The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1968 C60 Axle Nut

I have a 1968 C60 that has blown a rear wheel cylinder. I removed the axle and now am trying to remove the axle nut. It is a 3 1/2 inch hex nut. I bought a 3 1/2 inch axle nut socket at Napa but it won't fit inside the housing to go on the nut. The wall of the socket is 3/16 metal. I am going to need a socket with much thinner sides, maybe about 1/8 inch. Can anyone tell me where I can find a socket that will fit this truck's axle nut? Thank you very much.

you might find one at a 4 wheel drive shop. It would be made out of thin steel plate, and not a regular socket, similar to this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spindle-Lock-Nut-Socket-NAPA-2449-3-1-4-inch-3-4-inch-drive/113512402435?epid=1338260335&hash=item1a6dddce03:g:86kAAOSwlypcK69l

Whenever I need to work on a bearing nut in a truck like that I take a suitably sized screwdriver with sharp edges on it and place the tip between the nut and the hub ID. The long axis of the screwdriver lays parallel to the axle shaft. By twisting the screwdriver so one corner grabs the nut and the diagonal corner digs into the ID of the hub, the nut can be turn off or on by turning the hub/wheel assembly. Simple hand pressure is normally enough to get the screwdriver to catch and do its work . Very much like a sprag clutch element in function.

Long ago I made a wrench out of a suitable diameter exhaust tube by beating it into a hex and drilling a cross hole for a handle to fit through, plenty strong enough to remove and replace the bearing nuts.

I just did the same thing sweepleader said to do with the screwdriver. Mine weren't all that tight to begin with. The only problem with this method is that you cannot torque them back on. Have fun putting the drum back on. I put it on a motorcycle lift and then 2 of us pushed it back on. If you find a socket that fits, please post it. I'd like to get my hands on one.

When I pull wheels and I have concrete to work on, I used a pallet jack under the wheel/tire assembly. The tire sits across the pallet jack and can be pulled straight away from the truck with the tires and all. No need to pull the tire off first then manhandle the hub or drum, its all one piece. Works well with singles or duals. I use a bottle jack and stands under the axle to fine adjust the height and for safety. Chock the wheels still on the ground. I built a 2x4 frame to fit under the tires with large casters on it if I have to work on rough asphalt. I put down a sheet of plywood for the casters to roll on. That works fine too.

Not sure why torquing is necessary, I tighten the inside nut till all play is gone, then back it off a flat or so, till the lock ring fits. Then tighten the outer nut as tight as it will go using the wheel as a lever. They can probably be tightened tighter than they ever should be this way. I do all this by myself, no helper needed.

I was told to torque them to 50 foot lbs and then back off a quarter turn. That was out of a manual an old timer by me said.

I like the idea of the pallet jack. It's me and my 10 year old most of the time. We're learning as we go. This site is an invaluable resource.

That would certainly work, mostly you want to be certain that the races are seated in their bores, 50 foot lbs would do that and is easy to guess with the method I use. Tire radius is about 1.5 feet, 30-35 lbs on the tread would get you there and I guess that is about what I do. Then back it off. I normally back the inner nut off one flat or at least one notch on the lock washer, that would usually be 1/8 to 1/6 of a turn. They need enough clearance so they do not bind up when they get hot from running loaded. That wipes the oil out and then the bearing goes. Tapered roller bearings are designed to run preloaded IF they run in oil. With the lube at wheel bearings being somewhat intermittent, they need a little clearance.

I envy you able to do this with your kid, mine is 36 and working on his own stuff 900 miles away. I miss that time together. It is a pleasure though to see his pictures and hear about what he is doing. I take pride in all of it.

Here's the 3-1/2" axle nut socket...p/n OTC 1910

Mike B

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-1910-Loc...&hvtargid=pla-570750850938&psc=1

Thanks sweepleader. It is fun. My old truck is super basic so I can slowly remember my shop days in high school and teach him the basics at the same time. This is him last year when I let him “struggle” with putting the new thermostat in.

I like both of your suggestions! I will give it a try tomorrow. Thanks a lot.

Looks like I am going to need a new axle nut and locking nut. My NAPA dealer said he couldn't get them. Can anyone tell me where I might purchase new axle nuts for this 1968 C60?? Thanks

Hy miller873, welcome, we will need to know the capacity of the axle to give you the correct part numbers, the GVW of the truck may help us figure out what you have. One of our guys here, I believe 54 3600 is really good at checking for obselete GM parts, hope that helps.

Euclid probably makes the spindle nut you are looking for. Napa has access to them, but most counter people don't know how to identify them. The one you need is probably on this rack. https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/euclid-e7648/display-board-only-spindle-nut-p-439-e7648

If you are near a trailer dealer, they probably have access to Euclid. If you are not near a trailer dealer, measure the spindle size and the threads per inch and call one of these guys locations. https://www.ogburns.com/contact.cfm Most of their locations have pretty competent people.