1950 Chevy 3100. One piece glass windows. Driver door had cracked glass and window crank spines were smooth. Passenger glass wasn't cracked but it was separating.
Bought new glass, new driver regulator from Ecklers, got new rollers for passenger side too. Bought new window channels and cleaned up and painted window frames.
Installed new regulator and put new rollers on passenger side. Got new bolts too because clutch heads were worn out. Installed both windows and they roll up and down great. Very smooth but they both stop at the same spot just shy of fitting into top of channel.
I know you can get a small amount of adjustment and both are at the max and screws are tightened. If I detach the windows from the regulators I can easily push them up the rest of the way.
I was going to point blame at a reproduction regulator but that wouldn’t make sense since the right side is original and has the same issue. Have you compared the new glass to the original? Nothing would surprise me regarding aftermarket “original” reproduction parts. I’ve been bitten a few times. The glass could be cut incorrectly.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Loosen the bolts which hold the regulator to the door. These would be the ones for the slotted holes in the inner door metal. Roll the window up and manually work the glass in the fully up position. While holding the glass all the way up with the crank handle, tighten the bolts. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Glass is good because it fit back into the frames. I'll loosen them and try again but I messed with the slotted bolt holes and that is what I have maxed out. Would it make a difference if the slots were enlarged?
Glass is good because it fit back into the frames. I'll loosen them and try again but I messed with the slotted bolt holes and that is what I have maxed out. Would it make a difference if the slots were enlarged?
Since you have aftermarket regulators, you might need to lengthen the curved slots in the inner door panel to make it work.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
...can't say it enough. Be sure to check the pattern of the glass. Been there myself and found the glass was not cut true and the more I rolled it up the more it binded. A new cut glass, free of charge, fixed the problem. Just saying...check...double check.
Your window channel looks like it doesn't fit very well. Did you try to raise the windows without the channels in place to see if they go to the top? Is the window binding at the rear of the door?
On my 52 the door window "frame" is not straight up.....it does have a small angle to it if you look at them. When the glass shop cut mine they evidently let the pattern slip just enough that it was not at the same slant. The more I rolled it up the tighter it got. Maybe this explains what i was trying to say. Stand back and look at the door!
I tried to loosen up all the bolts and try again. Same results for the most part, went up just a tiny bit. If I disconnect the window from the regulator, I can very easily push it up the rest of the way. No binding at all.
I know this is an old conversation, but I have just done same project on my 50 truck. Was pleased with myself getting new channel in, window in, rolled al the way up. All seemed well until I rolled window down all the way and window then wants to jump out of the felt channel. ?? Did I cut the channel too short?
Sounds like the metal channel which the felt channel rides in has come loose. The front one in spot welded to the leading end of the door and to a bracket at the bottom, inside the door. The rear one is held on by 2 screws at the bottom of the trailing end of the door, and one screw at the top, inside of the door which is "fun" to get to.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Old thread but just to add something I noticed. The new regulator hits the door when trying to roll all the way up. I think a bit of cutting/grinding should solve it.
Hey there! I recently faced a similar issue with my old truck's windows. It's awesome that you've been putting in the work to restore your 1950 Chevy 3100 — sounds like a fantastic project! From what I understand, your windows are stopping just shy of fitting into the top of the channel. It seems like you've tried adjusting the regulators and the screws, but still no luck. Have you considered checking the window stops? Sometimes, they might need to be adjusted or replaced to allow the window to go up all the way. It's also worth looking at whether the window channels are installed correctly. Oh, speaking of windows, I got some great window sunshades for my car at https://snapshades.com/ Good luck with your restoration! Keep us updated on your progress.
