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#1297018 01/31/2019 12:39 PM
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How many of you out there prefer the hardened true patina look or faux patina look over say a custom base clear or even a single stage paint job?

Last edited by Apache1; 01/31/2019 12:40 PM.
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Neither. I like a "faux real" paint job, you feel me?

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I like the "patina" (mine's rustier than "patina", it's getting rough) on my running/driving truck better than the alternative of my truck being torn down in somebody's body shop for right now, but it will eventually get painted up nice. IMO, faux patina is rarely done well enough to be convincing, and seems like a massive waste of time versus just painting the thing. A survivor paint job with a light patina is nice, but I think the word is used too often on things that are aged and deteriorated beyond what "patina" originally meant.

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The patina trucks are bringing "BIG" money these days especially ones that are slammed. Ever time you fired up the tube lately some bunch is scuff'en them up and drop' em to the ground.

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Here...here...for PATINA!!!!!

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Patina is rust. Unrestored truck. Rat roddy. Lipstick on a...........

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Some like it - some don't. Matter of taste. What I really don't like is painting over rust. The rust has to be removed or it will bubble up under your new paint. How do the patina fans deal with that?


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
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Hot rod satin black single stage...looks correct on these old girls. After all they are trucks not '69 Chevelles.

Unrestored is a subjective term. There are allot of these trucks with a tremendous amount of custom work hidden under that "rust" wrapper. Frames, suspension, engines...etc.

They even have clear/satin urethanes now that completely encapsulate that "rust".



Last edited by Apache1; 01/31/2019 7:11 PM.
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Good look
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patina.jpg (32 KB, 174 downloads)

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Not my cup of tea. If it was originally supposed to be red with dark primer, it definitely doesn't look right. If it's the other way round (black over red?) the wear thru spots should be at the top of the fenders and hood to look natural, not at random spots. JMHO.

This is natural looking patina. Light blue over Orange over dark primer.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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I thought Patina was a belly dancers name. The black started out as a way for a non painter to get paint on a truck without having to make it look shinny and deep. Agree...Some trucks do have all the body work done and then flat black or satin. Some trucks are restored fully with that paint job. There is a small buyer pool for those.
As everyone knows, black is very hard to do. It needs a perfect body. Like Patina had.
I would probably leave an old paint job alone if it had nice original business graphics or Gov't emblems. That ain't patina. That's history/provenance.

Just my too sense.

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You can't encapsulate rust with paint. Maybe if the truck lives in the AZ desert it will be fine, but I know it doesn't work here!


Gord 🇨🇦
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1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
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I believe this dead horse has been kicked enough.

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So you ask what we all think and then you don't want to hear it? No problem.

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Wow...there sure are allot of sensitive people on this site. That's not at all what was said. Its was a figure of speech man. I posed the question threw it out there and it was quickly apparent a shiny coat of paint wins.

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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I'm not sensitive. Just expressed my opinion on the photo you posted. Whatever floats your boat works for me. I just wouldn't do it that way.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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I will not slam patina further. Thru in some humor. It's a look that is popular. It's a semi free country still.

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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Lol! Semi-free country. I gotta start using that!

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Back on topic. If a truck has faded paint with the undercoat showing though, real patina, I'm a fan. To me it speaks to a life well lived with all the bumps and wrinkles (and patina) that 40 or 50 or 60 plus years bring with it. If it's been updated in a non conspicuous non slammed way that's fine too.

Last edited by moparguy; 02/01/2019 1:39 AM.

1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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Two years ago, I decided to undertake a year long shot at body work then paint in my 20 by 24 garage. I am still having hammer and dolly dreams, once the body was straight, there was no doubt it was getting shiny urethane. It made no sense to me to go otherwise, stripping it down to bare metal and fixing dents is real work and friggen went on seems like forever too. Clear coating rusty patina is just plain lazy, I'm sorry.

Last edited by sstock; 02/01/2019 1:44 AM.

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
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Posts: 61
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I like the patina look, and I actually bought my truck because I thought it would be easier to hide my bad body work skills in a old paint job. I’m really not sure if mine is old or man made but I think it’s cool and easy to work on. I’ll try to post a pic but not sure how.
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3FC80283-1BA6-4D8D-9EFF-A1C4DB77EC4B.jpeg (376.04 KB, 212 downloads)

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Originally Posted by sstock
Two years ago, I decided to undertake a year long shot at body work then paint in my 20 by 24 garage. I am still having hammer and dolly dreams, once the body was straight, there was no doubt it was getting shiny urethane. It made no sense to me to go otherwise, stripping it down to bare metal and fixing dents is real work and friggen went on seems like forever too. Clear coating rusty patina is just plain lazy, I'm sorry.

