The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 261 Lifters

I was wondering if I should go with stock solid lifters or use hydraulic lifters for my 1962 261 rebuild? I have had several solid lifter 235s and they were much noisier than the hydraulic lifter motors. I assume the block/ head has provisions for use with both lifters?

This is going into the '53 handyman wagon. It's a family cruiser that hauls a small camper.

Thanks.

261s never came with hydraulic cams.

Some 235s had hydraulic cams (only in car engines, and, depending on year or transmission).
Yes, they were quieter, but there was probably a little loss in power.

Mechanical lifters that are excessively noisy are a usually the result of incorrect adjustment or worn parts.

The only 261's that I'm aware of that are capable of running hydraulic lifters were Pontiac engines sold in Canada. It might be possible for a very well-equipped machine shop to gun-drill a 261 truck block for a hydraulic lifter oil gallery, but given the current status of "machinists" these days, finding a shop willing to attempt that procedure is a little less likely than encountering a chicken with lips!
Jerry

Besides, there really isn't nothing wrong with the sound of mechanical lifters, it is just sweet music to most.

X2 on the Canadian Pontiac blocks. Those blocks came with hydraulic lifters so you can use either sold or hydraulic lifter. Chevy 261 truck block, I have never seen one drilled for hydraulic lifters. That is not to say that none ever were, just that I have never seen one.

That being said, as you may know, the new manufactured hydraulic lifters have been problematic for quite a few years now. A nasty habit of collapsing within a limited number of miles. Really the only way to get the best shot out of using hydraulic lifters, at least in my opinion, is to scrounge for a GM NOS set, or a RNOS set that are at least 20-25 years or older post manufacture, preferably USA made.

On the mechanical lifter side, the current manufacture solid lifter does not struggle with quality issues so you can use new. Solids are pretty reliable, will not collapse, and do not suffer ticking from air in the oil, lifter or under the push rod seat. Yes, sounds a little bit like a sewing machine, but runs reliably and requires only a bit of maintenance in the form of a valve adjustment every once in a while.

Very good, solid it is. I like the simplicity of solid lifters but wanted to confirm there wasn't some other avenue to take.

One last question. Any recommendations on a cam for this engine? Just mainly hauls the camper and family around. The stock cam is long gone due to a previous rebuild. Thanks.

Elgin E-293S

http://catalog.elginind.com/elgin/

It's an exact copy of the original 261 solid lifter cam, the one that was also used in 6-cylinder Corvette 235's. Elgin used an OEM Corvette cam as a pattern, and the only difference I've been able to find is a slight change in the clearance specification. Elgin lists it as having a "290 degree" duration, but they're also including the clearance ramps in that figure. The actual "valve open" duration is around 260-something which gives the engine a good idle and slightly better torque and horsepower than a stock 235 cam. Elgin does not sell direct, but they will provide you with a list of their vendors. I buy mine from the "Internal Engine Parts Warehouse" system, specifically, Nashville Engine Parts in Nashville Tennessee. IEP has facilities throughout the southeastern USA that deal with professional shops and parts stores, not hobbyiststs and DIY'ers.
Jerry

Good parts store with a machine shop (i.e. NAPA) can get that cam.

Or if you are a recycler like me and you have a 235 cam laying around, you can send it to one of the cam grinders and have it reground to either 261 specs or something slightly more aggressive. I like Schneider Cams in San Diego Ca. They have done the last three cams for me and all were great cams.

What would it cost to regrind a "normal" 235 cam to 261 specs?

That Elgin cam is available for a little over $100 (free shipping) on eBay (and the same price from Elgin, plus shipping).

Regrinding a cam reduces the diameter or the base circle and can create problems with pushrod length and the position of rocker arm adjusters, locknuts, etc. If a new cam is available, getting a used one reground doesn't make good nonsense. Back when almost all the flathead Ford V8 race cams were made on stock cores with some pretty radical regrinding involved, Johnson adjustable tappets were available in "overlength" dimensions to compensate for reduced base circle diameters.
Jerry

That’s not accurate at all with respect to an in-line early chevy 6. Yes, a regrind does reduce the heal of the cam a bit in order to get the new shape ground in, but no, it does not screw up the geometry on an early in-line 6, or even close to the extent you have described. Plenty of adjustment to compensate and the regrinds work just fine. How do I know this? Because I have used at least a dozen of them over the years in my 235 and 261 builds, including a couple that Chet Herbert reground for me. You might remember his ads in hot rod magazine that he would regrind any cam with any grind for 39.50. I still have the last cam he ground for me in 1985, the receipt for that cam, and it’s still in the motor I put it in. Stock rockers, stock pushrods, stock solid lifters. Never a moments trouble, and truth be told, it was a very good cam, sounded great and ran great and I was not all that gentle with that motor. So no, I don’t agree with that pronouncement at all. A regrind is an alternative.

"Different strokes- - - -etc." Do you also run recapped tires?

What does a regrind typically cost?

I have a Delta Cams regrind in my 235, they know the 261 grinds, took my hydraulic lifter core and cut it to solid lifter 261 specs.
Valve train seems very happy now, wasn't so happy with those cheesy hydraulic lifters from abroad before though.