The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop what heads would ya go with???

ok - I've been working on finding a block (either 350 I can stroke, or 400). well I found 2 complete blocks I can get, a 2 peice, and a 1 piece rear main for $50 (I get both 350 bocks for $50 so I will pick them both up).

now - I was going to get some after market heads, but he's got the following heads also;

tell me what direction you would go? I can bare vortec's - $50, camel back heads - $100, 305 heads with the following modifications; ported and polished, screw in studs with guide plates, new valves & springs (was running a cam with 280 lift) - $150.

I'm kind of leaning towards picking up the 305 heads. for $150 it would get the rest of this hotrod a lot further underway for a minimal expense, and can always be changed later if I'm not happy.

forgot to mention that 305 heads have 1.94 valves too.

Keep in mind the vortec's require a special intake.

yea - I know I'm running vortec's on my 89 blazer.

Just a quick comment if you don't mind, Solo. The two options which seem most practical would be the reman. 305 heads, or the camel-humps. The dollars sound good on both, but a couple things you might consider; first, what's the condition of both sets of heads? Those camal humps are an older design, as such you may run into corrosion damage or structural cracks. What is the quality of the rebuilt 305 heads? Were they built by a known reputable shop? Was all the work performed that the seller claims? From a strength standpoint, you would probably be better off with the camel humps, they have thicker wall castings than the later model 305's. They also come with bigger valves and I believe larger, freeer flowing ports. Caveat Emptor, my friend-let the buyer beware. Make the most informed decision you can and you will be happier knowing you didn't get burned and have to make the same purchase twice. Hope this helps.

Regards,
Wannabe

well - I know the guy that I'm getting them from, and he's a fairly reputable individual. the 305 heads have under 15,000 miles on them, and are in very good shape. the quality of work is every bit what he says it is.

I'm planning on building a 307 for my next rod project (late 30's 4 door for a family traveler), and I'm kind of thinking about picking up these 305 heads. I'm going to put a carb on this, and then converting to FI after this thing is on the road.

that being the case I could change heads, and same these for my 307 when I get there.

the camel humps are first gen, and need completely rebuilt. the guy trades them to the machine shop for $100 worth of machine work. I can't imagine the camel hump heads saving me much $$$ which would be my motive for picking them up in the first place.

Solo,

I would take the 350's over the 400 too! You didn't say if the 350 blocks were 2-bolt or 4-bolt mains? Building a stroker motor then the 4-bolt is the only way to go! Also you need to be thinking about what the cc's are of those heads. You don't want too high a compression ratio so the bigger cc heads will help reduce the compression ratio. My choice of heads would be the 194 fulie heads but that will probably already put you up into the 10 or 11.5:1 compression ratio. I would spend the extra money since your building a stroker motor and wisely invest in the screw in studs and guide plates. Don't forget the fulies don't have provisions in the heads for brackets to bolt up...just something to keep in mind as an added cost for different brackets.

I believe there is one of each (1 2 bolt, and 1 4 bolt). I've heard a lot of debates on whether the 2 bolt or 4 bolt is stronger so I guess I'm not really convinced on which is stronger...

I'll have to take that up in a debate sometime. see who makes the most sense because it's been awhile so I don't remember both sides to that argument.

howziit guys!

if we're working with sbc 350's, i'd go for the block which would need less machine work.

for your intent and purpose, you don't NEED a 4-bolt block.

JMO, it would be nice, if you could have those 305 heads flow-rated.

you still need to take into consideration...a cam, compression ratio, intake, carb, convertor, gears, truck usage, rpm range, etc.

stock 305 heads have 58cc, which would raise compression about a half-point....unless more cc's were added with the custom headwork.

i GUESS you could try those 305 heads. i'd make sure cr wasn't more than 9-9.5:1.

You've got to build your bottom-end on paper before you choose heads. Deck height, piston design, gasket thickness, cam choice, desired fuel, RPM range, desired CR, power desired all play a factor in which heads to use.

I like the camel humps, they have good flowing ports, decent CRs, (double check that) and larger valves. However, Ive seen many a set of older Power-Pac heads (small valve 283-327) passed off as Camels. Check the casting numbers and valve size to verify. Have them magged for cracks. Some early Camel Humps don't have all bolt holes for belt-driven accessories, or you might have to use period-pieces to make it line up.

The 305s may boost the CR some, but check valve sizes, chamber design, bore spacing, before buying. Make sure ports haven't been 'hogged out' during porting.

Ive heard good things about the vortec and fast burn heads. The newer designs were computer modeled & designed, but I don't know how well they work with a carb.

The key to head selection is to know what they're going on. You can't just stick a set of heads on a motor and expect magic.

good luck

chip

thanks guys...

I think I'm going to try to pick the up the blocks, and the rearend from this guy. he's got a heavy duty T5 also, but I don't think it's right for this application.

I'm going to think awhile on heads before I make a decision.

howziit again guys!

saw your post at CT, missed that tidbit about stroking to 383.

in that case, the only reason i'd buy those modified 305 heads would be for your sbc307, or to sell for possible profit.

as for 383 heads, new 350 vortec heads would work for a truck-based project.

JMO, i wouldn't settle for anything less than these new heads, rpm intake, edelbrock 600 or OEM QJet, and your choice of cam, converter, etc.

BTW, i have these vortecs on my sbc327. for the $$ and potential, you can't beat them, and they run great on 87 octane.

I'll keep that in mind... grumpyvette found me a setup that runs the same (not torque etc - but works well with both) 882 heads, and AFR's. I'm considering very strongly using 882 initally, and then converting over to AFR's & FI after I've got this thing on the road.

wouldn't be a bad combination, or a bad way to go.