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#1301891 03/06/2019 4:03 AM
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I was wondering if any of y'all have purchased LMC Rally truck wheels?

I bought a set of four for my 1965 Chevy C10. They fit great, painted them, then just had tires mounted and they look awesome. So, I set them up on the studs and it looks like the studs are too short. I pulled the rim off and flipped it around to have a look at the back (the mounting surface). Hope I can describe this so y'all can understand.

The inner hole on the wheel has a lip that turns in toward the mounting surface, in this case the drum. Past the ring where the wheel studs go through the six holes, is another area that sticks down, the same amount as the inner lip. It makes a channel where the six holes are located. This part of the rim does not touch the brake drum.

I'm going to contact LMC tomorrow, but was wondering if y'all have seen anything like this.
Attachments
C10-Rim.jpg (30.1 KB, 336 downloads)
C10-Lug-nuts.jpg (52.65 KB, 333 downloads)

Last edited by Larry's65; 03/06/2019 4:17 AM.
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Gord 🇨🇦
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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That type of mounting surface (held away from the drums a bit) helps keep the wheel lugs tight, using the springiness of the steel. Maybe you just need longer lug studs.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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maybe the picture is deceiving, but those studs look really short...

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Hi Larry, I have the exact wheels for my 48’ and I have the exact same issue. Mine hits on the rounded edge on the inside of the wheel just like yours. I have contemplated removing the rear axles to have longer studs pressed in, (and on the front as well) but then decided to look for the proper rims. Well neither solution is cheap or easy so I’ve moved on to other issues that need addressing hoping that some rims would fall into my lap while part searching for other issues. Anyway please post what LMC says as I am very interested as well.

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** The first thing I would do is verify that I'm trying to use the correct lug nuts. I had this same problem years ago "Guess What" I had the wrong lug nuts. **

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Originally Posted by marzach
** The first thing I would do is verify that I'm trying to use the correct lug nuts. I had this same problem years ago "Guess What" I had the wrong lug nuts. **

I do wonder about the lug nuts. The studs come up about halfway through the lug nuts when tightened and if the lug nuts weren't so deep, I think they might look okay.

All the rims are the same and since I painted them before I had the tires mounted, the installers couldn't have done anything to mess them up.

I haven't called LMC yet, on t he to do list.

Last edited by Larry's65; 03/06/2019 8:10 PM.
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Originally Posted by klhansen
That type of mounting surface (held away from the drums a bit) helps keep the wheel lugs tight, using the springiness of the steel. Maybe you just need longer lug studs.


Interesting. I kinda figured this wasn't an actual production problem and what you say makes sense. I think maybe LMC should give you a heads up on the possibility of needing longer wheel studs, but we will see what they have to say.

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LMC couldn't answer the question right away, but forwarded the question to their tech staff and I should hear something back by Friday. I'll let y'all know what they have to say.

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It looks like you bought the primed version at LMC. Looks like you paid about $440 plus shipping for them. These are nowhere near an actual GM 15 x 8, 6 lug on 5.5 bolt circle,10 slot, genuine Rally wheel. The GM center hole lip turns outwards and the back side has smooth rings that allow for a nice flat fit with standard truck studs. They also have three tapped holes for caps. If it's not a GM Truck Rally, It's not a Rally wheel. Many people call lots of wheels "Rally". Most of the time it's a scam word. It means nothing.
You can buy a set of these real Rally's, in good condition, for same or less $$ from Ebay or Craigslist. Sometimes you get trim rings and caps. I would recommend that if LMC offers, that you send them back ASAP. Truck Rally's didn't come out till 67, so they may have you there on the stud length. Your studs look extremely short, like there is something you are not telling us.

Genuine GM 6 lug Truck Rally's are VERY carefully NOT reproduced.

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These easiest solution may be to change the lug nuts. That way you could keep your current wheels and wouldn't need to install new studs. It looks like you are using the conical seat "acorn" style lug nuts; could it be that you need the shank style lug nuts that go farther down inside the wheel holes?

