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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
Hello fellow 1-tonners
I've been scouring the forums tonight and have been reading your posts. I have a 49 GMC FC253 and I recently got new 19.5" Accuride rims from wheels now --> http://www.wheelsnowinc.com/catalog/viewItem.php?id=89 (same part # mentioned in Tech Tips)
In the rear they hit the drum before they'll seat properly. It looks like some of you have the same type of 4 hole wheel - how does yours fit over the drum? Did you swap the drums with something non-stock? Mine appear to the be the 14" drums, and I still have the stock HO-72 rear end. Thank you in advance - any help you can offer is appreciated!
Thanks,
Greg


1949 GMC FC253 - 1 Ton Dually
1966 Buick Wildcat Convertible
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Hard to see in the catalog picture, but looks like the “dish” of the wheel is more conical than convex.
The conical type don’t fit over the original brakes in the rear, but the wheels with a more curved center dish do just fit by about 1/4” of clearance at the drum corner.

Hard to do sometimes but always advisable to test fit a wheel before committing.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Possible rear brake swap as explained in this thread.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...ith-huck-brakes-on-1-ton.html#Post870032


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Also, if you don’t already have 4.10 gears in your original axle housing you should consider a 14 bolt axle swap for faster gears and brakes that fit in your new wheels.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread.../14-bolt-axle-swap-info.html#Post1249600


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Originally Posted by xgregx
...I recently got new 19.5" Accuride rims from wheels now (same part # mentioned in Tech Tips)
In the rear they hit the drum before they'll seat properly.

Sorry you have this fitment problem. I went back and looked at the tech tip hoping that we haven't lead you astray.

Tech tip https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/
Quote
I believe Accuride part number 29015 is what you are looking for, but do confirm that they will work before buying.

You may or may not have found this later info on 19.5" wheels for our 1 ton trucks, but it speaks to your situation.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...ve-improve-drive-repeat.html#Post1142967
(sorry the picture links there don't work, try this about half way down) https://goo.gl/photos/H26qPfBHb7eS15698



•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
X
'Bolter
'Bolter
X Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
Hi Grigg,
Thanks so much for all the info. Apparently I have the 'big' rear brakes at 14". When I test fitted the rims I only tested the outer rim, not both together. Going up to a bigger size rim I assumed (foolishly and now I know) that the wheels would clear the drums no problem.
I've been looking at the tech tips and forums and it looks like I have a few options.
Started looking a disk brake conversions. There are some 4x4 offroad shops that make caliper brackets for DRW 14bolts that possibly fit the HO72. You can get the whole package for about $400, or up to 600 if you want calipers with parking brakes.
I also saw in the tech tips (https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/axles/1%20Ton%20Upgrade/) that quote: "All HO52/72 rears can use any year of brakes. So a dual rear wheel rear brake system from 72 bolts in place of a 47 DRW system. Plus, almost all 14 bolt from 73-2006 brake system will work also. Wow, so you can ditch those Huck brakes at the same time ... :)"
I might go that route and source modern rear drums and parts.
I'd prefer to keep my axle. It's in very good shape and I just replaced the seals and painted it. I did think about doing the 14 bolt swap and will keep that plan in my back pocket as well.
I'm going to obsessively muse these options for a while. I'm thinking I can test fit a 14 bolt drum to my new rims and go from there.
Thanks again - your posts are always very informative. I'll update my thread when I figure out what works.
Greg


1949 GMC FC253 - 1 Ton Dually
1966 Buick Wildcat Convertible
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
I be cautious with the bolt on disc brakes commonly used by the 4x4 crowd. I’m not convinced those parts are that great for a 1 ton truck used as a truck, they’re likely popular because it’s easy and not because they’re the best option. See more brake choices and ideas in the 14 bolt swap sticky thread.

Before swapping later model drum brakes measure and see if they will swap, several different spacings between hub and backing plate flange exist, and drum to hub details.

Before putting disc brakes on the rear you should put them on the front anyhow.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
X
'Bolter
'Bolter
X Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
Thanks for the info Grigg. I'm starting to test fit various drums now. I'll try that Bendix drum you mentioned in the 14 bolt swap thread.
What do you use for front disks? I only know of Hollister Road, and apparently the guy that ran it passed away a little while back and the site is offline.
Thanks again,
Greg


1949 GMC FC253 - 1 Ton Dually
1966 Buick Wildcat Convertible
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Someone else might have a front disc kit recently, I don’t have a link.
I have been working on my own collection of parts for front disc, but not a good/easy conversion like I hoped it would be.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
X
'Bolter
'Bolter
X Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
After playing around with different brakes (newer 1 ton brake backing plates fit on the axle, but the newer dually drum was too wide and I would have had to move the brake backing flange on the axle in, which seemed like a pretty big effort and potentially risky)
So I ended up getting wheel spacers. I only needed a little more than an inch to clear the drum, and it was by far the most simple solution. I found very good quality steel spacers on https://www.wheeladapter.com/ The spacers are very beefy and probably about as heavy as the hub itself!
They use 9/16th studs and expect to be attached to the hub with 9/16th studs and lug nuts, so I went ahead and upgraded my hubs to 9/16 studs as well so the lug nuts that hold on the spacers would seat properly.
I drilled out my hub, drum, and clamp plate holes in my drill press with a 39/64ths drill bit (which is about .600") and used PTC 97145 9/16 wheel studs from Rock Auto, which have a .627" knurl diameter. The original stud knurls where about .025" larger than the hole.
I used a lug stud installer tool to install the new studs and they went in perfectly. I know some people say those things are a waste of money and a stack of washers will do the job, but I didn't want to mess around since I had created new holes to go up a size. I found it very helpful.
Anyway - I've been happily cruising around on my nice newly balanced wheels and tires. I had it blasting down the highway at 55-60mph with about 2500lbs of hay bales last weekend.

Thanks for all the advice an input. I hope this post helps someone else who runs into a similar dilemma!
Greg


1949 GMC FC253 - 1 Ton Dually
1966 Buick Wildcat Convertible
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
I'm glad you've found a solution that suits you.
But wouldn't two different 19.5" wheels that just fit (as mine do) be cheaper than $370 for a set of spacers?


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Spacing wheels out on a front axle puts more load on everything including tie rods, removes geometry farther from center point steering, which can lead to steering issues. May not be such a big deal on some of our older, lightly loaded trucks, but must be kept in mind. Might be a last resort resolution.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.

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