Well I figured this would be the best place to gather my thoughts on my build.
I'm in my mid-20s and a hobbyist/tinkerer/mechanic. I mainly do motorcycles but I like oddball and long forgotten cars. I've got quite a few rebuilds under my belt and know my way around a wrench, welder, and paint gun.
That being said, I am no expert and am not afraid to call on some help. This is where my story comes in.
I just made a deal on what I was told was a 1957 Chevy 4400. After some research and getting it home, it appears what I have is a 4400 cab and frame, with a later model 1/2 C10 front axle/hubs, that has been bobbed and had a F250/F350 ford 10 1/4" rear axle, with a 230 out of a 1967 C10. This is as it was the day I picked it up.
I was told it was originally a 235 but a newer 230 now sits in its place. The original SM420 is still there. The axle in the rear is 8 LUG and has a 12bolt cover. The front is 6 LUG. It runs good and the trans works well. The driver side rear brake is locked up. Help at identifying what I have going on here would be great, as I will need to start buying parts.
The first thing I did was give it a bath and remove the rotting flat bed. I gave it a basic tune up as well. The rear brakes were in poor shape so they were disassembled, rotors turned, axles seals replaced, etc. I pulled the seat out of the cab along with the vinyl floor and washed out the interior.
Hmmmm- - - - -interesting! One thing in its favor is that a small block V8 will drop in onto those engine mounts and bellhousing without much if any massaging. If you're not into belly button (Everybody's got one!) V8's, a 292 big six will fit with a slight reposition job on the passenger's side front motor mount. The 230 might be a little on the lightweight side, power-wise, for the rest of the truck you've got there! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
All new lines plumbed, mounted correctly, ect. Master cylinder was dry but no rust so filled her up and bled it. I have brakes now!
Took her out for a spin and it was obvious that the carb needed some help. Basic tune up was done as well. Started fixing some wiring. Pulled the valve cover off and everything in the valve train looked really good. Carb was disgusting. Using a few guides I think I managed to get the right kit on order. New choke cable on the way along with some odds and ends as well.
I’m having a bit of trouble with wheels at the moment. The units on the truck are obviously aftermarket, built the only thing I know about them is that they are 16x8 made in USA manufactured in 2009. Obviously the fronts are 6x5.5 and the rears are 8x6.5. I found a set of american racing outlaws that are manufactured in both patterns but I am reading here that the 6x5.5 will have too small of a hub circle since I am fairly confident I have early 1/2 ton c10 front end on the truck (any way I can know for absolute certainty?) My point being a previous owner, as recently as 2009, was able to find a set of matching wheels that fit. What do you guys recommend?
So not a huge update as I have been on the road for nearly 2 weeks. But I got my carb rebuilt last night. Rockauto dropped the ball though and didn't send me the correct intake/exhaust manifold gasket so I don't think I will be taking those off before I get it running again. I am having a hard time picking a direction to go in with my build at the moment. For right now I just think I am going to get it reliable for the summer and then plan a full body off for the winter.
Well I found what was a complete mess in the cooling system. So I flushed it out a few times, eventually just running the truck with a hose hooked up to it and the block drain pulled. Tried to clean it out as best I could. Then i installed a new water pump, thermostat, and shot blasted and painted the pulley,fan, and water neck. I have a rule that even if its temporary, if I pull something off it gets cleaned and painted before getting bolted back on. Makes me feel better anyway. I also installed a mini tac. Have no fear, I drilled no holes and spliced no wires to mount it up. I wanted to get a sense of where the truck was at for tuning purposes.
Raider, I love your rule. It sure is fun bolting on clean stuff! I try my best to follow your lead but can’t seem to do that consistently!
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Turns out new water pump was a poor casting and the dimensions are wrong so the pulley grinds against the pump body when running. So all that has to come apart again. Started messing with the doors to see how bad the damage was. Realized the old weatherstrip is doing nothing but holding water in so that got 86ed. Found some bondo over rust in the rocker steps. Ground everything down and shot over it all with some rust reformer. This isnt permanent. This is just to stop the bleeding until it all comes apart for a proper redo.
Hey, I know its been a minute but the project is still moving! Been crazy busy with work on-top of having 4 more bikes roll in the shop.
I finally got a functioning semi appropriate exhaust on the truck. The Manifold was broken off at the mounting flange. Off came the carb again along with the intake and exhaust manifolds. A new repro manifold was sourced. Both were shot blasted and painted with POR High temp Manifold paint. Ive used this before with decent success. Works a lot better then the spray on stuff by VHT just take good prep and patience in application. New felpro gaskets installed. I got a universal GM flange kit from summit, along with a walker midpipe for a 1962 C10, and a cherry bomb glass pack. Once again this is really only a temporary setup just to make the thing drive-able.
Next up, wiring. A got a full replacement fused harness and I am gutting every thing. Tired of looking at the mess. Not to mention the fact that I have a draw on the system.
After researching wiring kits I have come to the conclusion that they are pretty much all the same. Different names and re sellers but all the same stuff. I bought a 21 circuit unit off the bay and got to work. To supplement it I also bought wiring loom, a bunch of weather proof 12 pin connectors, ect. I also determined that this would be a good time to put in a radio and update the instrument cluster.
Wow it has been a minute since I have been in here. The truck has come a long way but it is a slow uphill battle. Everything electric works like it is supposed to now. Well mostly. My speedo is off and my gas gauge reads full all the time. I figured out it does not match the resistance of my sending unit like was promised. An indicated 35MPH is about 52MPH. The truck got a bunch of metal work and a new bed. I also picked up a v8 for the engine swap. I got an appropriate 6 lug 12 bolt rear end that I rebuilt to match the 6 lug front. No more mismatched wheels and tires. Speaking of which, that will be my next bridge to cross.
I have a few videos up of putting the bed rails together. I think this will be the new format for me. I plan on making a video at least once a week on my projects.
Well I figured this would be the best place to gather my thoughts on my build.