The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 1954 Chev 3100 Wiring Diagram

Hello all,
I'm getting ready to re-wire my 1954 Chev 3100 truck, and created a wiring diagram to follow.
See the attached picture.
I'm open to all critiques.

Thanks, dartintel

Here are some on-line diagrams:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/electrical/wiring/pdf/54truck.pdf
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/electrical/wiring/pdf/54truckwiring.pdf

I think you’re showing lots of fuses in the the turn signal wiring. Usually just the main power to signal switch is fused, and brake lights fused separately from signal switch.

I Haven’t looked in detail over the rest of it, compared to original, or evaluated wire color codes and common turn signal details.

A couple other comments, I would suggest nothing between the battery and the ammeter except a fusible link. You show the power for wipers, horn, flasher connected to the battery side of the ammeter, meaning not only will they always be connected to power, but also the ammeter will indicate the current going to them from the alternator. Generally the ammeter only is to indicate charging current, not accessories current. If you are concerned with running that accessory current through the ignition switch, just add one or two relays to carry that power.

I don't know what horn you are using, most only have one power wire going to the horn and the horn relay switches that power. The horn is grounded at its attachment to the truck.

Are you going to add switches to light the dome light when you open the doors?

To each his own, I don't see anything that won't work, just a little unusual. Be sure to place a fusible link between the battery and the ammeter.

Thanks for the feedback. I initially didn't have any fuses coming from the turn signal wiring going to the tail lights or parking lights, and only had the power to the flasher fused. It didn't look right not having any of the turn signal outputs from the switch fused, so I changed it. If it's common practice to not fuse the turn signal outputs, that's good to know.
I don't understand the comment that brake lights are fused separately from signal switch.
The brake light switch is fused feeding the turn signal unit-and also the outputs fused.

I wired the wipers and dome light and horn hot all the time, as I want the ability to turn on the dome light, wipers, and honk the horn independent of the ignition switch. Also - I want to be able to see charge / discharge current on the ammeter from all the accessories. Don't you want to be able to see the overall health of the charging circuit including drain from all accessories? This is how the original wiring diagram shows it.
Do I need to move the power feed to dome light, horn, and wipers to the other side of the ammeter?
Fusible link is a good idea between the battery and ammeter.

Good point on the horn - I will switch the power with the relay going to the horn.
I'm not adding switches to the doors for the dome light. Only using the dome light switch.

I also forgot to wire up the high beam indicator lamp.

I made some changes .....

It has homemade non-standard symbols...... and has been pointed out as having mistakes. Also the horn relay still seems to be shown wrong. You show a steering wheel on a wiring diagram. You have arrows going up and down on the end of the "turn signal box". You have 25 fuses for a simple old truck and show no connectors. Too many things to list.

It is a good idea to see if you can draw a schematic or wiring diagram just for fun. You can check it against the known literature.
I have wired many trucks and always refer to the books.
Please take this with a grain of salt. I don't mean any harm. It is hard to critique without listing errors. It is also necessary in this case to ask why. Sorry for the time saving directness.

darthintel, just to be clear, in your initial post you asked for critiques. With this bunch you should expect to get just that. The Staff appreciates everyone keeping this civil. You put a lot of thought into your presentation and even though it is thought by some to be overkill, it is yours not theirs. The possibility exists that someone could find helpful ideas by looking at it. Continue to post your “out of the box ideas” making sure to designate each as “Non-factory Correct”. Help, no matter how off the wall it may be, is appreciated.🛠

Hello Martin,
A really appreciate all the feedback. I should have been more descriptive as to the purpose of my schematic.

Disclaimers:
Yes - It's my own diagram and doesn't follow conventional schematic rules
Yes - It's just for fun to make it my own.
Yes - it contains fun images for accessories.
Yes - I've kind of followed the original color codes, but not in all cases.
No - I'm not creating this to replace the original schematic.
Yes - I enjoy drawing for fun.
Yes - I value all feedback
I've attached my latest wiring diagram for others to look at and let me know if I've made any major mistakes.
Thank you!

Martin,

I appreciate the quality and clarity of your work.

If you are using a flexible CAD program, consider changing the wire colors to the original colors for original circuits?

Very nice work you have done.

Look at Bartamos’s critique for correction of errors (such as the original horn circuit).

I first noticed that the ground for the headlights was barely noticeable. Typically, the ground symbol (arrow consisting of lines) is pointed down. A little longer "wire" would help that stand out.

