Okay so this engine is doing my head in. I rebuilt the stock carb, and that would allow the engine to run fast for 5 seconds and then die. Mind you during those 5 seconds it was running strong with sputtering or anything else. Basically it was dumping so much fuel into the intake it was flooding the engine out. I admitted my own failure and got a rebuilt carb. With the rebuilt installed it will start and run at a low rpm and then die. At this point I have no idea what the heck is going on. The fuel tank is a clean 5 gal fuel can with all new fuel lines except for the one leading from the pump to the carb. However I flushed that line and have a filter between it and the carb to keep anything I may have missed during the flush out of the carb itself. Below is a vid of it running with the first carb that was flooding it out.
After it died with the rebuilt carb I looked into the carb itself opened the throttle and it sprayed a jet of fuel into the intake like it was supposed to so I know the carb is full of fuel. The electrical system is all new as well, plugs, wires, condenser, points, coil. I am really at a loss as to why this engine will not run.
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So, if you absolutely know the fuel pump is good then move on to other causes. I might speculate that you have a defective condenser. Runs til it gets a little heat build up then fails. Unless you got NOS points, condenser and coil I wouldn’t trust them as far as I could throw them.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
In listening to engine turning over, it sounds like the timing is off. Sounds like it's advanced too much. Could be a weak battery but I recommend that you get #1 cylinder on TDC on compression stroke, make sure the BB on the flywheel is centered on the pointer in the timing hole, then static time the distributor to where the points "just" open at that point. You can use a light or disconnect the distributor wire and an Ohm meter.
Then make sure all bolts at the carb and intake manifold are good and tight. Not gorilla tight, wrist tight.
Agree with Dave, plus check the point gap and firing order just for grins
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Check or replace the wire between the coil and the distributor. When the dizzy moves from the vacuum advance operating, there could be broken strands inside the wire that interrupt the primary current from the coil to the points. I like to use high-flex wire like voltmeter leads are made from. Jerry
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