The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed Bedwood Coating?

Looking for any recent info on coating(s) for a wood bed. My ‘47 AD 1/2 ton is awaiting an oak bed from Mar-k. I don’t want to paint the bedwood.
I’ve read the articles here, elsewhere on the net and on the Mar-k web site. I’ve done a lot of wood working so I’m familiar with spar varnish etc. The truck will sit outside but see winter storage.
Realizing there are many proven approaches, they all ultimately fail. Many posts of the proven techniques date back a few years also. So I’m torn between old proven practices and something that be more modern and more durable.
I’m leaning toward an auto clear coat type finish over a light stain/clear wood. With the MANY approaches, I'm wondering if there are updated experiences/tests that are using multiple auto clear coats on all 6 sides? I wonder if Mar-k has experimented with this covering?
“Any pearls of wisdom” you can share would certainly help me and others! Thanks.

http://www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/instructions/2007finalwoodtest.pdf

As you pointed out, all finishes failed. except for the exterior house paint over POR.
http://www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/instructions/2010woodtestupdate.pdf

Otherwise, as much as possible, keep the truck/bed out of the rain, snow, and sun.

It will be interesting to see if anyone posts more recent tests than Mar-K's.

I want my '54's bed wood to look original - semi-dull black.
I will try a mixture coal oil and stove black - reapplied regularly until I am gone.

Jim Carter's article on bed wood finish.

It is understandable that you might might to show the color/grain of better/different wood.

Ok after owning and operating a paint business for 40 yrs. just a couple cents of thought! Sun and weather is the enemy of wood, steel ect. One job was spray painting a banked barn with linseed oil and red "oil" base enamel! With many barns under my belt latex paint faded quickly, just oil base took longer to fade but the linseed oil base paint lasted the longest very slow drying time tho. Now my 59 truck bed oak wood I stained then applied 4 coats of Marine varnish to the top the secret for me was to be patient for the varnish to completely dry before sanding between coats. Everybody that sees the bed just goes nuts many, many remarks how beautiful it is. It will be stored inside specially winter time.
Now my 20 ft. trailer I use to haul my tractor on an old farm boy trick that was taught to me I use hydraulic oil mixed with paint thinner, brush and roll it on!. The trailer sits outside 24-7 and am very pleased how it has maintained itself. Yes, I am retired so I will do this process more often!

Pops

Pops,
Say that again and with pictures. Hyd oil and thinner?
I am thinking my K10 will have rough sawn oak planks and I was thinking of an oil or semitransparent stain. I dont want a finished look. How does the hyd oil set up and what color does it turn?

47Jim, you probably read our tests from 2005. At that time we did test two samples with epoxy seal coat and automotive clear topcoat. They held up fairly well but showed failure starting a little less than a year outdoors 24/7. A down side of automotive clear is that it goes on water clear and does not change the color of the wood at all. As noted, many prefer the warmer slightly amber color of furniture natural finishes. Of course a truck that does not sit outdoors all the time will likely have a much longer life before wood finish failure. The oak bed wood finished with Helmsman that was in our showroom for 25 years still looked great. It was never outdoors.

We will be presenting additional test results on finishes soon. Stay tuned

Mar-Ktech

Hambone: Actually I would go take a picture but it is covered with snow now. Not worried about the bed at all. It does turn it a little bit darker try a test piece for yourself. The hyd oil with thinner makes it soak deeper into the wood for me it doesn't sit on top so the thinning of oil soaks better! I was worried at first that it would be slick but it was not. Greatest thing water does not soak into it. Sun will dry it a little but that is why I plan on doing it about every 3 years. I live in a farming community all the guys do it and after haveing to replace a trailer that had painted floor and it rotted out the new trailer will be taken care of right! If you want it darker put a little bit dark oil penetrating stain with it. Appreciate you using rough sawn oak that is class. Now take care of it! Mixture I used was a qt.of thinner to a gallon of oil!

Pops

Thanks Pops. I will get it a test.

Now that's an interesting approach. I just got a 66 c10 for my 16 daughter and we'll be replacing the bed wood in it. I'll run the hyd oil (and thinner) idea by her. Seems simple and more effective. Appreciate the info Pops.

Your welcome Shane good luck with your build and happy trucking for your daughter! Building the 59 my last hurrah for my 45 yr. old Son and grandson! Great memories for all of us!

Pops

Pops, hope you don't mind another question or two about your hyd. oil wood treatment. How long does this mixture take to dry or at least before it can be handled? Do you reccomend just one coat? If the truck is parked inside and only sees occasional rain, how often would you expect it to need a re-coat.
I am really a urethane guy but just re-did the oak sides on my '46 and it was a ton of work. I would not look forward to having to take apart a my one ton pickup bed and re-doing it.....

I have a test piece working. 2 coats so far. Looks nice. 2nd coat stayed oily (a little bit on finger fips) after a few days. I have it in the sun since. I plan to put another coat on. I will bring the piece to homecoming.

Bill,
After talking to a few people, I used linseed oil. I was told to apply it as needed when boards looked dry. I think it looks good!

Thanks Chris. Definitely an option.
HB, did you add stain to it?

Considering I'm not allowed to restore this truck, both of these are options for the bed!

Bill, I was told to apply the oil whenever its dry, aboutveveryv2 years