Body work is worse than going to the dentist right after an IRS audit. The people who do it are worth every penny. But still charge too much.
I don't mind the weld patch work. That is kind of fun. But off dolly, on dolly, planishing, discing, sanding with 8 different grits, guide coat, primer filler, regular primer, epoxy primer, single stage, BC/CC, wet sand, polish...............I've had it with all that. I can't do it. What I think is smooth is actually crappy rough. I can't pay $15K so I go with this nice guy, good guy. Lots of body work and single stage PPG Omni. $4000. Pretty cheap.............................I got what I paid for.
I am bailing out, whatever is on the next truck when all else is ready for sale, I will call it patina. It's a good word for "paint it yourself". I'm sick of it I tell ya. Like SS says, it never gets done. The supplies cost a fortune. Dust everywhere. Serious lung problems. Block this, block that. What the [censored].

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Thanks Bart, I'm going to have flashbacks now. I didnt mind the old look so bad, I just had to get dents out and then it all starts, pandora's box has been opened.
Attachments
Chevy1.jpeg (51.39 KB, 199 downloads)
1272.JPG (406.92 KB, 195 downloads)

Last edited by sstock; 02/01/2019 2:18 AM.

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Posts: 9,830
LOL, I'm about neck deep in Pandora's box now. Nice rig, sstock (both before and after).


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,988
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That is really sharp. very nice. The "76" logo and matching truck color is something special. Love that. I see all the right touches, the black, the white bumpers, the stance/tires, the white hub caps........ they sell the "76" antenna topper balls. Many sellers on Ebay. You have to incorporate some somewhere. Bed roll ends, knobs, rear view mirror hanging like dice, map light, somewhere.........

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I have a '50 which looks original unless you crawl under it to see the T5 transmission and the Xterra rear end. It is a well-weathered old restoration with honest patina.
I also have a '49 which also looks original except for the 350transmission/400 transmission and the 12 bolt rear end. It has an amazing paint job on it and takes a lot of trophies at the car shows.
I cannot take either of them out on the road without horn honks, thumbs ups, and hollers.
The comments on the '50 old restoration are usually related to thanking me for not cutting it up or, "I want one like this one, not one that's too pretty to drive if it might rain."
Personally I do not like to drive the pretty one as much as the patina one. Too scared of scratching it. I do not deserve to have nice things. I am too ham handed.
P. S. I do not care for the faux patina. It doesn't make any sense to me. I say paint it or don't.
Carl

Last edited by 52Carl; 02/01/2019 4:12 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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If I painted it, I would not use it like a truck. Love it, the way it is. These shots show the most crunchiest parts of the rig. Everywhere else, it's just boring green - LOL
Attachments
IMG_0365.JPG (170.67 KB, 133 downloads)
IMG_0366.JPG (234.19 KB, 134 downloads)
IMG_0368.JPG (275.31 KB, 133 downloads)
IMG_0369.JPG (220.37 KB, 130 downloads)


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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i agree with not artificially creating a fake patina look
let it be natural or make it fully restored, no in between
attached photo of one of my 50 1 Ton's, it never been restored, only repaired
i love it to bits
-s
Attachments
Screen Shot 2019-02-01 at 3.43.31 PM.jpg (130.35 KB, 112 downloads)

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Nice Truck> a true workhorse

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I like original "survivors", real ones are exceptionally hard to find. I like nicely restored ones too, but can't afford 1. I'd rather not comment on getting excited about faux patina jobs, (semi-free country).
My 48-3609 survivor slide show.
Attachments
DSC02144 (1).JPG (474.18 KB, 103 downloads)
DSC02285.JPG (510.54 KB, 101 downloads)

Last edited by wrenchguy; 02/02/2019 1:43 AM.
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Sorry, but faux patina and rat rods are for those too lazy to do body work!! IMHO. Full restorations or restomods require a tremendous amount of work but it's worth it in the end.


Charlie

'51 3100 5-Window (Restomod in progress)
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Right on Charlie, I see it the exact same way.


1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration

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