The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1936 Engine Rebuild

Anyone know of someone that would rebuild a 207 engine for a 1936 Master? I live just outside of Seattle. Thanks - Jim

Welcome to the Stovebolt

Find your local antique farm tractor club and see who they use in your area. There is usually some small shop that specializes in old low HP, low compression engines.

Ask the same question on the VCCA Chat Forum...

Mike B

Can you send me a private message?

He cannot until off post moderation. Sorry

I have used Motorworks Inc. in Spokane, they did a really nice job rebuilding the head for my '37 216. If you can't find anything closer to Seattle, that would be an option.

Buds Machine shop in Lakewood. Hes been in business since the 50's. Nearly 80 years old. Knows what hes doing with old motors.

Thanks. I called Buds and they're booked for the next couple of months. Does anyone know user Pre '68 Dave? He's posted some good information and appears to be located in WA. Was wondering if he might know someone? Unfortunately, I can't send him a message until I'm off of moderation.

I know Pre '68 Dave, and at this time I do not have a recommendation.

Did you contact any of the guys at VCCA?

How bad is your engine...does it run or is it stuck and rusty?

Mike B

Thanks Dave - appreciate the reply. Mike - yes, I also posted on VCCA - unfortunately no leads yet. The engine ran, but apparently a lubrication issue caused the cam gear teeth to shear off. It's currently at a shop in Monroe, WA. They're willing to replace the parts, but have said the issue is likely to happen again because of poor oil flow. I'm trying to decide if I should have the 207 rebuilt or swap in a pressurized 235. Thanks again for the help.

I have never heard of cam gear teeth shearing off. There is an oiler on the front plate of the engine that could possibly get clogged. I would also guess that the cam could be seized or for other some reason stopped. To shear the teeth, the crankshaft gear would have to be turning. I would recommend a good internal cleaning of the engine. While it is apart, drop the pan and clean out the sludge in the bottom. When and if the shop gets it running use one of the several techniques suggested here to run a cleaner through the engine while running. I would check to see if you have oil to the rockers, if not spray some cleaner into the supply tube, let it sit for a while and use a little air to blast out any blockage.

The decision to replace or not should be made after a compression check after the internal cleaning. You may also want to run some top cleaner through the Carb to do some clean up in the head. My guess is that you have to make a decision to rebuild or replace, just replacing parts without figuring out the cause is not going to work out for you in the long run. It also depends on your goals for the truck. If you decide to replace, make sure your new engine will fit into the engine compartment and link to your drive shaft, and other components.

Who in Monroe has the engine?
I live about seven miles from there. I was unaware that anyone close by was working on these old engines.

Your fiber timing gear was wiped out due to a plugged up oil nozzle. If engine sludge makes it into the 1/16" nozzle orifice it will stop the oil flow that lubricates the timing gears and the steel crank gear will eat the fiber cam gear.

Replacement fiber cam gears are available. At one time you could get over-sized fiber cam gears to compensate for worm steel crank gears.

Mike B

Thanks for all the information. Dave... the car is currently at Rods, Rides & Customs in Monroe (used to be Moslander's). Do you have any information on what's needed to convert to a 235?

This is the list from one of my 235 conversions in a 1936.
Check your PM for more info.

• 1946-47, 4 speed, front bearing retainer

• 1938-47 truck bellhousing

• 1938-39 pass clutch fork

• 1942-53 Flywheel

• 1938-54, Clutch disc & pressure plate 9”

• 1937-48 Valve cover

• 1941-52 Water pump, with my adapter.

• 1949-54 Powerglide, 4 field starter

• 1937-51 Fuel pump

• 216 distributor with 235 gear

• 235 carb

Picture of front mount modification, as a 235 is shorter than the 36 engine.

Booked? I'm real curious what kind of work they are booked for, there can't be that many car engines to work on these days. I see they do industrial work as well. So how is the project going?

I know a good place in Portland OR. They did my 46 216 and knew how to set the splash oilers and machined for insert rod bearings. They ran oil pressure tests before I took the engine.

tsk tsk "splash oilers"?

"full pressure" main bearing lubrication.

piston connecting-rod bearing lubrication:
- rod dippers at low speeds, and,
- at higher speeds: oil-pump-provided directed oil streams from aimed nozzles

1942-1947 engine oiling system

I am currently trying to gather all the parts that I need to put in a 235 in my 36 chevy maters, pre '68 Dave can you send me picture or any info that will help doing this job, I will greatly appreciate it. thank you