Hello all,
My screen name is Darthintel. My real name is Rick Mathews
Thanks for the feedback. I'll rotate the ground symbols to the correct way and darken them up.
I have followed the standard wiring colors for most of the circuits - and will double check that.
I corrected the horn circuit / relay, and also added 2 headlight relays.
No - there's no speakers shown connected to the stereo and AMP - I can add them.
Everything is very easy to correct.

Maybe just an oversight, but be sure you don't ground the coil as shown, it must be connected to the points in your distributor. The alternator present may indicate you have 12 volt system, so you have to include a ballast resistor and the wiring to bypass it when starting.

Don't worry about people concerned by non-standard symbols. Even the acclaimed American Autowire instructions utilize mostly non-standard diagrams and sideways grounding symbols.

There are plenty of good reasons to design and build your own wiring system. I have wired several modified vehicles from scratch and never used a stock harness. Its the best way to make improvements that were never included in the original wiring, such as adequate fuses, control relays for headlights and brake lights, trailer brake controller wiring, headlight reminder, alarm and security systems, turn signals, stereo system, AC systems, and such that many of us appreciate. It is a lot better to develop those circuits on paper before you start than to patch into a stock circuit later. Just use good design practice and proper techniques in building the harness.

I have never used a "stock harness" either and that would be the easiest thing to wire up. I have used harnesses with improvements like fuse panels and etc. I have always followed their instructions while factoring in the original diagram. The diagram posted is the style that the instructions will have. It is not the style of the GM truck Manual. He is trying to recreate an instruction style sheet.

If you go to the American Autowire website, enter 1954 Chevy truck/Highway 15 nostalgia classic kit/instructions..
You can choose any vehicle and they have all the instruction online, in this example just scroll back and forth to see the entire instructions which are professionally done in instruction style and CORRECT! What's the point of having us check it so that it matches that AAW diagram?... or similar Diagram?

Thanks for the wiring instructions bartamos - I'll reference that diagram to check my own.

Paying $1000 for a wiring harness is not going to happen when I can purchase all the materials for 1/10 of the cost and enjoy every minute
pulling out the old wiring and wiring it myself!

Let us know when you actually begin the wiring effort. We will help.

Ok - based upon all the feedback and research, MY updated wiring diagram is attached.

Again, I'm doing this for my own enjoyment - as a colored diagram is useful to me.
I know if you purchase a kit a wiring diagram is included, but, I'm building my own.

Please keep the conversation on topic and civil. thank you.

I made a few changes. Now time to start the wiring fun!

Suggestion about your Sound system.

Instead of using two, 2 channel power amps you could use one 4 channel power amp.
Configure the 2 front channels to run full range or midrange and high frequencies.
Configure the 2 rear channels into 1 mono (L/R bridged) channel to run low frequencies (subwoofer).

If your head unit has subwoofer pre-amp outputs, the low frequencies and gain can be controlled from the head unit.
The head units subwoofer pre-amp outputs are connected to the 1 mono (L/R bridged) channel amp inputs.

Most multichannel amps also have gain and frequencies control built into the amp. Check 2nd pic
It really doesn't matter what 2 channels are bridged mono, front or rear.

By do it this way, you only need to mount one amp, (one amp uses less space), power amp power and line level wiring is reduced.
And less ground loops and alternator noise in the sound system.

Tip: if possible connect all sound system power and grounds coming from one single point.
i.e. grounds from head unit and power amp should be connected to the chassis at the same location.
Same should be done with head unit and power amp power connections.

Personally myself, I like listening to the truck when I drive, that way I can hear if something goes bang and breaks.

xfiles

Jorb,
Thanks for the amplifier information. I will take this into consideration. A stereo in the truck will be on the "B" list of priorities.

Darthinel, very nice job on the diagram; I especially like the true-to-life symbols for things like the coil, fans, etc.

I have a 56 GMC 100 which I am rewiring and have a question for all about an abbreviation found on the wire for the temperature sending unit mounted on the engine block. The schematic shows "18 F - (H.W.)" for the wire going from the engine mounted sending unit to the temperature gauge.

Does anyone have an idea what "H.W." stands for? It is the only wire on the schematic with that abbreviation.

I'm starting the re-wiring process now. Made a quick wire roll holder out of 1/2" PVC pipe....

interesting contraption. Please post pix as your progress through your project.