The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1936 1.5 Ton - Questions

Recently I've been presented with an offer to buy a 1936 Chevrolet 1.5 Ton. I've had my eye on this truck for 20+ years. My cousin owns it and, he's finally ready to part ways. I've seriously thinking about it, but I've got a ton more questions than answers.

Here's what I know:
1.5 Ton RWD
206 CID 26 HP 6-cyl
4 speed
First year with hydraulic breaks
Built in Oct of 1935
Body is remarkably straight and clean of rust considering the age.
Interior is in great shape, all glass is good, etc.
Engine does not run. Top 1/2 done 10 years ago. Bottom 1/2 needs to be rebuilt (if we keep the motor)

So, If I do this I'd like it to end up being a daily driver. BUT, I don't know if a daily driver is possible with the existing motor (need to travel highway speeds).

Assuming I really kill the value if I try to modernize the mechanics. Is it possible? What's the cost? (I understand that is a very, very broad question so I understand I'll get some very broad answers).

Just trying to get some advise and a feel for this to make sure it's an expense I want to take on.

Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

These trucks were daily drivers when new, so they are up for the task, just not at the speeds we go now.

Is this truck a High or Low cab (two or three hinges on each door)?

Being so early in the production year are you sure it has hydraulic brakes??? The cars got juice brakes right from the start, but the big trucks did not.

There is no real value to any of the BIG old trucks at this time, so any up grades need to be done because that's the way you want it and not because you think it will add value. You will be upside down money wise almost from day one!

It might be easier to move the sheet metal over to a modern 1-ton chassis, rather than trying to make a 1936 truck run and stop at 65 mph...

Mike B

Welcome to stovebolt. The standard rear for 1938 was 5.33 I would expect your 36 was similarly low so they will run 55 but are screaming. You have a enclosed driveline. to switch rears you would be looking at changing transmission, drive shaft and rear end. If you are looking at a engine swap later trucks used different engine mounts so you may have to look at modifications there as well. Some later bell housings are not compatible with the pedal set up in the 30's trucks, they can be tapped so you can mount the pedals as they are currently mounted in your truck. Water pump location can be a issue when doing a engine change they do make adaptor plates to properly relocate water pump.. Not sure what the 206 shares with the later 216 I have but I would guess it has babbitted instead of insert bearings, slinger and oil pump lube system with a trough with a drain in the rear main bearing cap back to sump instead of a seal. A lot depends on your skills or depth of your pockets. Mike's suggestion of moving sheet metal to a modern chassis may suit your goal of highway friendly better than modifying existing drive train.

My grandfather ran 1935 1 1/2 tons set up as tractor trailers from Nashville to St. Louis and Milwaukee and back, hauling beer in the late 1930's so long distances weren't impossible. There's an Oldsmobile or Pontiac connecting rod bearing that can be used to convert those Babbit rods to insert-type bearings after some pretty careful machining, and I've seen a few reconditioned 206 rods for sale on Ebay. It would be expensive to build that engine, but not impossible. Getting it up to highway speed would be dangerous, if not impossible due to the low-geared rear axle.
Jerry

Depending on your desires and needs, an update to early '50's engine and running gear(235 or 261, 420 trans, period correct axles and brakes) would give you a more useful truck for modern highway speeds, IF that is what you want. Otherwise keeping it original would be cool, but not as useful.

Ed

My '35 1.5T has a 216 swapped in, a much better engine. My best speed is 45 mph, and a good cruise is 40. At that speed (with no load in the bed), the mechanical brakes are adequate, but that's all. I have a lower rear (6.166), so that's all it will do unless I make a lot of change$. I suspect your truck would be the same. Some will say that bigger tires will help, but beware... the larger tires will increase braking effort.

With the stock juice brakes, I would not plan on more than 55 cruise, unloaded. To get there, you will want a later shell bearing 235 engine, larger wheels/tires, and possibly a higher rear. Good luck!

I've been driving my 46 COE TT for 12 years or so and it's 99% original 6 volt and all . (it's in the gallery) I've had a lot of fun taking it to local car shows, and to Home Depot or the super market. 40 -45 MPH is it's top end. Had it on the interstate twice , won't do that again. Some people are amazed to see these trucks in their original condition. My advice is if it's all there keep it original !