The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Cobbled up taillights '59

Take a look at what I inherited. I had ask about and questioned these unusual lights a while back...but never literally pried into the root problem until today. These certainly are not correct. Has anyone crossed paths with these aftermarket (hokie looking) assemblies before?
What will it take to correct this. Buy another factory correct (OEM) taillight assembly from one of our many suppliers out there?
I'm embarrassed to reveal that the lens was literally held in place by double sided foam tape. Is that not a CRIME!

Notice the secondary (smaller) hole in behind the lens....what was that intended for?

classic. my father did pretty much the same thing... it worked until I fixed it.

Those lights,while not intended to bo used in that manner, are far from hookey and are not really aftermarket lights. They are generally used on commercial trailers and trucks. Flat deck trucks and other trailers etc. Yes they are hookey looking on your 59..they just dont belong there. Other then that they are a legit light. I work with them all the time.
As for the hole in the base, that is where the light holer socket would fit into, then your 1157 bulb, then the lense. The lense was attached with three screws or maybe a retainer ring.

The old short-cut trick. So I have some rewiring ahead of me to right this wrong. Trust one of the suppliers can fix me up with the correct parts. I suppose the outer beauty ring is wrong as well. Correct?

Double stick tape, now thats some hillbilly engr'ing, LOL.... Best check for some chicken wire holding up the exhaust too. LOL...
(Ty raps only work for so long, don't ask....)
Now you get to face one of those all important decisions, go with a stock style light assembly with an 1157 bulb, go with an LED bulb or get the lens assembly with the LED's built in, decisions, decisions.....

That looks like an OEM chrome bezel with the bulb socket removed. Check with KC Mongo to see if he can supply you with a pair of original equipment tail lights- - - -chances are he's got some in good condition stashed away somewhere.
Jerry

Jerry, excuse me but I'm not familiar with KC Mongo. Who is this individual and how might I make contact?....Thanks

George

George, KC Mongo is a member. He operates out of the KC area. Go to the users list and type in KCMongo and send him a PM. All around good guy.

Thanks Martin for quick feedback! I'll follow up.

Looking closer it appears I'm missing the OEM housing (bucket) as well.

Question, if I opt to go with the LED style taillight lens (plug and play) would that not eliminate the need for the OEM housing. In other words the housing is designed to accept (3) screw style lens with a 1157 bulb socket like OEM. The LED upgrade is a (2) screw design lens and would eliminate this correct or am I missing something?

OK....now what...the LED lens has a pigtail and on that pigtail is the same base connection as an 1157 bulb. Huh? Sooooooooooo……...do I still need the entire housing to make it all work and does that housing have the bulb socket already built in? And on top of that the (2) hole lens cover won't work on a (3) hole housing.

I may just settle for all OEM parts and be done with it.

Digging deeper. Take a look at the factory pies cuts...laid back with what I would presume from a hammer/punch or both. Doesn't look right to me. Were they all at right angles from the factory? Anyway another question has arisen. Is the housing only anchored at the back...if so I'm no contortionist so how does one get to handle and nuts/bolts to the back (interior) of the body bed panels to secure the housing...etc?

Appreciate every ones input.

George

Who on this site has closely resembled a problem such as this?

Fellows I would greatly appreciate some help on this one. Thanks

There are brand new 58/59 stepside tail light housings on Ebay for $49.99 each. That's a little pricey, but it's a simple, correct fix. Install them with pop rivets through the two holes that are already there.
Jerry

Roger that, Jerry. I would like your input regarding the openings. Pie-cuts positioned every which way. What's your recommendations, again this is the first time I have ever seen a '59 tail light opening. Just want to make it right going back together.
Thanks,
George

If the pie cuts bother you, bend them back square and weld the cuts back together. It's just old sheet metal, not brain surgery. I'd ignore the cuts if it was my truck and do whatever body work was necessary to make the new parts fit right. It's surprising what you can do to straighten a flange like that with a pair of channel lock pliers. It looks like the repop housing has a new bulb socket built in- - - - -not sure about the insulator, spring, and pigtail leads, but all those things are available brand new, either from a good parts store like NAPA, or one of the resto-ripoff places.
Jerry

Why in the H#!! would anyone have taken the time to make pie-cuts in an otherwise adequate circular opening...and for what result....FOOLISH!

Yeah, I'm not opposed to firing up the MIG. I'll take a step back, but I do like your reasoning.

OK sir, lastly I need some more wisdom on housing mounting. From the description...it sure appears you would bolt this up using the thru holes in the back. The pie-cuts serve no function other than lining up and centering the housing. Do you agree with that? So, to reiterate how do one manipulate small hardware in that particular local?

George

It looks like the "pie cuts" were done to accommodate the shape of the se3lf-contained tail/stop lights that were installed. I'll wager the shape of the back of the light matches those cuts and bends pretty closely.

MIG?????? That's sort of like using a sledgehammer to swat a fly. That's a perfect place for some old fashioned oxy-acetyline welding or brazing.
Jerry

Check out Classicparts.com

(1958-59) Taillamp Housing - Fleetside
Product : 49-419
Price : $38.95

You will still need the bezels, gaskets and lens but cheaper than ebay. I wouldn’t do any welding until I saw what its supposed to look like. Maybe a fellow bolter could post a photo!

Jerry, again you nailed it. MIG is way to aggressive in the location. I'll have to locate a small oxy-acetylene rig. Time to have one around for sure. Brazing would fill nicely.

I 'll figure out how to mount the housing (bucket) at a later date.

