's and bought a different tool. It's a Lisle 47000 tool, with four different sized tips that are interchangeable, and MUCH thinner than the tool I bought from Jim Carter. Also has a much better handle, sort of like a large screwdriver, which made it easier to hold and apply pressure. Tried it out this morning and the lock strip slid right in. Much easier to work with the thinner tool, goes into the channel easily, slides with next to no friction. And it was only $17.

Amazing what having the right tool can do.

Tim

In case you need one, Home Depot & Walmart sell the Lisle 47000 tool.

www.homedepot.com $13.32. Free ship to store

www.walmart.com $13.32 Free ship to store

It is a great tool to have in your tool box.
Harold

How does it (on the left) compare in functioning to the 48600 (on the right)?

That offset arm might be handy/helpful?

I don't know how much difference it would make, never having used the offset one. But there was no problem with the straight one. Although I used it with the blade in line with the handle, not at right angles as in the photos.

Tim

That makes sense.

Thanks, bluesman

I just got back from installing the lock strip. With the new tool it took me ten minutes. Although I did have to spend a few minutes neatening up the corners, and getting the last inch in where the ends but together. I used GOOP for lubrication, and it all went together nicely. And now my hands are nice a smooth!

Tim