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I have a 54 6100 with the original 235. What weight does everyone use and get it in HD or non HD?

JMO, use whatever you are comfortable with but remember to change it regularly. These engines were not made to run in excess of 2000-3000 miles between changes. Good oil and regular maintenance will keep you going a long time.

I run 10W-40 detergent in my 50 216, and I probably change it too often, but it seems to be working great. Keeps getting cleaner with every oil change too. I changed it 3 times last summer with the 200 miles I've put on it after firing it up, after a 15 year nap.

The owners manual actually suggests running detergent oil.

I usually use Valvoline motor oil but the only HD that I can find that they have says diesel. Does anybody use diesel rated oil?

I figure pretty much any modern oil is far superior to what they had available back then. They specified pretty light oil too, which would not show much, if any oil pressure, but it's good for flow.

1954 Chevrolet Trucks oil specifications/recommendations (taken from a Chevrolet service news “bulletin” - not from the Shop Manual or from the Owner/Operator Manuals) : http://1954advance-design.com/Photos/1954OilChart.JPG

I use the multi-grade recommendation: 10W-30 (or, 15W-40).

You might consider a zinc additive with your oil. The newest motor oils have reduced zinc content to prevent catalytic converter fouling, to the point that the new oils would not be suitable for engines with the flat lifters.

It is better to use an engine oil formulated with enough antiwear additives than to brew one yourself. Modern multi-grade oils have much better viscosity indexes (ie, are better at not thinning out with increasing temperature) than those that were available back in 1954. Engines need oil flow and oil pressure is a characteristic of flow so I would very careful about using a thicker oil than was originally spec'd. Heavy duty engine oils have higher levels of ZDDP (up to 1200 ppm of phosphorus) than Starburst gasoline engine oils (up to 800 ppm of P). However dual-rated 30-grade HDEO (ie, API CK-4/SN) are limited to 800 ppm of phosphorus. Phosphorus is the antiwear component of ZDDP. According to Bob Olree (GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group), high levels of ZDDP are unnecessary for oem-style flat-tappet valve trains. See Engine Oil Myths - GM TechLink and Engine Wear

I like Petro-Canada Duron SHP 10W-30 because it uses the same additive package of the 15W-40 grade that is approved for API CK-4/SN.

fraso, interesting info. I traditionally run Delo 15w40 in my original 50k mile 216. I like how it quietens things down, My one concern is high viscosity/slow flow when the temps get below 30F. I do realize there are better additive packages available but so far so good I guess. Now if a readily available US version of Petro-Canada Duron SHP 10W-30 existed I'd be a buyer.

I use Delo 15/40 diesel oil in all my older cars and trucks. The manufacturers have taken most of the extreme pressure lubricates out of it like zinc for the cat converters. Delo replaced the zinc with moly. Not as good. Thus roller rockers. I heard Rotella still has some. I use an additive from Lucas oil to replace the zinc for the flat lifters which is where most of your wear will occur. But that’s me.

DELO 15W-40 has a lot less moly than it used to. I do oil analysis on my F250 on occasion and it went from 95-96 ppm back in 2017 to 2 ppm on my latest change (I can't believe the moly suddenly got "used up").
Zinc and phosphorus were both cut by about 20% back in 2018, IIRC with the introduction of the CK4 spec.
But it's still OK. My diesel hasn't exploded yet. I think 15W-40 is a bit thick overall for a stovebolt. Chevron (DELO) also has single viscosity oils as well as 10W-30 multi-vis, but the 10W-30 is a bit harder to find.

A couple of old manuals I have around the house state SAE 30. Prior to engine rebuilds I have used non detergent SAE 30 from the local Tractor Supply just to get engines started and to putt around the block to establish that things work.

The oil of choice around these parts seems to be Shell Rotella T4 15W40, although marketed as a diesel oil a lot of local guys (myself included) use it for flat tappet stuff because of the higher ZDDP content. Last I heard it was running somewhere in the 1200 ppm zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorus range. I have been running this in my truck since a basic rebuild, in my 235 since its full rebuild, as well as my brothers classic Fiat with no ill effects, however I have never sent any samples off for analysis so my experience is purely anecdotal.

It's API rating is SM for gasoline (recommended for 2010 and older) and CK-4 for diesel; which taken from the API's website: "API Service Category CK-4 describes oils for use in high-speed four-stroke cycle diesel engines designed to meet 2017 model year on-highway and Tier 4 non-road exhaust emission standards as well as for previous model year diesel engines. These oils are formulated for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 500 ppm (0.05% by weight). However, the use of these oils with greater than 15 ppm (0.0015% by weight) sulfur fuel may impact exhaust after treatment system durability and/or oil drain interval. These oils are especially effective at sustaining emission control system durability where particulate filters and other advanced after treatment systems are used. API CK-4 oils are designed to provide enhanced protection against oil oxidation, viscosity loss due to shear, and oil aeration as well as protection against catalyst poisoning, particulate filter blocking, engine wear, piston deposits, degradation of low- and high-temperature properties, and soot-related viscosity increase. API CK-4 oils exceed the performance criteria of API CJ-4, CI-4 with CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, and CH-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories. When using CK-4 oil with higher than 15 ppm sulfur fuel, consult the engine manufacturer for service interval recommendations."

The only two issues I have come across are that if for some reason you are running catalytic converters (which none of mine are), it has a tendency to gum these up due to the higher zinc and phosphorus; and second, be prepared for slower cranking in extreme cold.

To each their own, in the end it is most likely all snake-oil anyways. Justhorsenaround hit the nail on the head with "Good oil and regular maintenance will keep you going a long time."

Well said.
Oil debates are numerous on many forums. Everyone has their favorite.
Like Martin said, it needs to be good oil, and not necessarily the "best" (whatever that means).