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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 44
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 44
Hi friends:

The service manual says the adjustment for a '49 3100 front axle stock ball bearings is to torque the nut to 33 foot pounds and back off a 12th of a turn. Well long before you can get close to 33 foot pounds, the bearing gets completely locked up! It is obviously WAY TOO MUCH TORQUE! To take the play out of the bearing it really requires very little torque.

Therefore, how have you found is the correct way to adjust these bearings?

Best regards,

Joe
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'49 3100 "Sweet Caroline" because the truck has fabulous curves .... like Caroline!
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W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Jun 2004
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I have always adjusted them just enough to take out the play. Then a little more if necessary to line up the cotter pin holes. Draw them down snug at first to make sure they are seated.
I have been doing it this way for 65 years & have never lost any.
George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,609
You torque the ball bearings in to the specified torque to seat the balls into the race and put a slight preload on the bearing cages. Once torqued in you back off a flat on the nut, sometimes a little bit more is required, but you do need some amount of pressure on them if you want good service life.

Btw, 33 pounds is a pretty standard figure, including passenger cars up through the early 60s when most changed over to tapered bearings.

Last edited by Dragsix; 03/13/2019 5:38 PM.

Mike
Joined: Nov 2018
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D
Awesome Grandpa
Awesome Grandpa
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I just completed this same task on my 1954 3100.....torqued the axle nut slowly while rotating the wheel, then backed off per the manual.
Worked great.


Joined: Mar 2010
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5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Torquing down the wheel bearings down to 33 foot pounds will not harm a thing. The races and ball bearings are as hard as woodpecker lips. Nowhere does it say to spin it once you torque it down to 33 foot pounds. That would probably be a bad idea. The manual instructs to back it off no less that 1/12th turn, or no more than 1/6th turn, depending on how the spindle hole ends up in comparison to the castle nut gaps.
Any method other than the one in the book may result in either too tight or too loose wheel bearings.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
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Originally Posted by darthintel
I just completed this same task on my 1954 3100.....torqued the axle nut slowly while rotating the wheel, then backed off per the manual.
Worked great.

Which manual?
What page number?

Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,609
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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In the 57 manual it’s section 3-6 under wheel bearing adjustment. There are four instructions, the second instruction directs that “on all except 2 1/2 ton models, tighten spindle nut to 33 ft. Lbs. torque while rotating hub. On 2 1/2 ton models, tighten spindle nut to 55 ft. Lbs. while rotating hub.” The third section is for backing off the nut. Ball bearings, back off spindle nut until alignment with nearest hole in spindle is obtained, then install cotter pin. Tapered bearings, back off 1/16 turn minimum


Mike
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
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