Thanks,

George

Appreciate the lead Phak1

If it's 16 gauge or thinner, OAW is my first choice. Of course, 60-something years of doing it that way might have a little to do with it, also!
Jerry

The steel at the location is relatively stout. Its certainly heavier that 16 ga. I plan on using the torch to gently heat each cut enough to get it going back @ 90 degs. Don't want to bend COLD.

Gas welding is becoming a lost art along with brazing. I learned the process in tech school for autobody in High School back in the 60’s. They gave us old rims to make a water hose hanger. We cut them in half with a torch, burned out the rivets for the center hub then tried to gas weld up the rivet holes. At one point my rivet sized hole was about the size of a quarter. I did eventually get the hole closed and finished my project.

After I get the tabs back in position closing up the (wedge) may be a little tricky. Controlling my puddle while brazing on the vertical may be a real challenge.

I agree completely. Also, Even gas welding or brazing is likely to warp the shape of the opening.FWIW, MIG works well for welding sheet metal. But filling holes (or pie cuts) is probably better using O/A if it comes down to them even needing to be welded. If they haven't cracked at the bottom of the pie cut, they probably won't in your lifetime.

I appreciate you jumping in here klhansen. You gave me pause to NOT just jump in with both feet and weld those pie cuts closed. That metal still has plenty of structural rigidity. I will apply heat to get them back on the 90 as best I can. Nothing appears cracked.

darn the luck!

George

I don't even think you need to heat them to bend them back to where you think they need to be. As long as you don't bend them multiple times, they'll bend just fine cold. You'd be surprised how much forming you can do to sheet metal when it's cold. Even heating the tabs could induce some warp that you may not want.

Alright I'll heed your advice. It isn't like the tabs have been work hardened by bending back and forth...so yes I agree they shouldn't be brittle at this stage. I would have had to spend a chunk of change to purchase a portable oxy set. Have a MIG never invested in the other. Borrowed one years ago on another project.

So if I may...whats your take on the correct method of attaching the repo housing? I don't seem to find those finer details. The assembly manual doesn't show any '59 drawing to study, etc. The housing is minus any pigtail to make the electrical upgrade with the 1157 bulb. A web search found a new OEM spec harness $$$$$. A FLAPS was brought to mind earlier post.

I think if you get the housing and straighten out the sheet metal, it may become evident how its attached. The housing has three holes on the outer lip that look like they may line up with the lens and the bezel. I suspect they might all be attached together with the lens screws along with clips that would attach to the bent tabs.

Just a thought.

This is from LMCtruck.

Yep- - - -the diagram shows spring clip nuts that accept sheet metal screws and slip over the body metal back there where the pigtail lead comes through the bed. Any auto body shop will have plenty of them in stock, or a professional-quality parts store like NAPA would be another source. I used to buy them in boxes of 100 when I ran a body shop.
Jerry

Gentlemen, I really appreciate this BIG help! The diagram tells the whole story...I have used spring clips in many different applications but for the life of me I just couldn't get past the need for them in this situation. That's what tunnel vision does for you and I have a bad case of it and getting worse...LOL:>)

Just received my OEM taillight parts from the Truck Shop in Orange, CA. Oddly enough the recommended wiring harness doesn't match up for a lack of a better term with the lamp socket. The problem is the tiny molded cogs on either side of the pin contact are not a true 180 degrees apart making it impossible to insert then twist and turn in its final resting place.
The vendor is closed on Mondays. So in the meantime I wanted to share this and find out if anybody else has crossed this minute problem before.
Poor QC on suppliers end...who knows?

Assuming the socket is installed in the housing with correct end at rear: I would suggest that you try again. I believe the offset, if there is an offset, is to "key" the spring loaded contacts to be correct to receive the keyed bulb. So as to engage the bulb contacts and maintain correct filament wiring.
It is possible that they sold/sent the wrong parts. There should be only one way to put in the contact insert and only one way to put in the bulb.
Do both sockets/inserts have the same issue? Anyway, it's almost tomorrow.
In the mean time you can look up the correct part number on their website and see if the package has that number.

All very good points to consider. FYI, the catalog P/N for the harness covers 54 thru 59 model years. You have prompted me to take an even closer look at the pin configuration comparing the 1157 lamp to that of the mating plug. Findings, the bulb pins by design are staggered one higher at the base than the other and exactly 180 degree separation. Correct. The plug in question, the pins are on the same plane as viewed from the side as well offset. Incorrect.

The "plug" in question, the pins are on the same plane as viewed from the side as well offset. Incorrect.

IF "plug" = the socket contact insert.
Those are supposed to be on the same plane, so they are correct, because aren't the rear set of bayonet socket slots are on the same plane?

The offset is the only issue evidently. Try to install the insert and twist, then try it at 180.

Of course I'm saying all this with only one picture and one angle.

If parts are per catalog, it has to go together. IF you have the correct housing and socket: The insert is molded by the thousands. Would be rare to be wrong and be un noticed by other buyers. BUT.............there is a chance so don't ruin my life if I'm wrong.

Tomorrow is now closer yet.

OK...looking straight on at the socket contact insert...notice the molded tiny molded dimples (lugs). They are suppose to be exactly 180 from each other...otherwise it will not fit into the housing. Its like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole.

Tomorrow PST yuk prolongs my wait time.

Yes, I did see that and I do understand that. But if it fits with a little effort, it doesn't matter. There has to be some sort of keying for that end also. So that the correct wire color is on the correct bulb filament.