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Better google "Hub centric vs Lug centric"..... that wheel may not stay tight fo' schizzle.

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Originally Posted by bartamos
It looks like you bought the primed version at LMC. Looks like you paid about $440 plus shipping for them. These are nowhere near an actual GM 15 x 8, 6 lug on 5.5 bolt circle,10 slot, genuine Rally wheel. The GM center hole lip turns outwards and the back side has smooth rings that allow for a nice flat fit with standard truck studs. They also have three tapped holes for caps. If it's not a GM Truck Rally, It's not a Rally wheel. Many people call lots of wheels "Rally". Most of the time it's a scam word. It means nothing.
You can buy a set of these real Rally's, in good condition, for same or less $$ from Ebay or Craigslist. Sometimes you get trim rings and caps. I would recommend that if LMC offers, that you send them back ASAP. Truck Rally's didn't come out till 67, so they may have you there on the stud length. Your studs look extremely short, like there is something you are not telling us.

Genuine GM 6 lug Truck Rally's are VERY carefully NOT reproduced.

So I'm definitely not hiding anything. Why would I do that? Sure they may not be genuine Rally wheels, but that's what LMC called them, so I used the name for reference. I'm building a tribute truck, not original.

I did some measuring and found something interesting. The rear studs are 3/4" long, from the face of the brake drum. The front studs are 1" long from the surface of the brake drum, so 1/4" longer.

The lug lugnuts I purchased at a local auto place are 3/4" long. I counted turns when tightening the lugnuts and they turn 8 revolutions. I didn't have time to see how far in parts of an inch that is.

It's interesting that the front lugs are 1/4" longer, but maybe that's normal, I don't know. At this point, still waiting to hear from LMC, but thinking this is going to be different lugnuts or longer studs at least in the rear.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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What is your tribute truck in recognition of, Larry?

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Sorry, kind if a joke. Just saying maybe a modification was made to rear differential or front drums (non stock). Something done by a PO or something not stated. Forgot to tell us, that's all. It happens all the time.
The Rally info was for everyone who reads the post in years to come.

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by Larry's65
The lug lugnuts I purchased at a local auto place are 3/4" long. I counted turns when tightening the lugnuts and they turn 8 revolutions. I didn't have time to see how far in parts of an inch that is.
Supposedly, threaded fasteners develop full strength with three full threads engaged (3 turns of the nut). But when It comes to holding wheels on, I'd sure like to see the stud come out the back side of the nut. Flanged pipe connections use that criteria.
Seeing one of your wheels pass you going down the road is a bad thing. frown


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Originally Posted by tclederman
What is your tribute truck in recognition of, Larry?

So, okay, I know y'all are going to laugh, but I'm not proud so here goes. My daughter and I became real close reading and watching the movies that featured this truck. I even used my writing talent to write spinoff series of six books.

Then, I spent two years tracking down the original truck and came so very close to owning it. Unfortunately for me, the current owner decided not to sell. For her it was definitely the right decision since beside the movies, it held a special personal meaning. I'm 65 years old, and realized I probably was never going to own the original so I went looking. I couldn't find a local 1963 longed and my kids eventually convinced me I probably shouldn't own a longed since I plan on driving this until I can't... drive, lol. I found a nice 1965 shorted C10 just 15 minutes from my house. So, I bought it and started to get it like I wanted. Unfortunately, it needs more that I thought, but I am close to realizing my 1965 tribute truck to the 1963 longed C10 from the TWILIGHT movie.

You can stop laughing now, lol.

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What is the Twilight movie?

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Let’s stay on topic please.


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I still haven't heard from LMC although I got an email that said they tried to get a hold of me and couldn't. They didn't. Unfortunately, I've been busy w with the weather turning warmer and haven't had a chance to call them.

Thought I was already to take the first cautious ride in the truck, but when I put it in gear, it wouldn't move. It has a TH 350 and I'm hoping its just low on transmission fluid. My wife is going to help me check the linkage, but I'm pretty sure it works. It does at least as far as Park and neutral.


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